Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

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Nov 23, 2006
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641
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Michigan
Do any of the H151 swap guys remember how much the cut out of the front driveshaft and how much they added to the rear one? I would like some reference numbers to compare with my measurements?
 
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Nov 23, 2006
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641
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Michigan
Finally got the LC put back down on the ground, its amazing how much smaller it looks now. I am so used to walking by it and having it be 8 feet tall!

Anyways down to business, the reason to set it down was to get an idea of the new required driveshaft length. The results are as follows, keep in mind these are done with a tape measure so expect +-1/16 inch variation. This was done t-case to diff flange.
  • Front Driveshaft Length 28 9/16
  • Rear Driveshaft Length 40 9/16
I also measured the original shafts and came up with rough measurements, not sure how the telescoping sections are effecting during installation.
  • Front Driveshaft A442 33 1/8
  • Rear Driveshaft A442 37 1/4


The difference in lengths come out to
  • Front 4.56 inches
  • Rear 3.31 inches
It seems that while keeping these things in storage for 6 months that I have altered the position of the telescoping parts, so I guess most of these measurements were a waste of time. I dont suppose anyone have a stock FZJ80 that they can measure, I should have done this before tear-down, whoops!

I will be contacting Ann Arbor Driveshaft tomorrow, i'll see what they have to say about all this.

Other than this I just tied up a few loose ends. I replaced some rotted out sway bar bushings...


I also made use of some of the excellent hardware being made by overland metric, really top notch stuff. Any bolt that goes into a weld nut inside of the chassis gets copper anti-seize, these stainless bolts are just the icing on the cake though.

With the powertrain fully installed I thought I might share some photos of the clearance between the firewall and the EGR crap






Here is an overall engine bay shot, i'm hoping to make it look somewhat factory, I know it does not say toyota on the valve cover, and its not a straight six, but we'll see how good of a job I can do.

Another thing that will need to be addressed is oil pan clearance. I'm sure many on mud have extensive experience in this area, I don't have any exact measurements at this point but front looking at things i'm almost 100% sure that if you slam the front axle on the bump stops it will crack the oil pan. I know nothing about FZJ lift kits and need to learn more. I suspect a small lift will be necessary with some kind of bumpstop extensions. Does anyone have words of wisdom on this, I dont want to induce driveline vibs and mostly drive on the street, nothing insane.

Can someone chime in on these photos and tell me what they think of the condition of the factory suspension, front what I can tell its 100% original, it does not look like its ever been worked on.


I'm not sure how this thing will drive, so I dont want to commit to changing the tire size at this point, but going to 33 inch tires would help a bit with the cruising RPM.
 
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I have one thing I would ditch those spring clamps on your heater hoses, I would go regular hose clamps, and replace your heater valve, it looks ready to blow. Tire size for the gearing I run 35's but I am running a 6bt and I want to go to 37's . I am able to go 70 MPH @ 2300 RPMs 4:10 gearing
 
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I herd many times the exact opposite about the clamps. That expansion and contraction with fixed diameter clamps shortens life of rubber hose.

I used stainless ones for my fuel lines, they have an almost smooth bore which is nice any come by the bag from mcmaster carr.

Did you have a heater valve pop?
 
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I herd many times the exact opposite about the clamps. That expansion and contraction with fixed diameter clamps shortens life of rubber hose.

I used stainless ones for my fuel lines, they have an almost smooth bore which is nice any come by the bag from mcmaster carr.

Did you have a heater valve pop?
Breeze constant torque clamps are good.
 
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Nov 23, 2006
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Yes those clamps are super nice, I used them once before! I hope to never have to service the heater lines, they are almost impossible to do with engine installed.

Anyways on to new and exciting things. I took care of a few little things this evening. First was to utilize that nice stainless coolant fitting I had made almost 6 months ago. I have not been able to find OEM quality hose in bulk but have settled with earls super stock, it seems to do the job. I got a few feet of -10AN from Summit and went to work. The ends of the hoses needed to be reamed out in order to get them to install with a reasonable amount of force.

This is the cold coolant return from two heater cores.

Here it attaches to R2.8

Here it connects to LC via custom fitting, now you see why I put the third barb fitting point to the left, it really makes the plumbing clean, should have done the damn thing in hard line.

It bends around the back like so, I would really like one of those things with the two circular hose retainers that pivots in the middle, I have seen them on various Toyota's over the years but I cant seem to dig one up at the moment. Anyone know what i'm talking about or where to find one.


I finished welding my coolant outlet, not the best looking thing ever but it will work. I think I will add some bracketry to provide stiffness, just like Toyota would have done.

I also made the main battery cables from the primary LHS battery down to the starter. I have some left over double ought gauge cable from a previous project where I made some HD cables for a 24 valve cummins dodge. I got some copper lugs from McMaster and did a crimp and solder job with an oxy torch. The finishing touch is provided by some red and black split loom, I like to keep positive and negative color coded for ease of serviceability.





Thats it for today, I am sick of laying on a cold cement floor!
 
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Norvége
Your work is absolute premium and way beyond what most of us can do. But I am a bit puzzled why you shortcut the filler tube. It will annoy you every time you're at the gas station. I have just replaced diesel filler tube on my HDJ80 living in salt, and it went ok. Compared to 3D modeling, FEA and shoehorning the thing into engine bay, filler tube is nada, nothing, nill. I bought at amayama, including a nice oem DIESEL filler cap. Other that that: XLNT work, I could easily see myself buying development from you for "goverment vehicles".
 
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Messages
641
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Michigan
Your work is absolute premium and way beyond what most of us can do. But I am a bit puzzled why you shortcut the filler tube. It will annoy you every time you're at the gas station. I have just replaced diesel filler tube on my HDJ80 living in salt, and it went ok. Compared to 3D modeling, FEA and shoehorning the thing into engine bay, filler tube is nada, nothing, nill. I bought at amayama, including a nice oem DIESEL filler cap. Other that that: XLNT work, I could easily see myself buying development from you for "goverment vehicles".
I was lead to believe that the filler pipe was no longer available, guess I was misled. When I have access to a lift i'll change out the pipe, but right now in a 20 degree pole barn forget it.

Hopefully I wont be able to see it ever time I fill up!
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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I haven’t read this entire thread so maybe I missed how/why you didn’t convert to a hydro booster for the brakes.
 
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Nov 23, 2006
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Michigan
That is exactly right. No need to put in a hydroboost with the r2.8. I was looking at the isb170 engine for a long time before i settled on the r2.8, it has no vac pump provisions, so in that case the hydroboost would have been necessary.

Many many details to consider in one of these swaps, defintally gotta do your research!
 
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Magna, UT
I would really like one of those things with the two circular hose retainers that pivots in the middle, I have seen them on various Toyota's over the years but I cant seem to dig one up at the moment. Anyone know what i'm talking about or where to find one.
Like these guys? There is at least one on a 100 series, passenger side front inside the frame. It doesn't fit right on mine since I don't have stock lines--but I think it originally held a power steering line and a trans cooler line. (or something)

Anyway, it should give you something to search for, or find on a part-out rig.

1911121
 
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It bends around the back like so, I would really like one of those things with the two circular hose retainers that pivots in the middle, I have seen them on various Toyota's over the years but I cant seem to dig one up at the moment. Anyone know what i'm talking about or where to find one.
those were typicaly used on coolant lines, should be able to dig them up off a v6 camry in the 07-12 range. ill see what I can dig up at work. if your dealing with smaller lines and liking for a similar line clamp there is one that you would be able to hard mount, you can get those off of a p/s rack or look up mounts for p/s lines like the one circled in the pic

S5_3403791_Lef_LI.jpg
 
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Nov 23, 2006
Messages
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Like these guys? There is at least one on a 100 series, passenger side front inside the frame. It doesn't fit right on mine since I don't have stock lines--but I think it originally held a power steering line and a trans cooler line. (or something)

Anyway, it should give you something to search for, or find on a part-out rig.

View attachment 1911121
That is exactly what i'm looking for!!

I found this PN
but I cannot tell if it swivels in the middle, if it does it might work. The next question will be the size of hose that will fit through it.
 
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those should fit 1/2 outer diameter as trans cooler lines are 3/8 inner diameter. if its a clamp for the coolant lines going to the cooler it should be about 3/4 outer diameter
 
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The 3/4 OD sounds about right. That's #6 hydraulic line (for my power steering) running through mine in the pic, which is close to 1/2" dia.
 
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Nov 23, 2006
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641
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That might be a problem, Earls super stock -10AN hose is about 0.950 inch on the o.d. if I recall.
What might work is to hook two p-clamps together, if I could put a twist in one of them it just might work.

I wish there was a big book filled with pictures of oem automotive hose attachments like the one pictured above, anyone got any leads?
 
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Got two more things done on the Cruiser in the last couple of days. I finally recieved my exhaust elbow, as I mentioned previously Axis Industries is absolutely scamming people on this part.

Here it is as received, 48$ shipped to my door!

Matches the OEM gasket perfectly

Here are some shots of it bolted to the turbine housing




This cast exhaust elbow has provisions for a 2.5 inch v-band, so I guess that is what will be used for the exhaust system.

Also got my modified driveshafts back from Advantage Driveline in Jackson Michigan, I could not get ahold of Ann Arbor Driveshaft, their phone was disconnected. Not sure how many people on here live in or around S.E. Michigan, does anyone know if they are still around?

All bolted in place




Slowly getting there, i'm hoping to fire it up by the 1st of April! Stay tuned!
 
Joined
May 20, 2009
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Canby Oregon
I herd many times the exact opposite about the clamps. That expansion and contraction with fixed diameter clamps shortens life of rubber hose.

I used stainless ones for my fuel lines, they have an almost smooth bore which is nice any come by the bag from mcmaster carr.

Did you have a heater valve pop?

Nope but, they have a certain shelf life and when they go, it's always when you least expect it, and since you are in there already might as well swap the heater valve
 
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