Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

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Nov 23, 2006
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I finally got around to adding a little gusset to the coolant outlet. I had a few tiny parts made at a local machine shop and used some stainless steel I had laying around.

Here are the two little pieces....

Gave me a chance to practice my tig welding skills, always fun.




Installed finally, should have done this before I installed the engine, it would have been a lot easier. Woulda coulda shoulda. I feel that the spot welds on the arc give it an artistic flare, its still plenty sturdy.


Also got some aluminum parts made at a local water jet company, seems that there was a mistake somewhere along the line. I think they got the scale wrong on some of the drawings. I guess I will have to modify some of them.

 
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I had a free hour so I got to work welding up my intercooler end tanks. It feels good to get back on the TIG, you sure loose it fast if you dont do it frequently. 0.125'' aluminum is really nice to practice with, you dont have to be super talented to make some decent welds. I can't overstate enough the importance of cleanliness while welding, its just like doing all the annoying prep work before painting, it pays huge dividends later on.

These are the first welds I have done on alum that was water jet cut. The parts still require a through cleaning to get rid of the abrasive residue from the cutter. A new SS brush and aluminum cleaner helps a lot, also running your TIG in cleaning mode helps. I had mine set to 60% electrode negative for the welding nerds out there. Even with clean metal I still have arc starting problems from time to time, not sure whats up with that.

This is the aluminum cleaner, highly recommended for alum, leaves no residue.

I made the LHS tank first, I guess I can live with these welds. I was not as anal with the cleaning as I should have been.


Here is the mirror image part finished, I think its a little better. I spend a lot more time with my SS wire brush on the RHS tank.


Now if my intercooler core would show up we could get this thing mounted.
 
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Well finally decided on the power steering cooler, i'm going to use the factory A442 trans cooler. This thing is an absolute beast!!
I found a device to help control fluid temperature so the fluid will still be able to get up to the correct operating temperature.

Mr. T did a really nice job designing the mounts for this cooler, there is a reason these rigs last so long!

I used some high quality hose from McMaster Carr, its rated to 50psi. I think the return circuit on the power steering system is well below this value, can anyone comment? The hose is made specifically for petro based chemicals so hopefully that will not be a problem. Some stainless hose clamps top everything off.:cheers:


For those intrested you can find the thermostat here

I figure if it can work for engine oil then power steering fluid shall also be ok.
 
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@PurpleFJ62 - Thank you for sharing this wealth of knowledge. I have no intention of doing an engine swap any time soon, but I still found it rewarding and educational to read through this entire thread. I know how much time and effort it takes to document ANY project, let alone one of this magnitude, so my hat's off to you to be willing to partake in such a mission for the sake of the rest of us here. I know this thread will be referenced religiously for years to come.

David
 
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@PurpleFJ62 - Thank you for sharing this wealth of knowledge. I have no intention of doing an engine swap any time soon, but I still found it rewarding and educational to read through this entire thread. I know how much time and effort it takes to document ANY project, let alone one of this magnitude, so my hat's off to you to be willing to partake in such a mission for the sake of the rest of us here. I know this thread will be referenced religiously for years to come.

David
Thank you for those kind words. I think it would be great if people jumped on the r2.8 for the 80 series. Maybe one day all this work will help someone out. I feel i should give something back to mud after 10 years of coming here for answers.
 
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A small update after another cold weekend here in michigan.

I made a small bracket for the intake grid heater, i also included a relay for the diesel starter. Cummins says the solenoid can draw 50 amps peak, i dont want to fry any LC wiring.

Here is the bracket, 304 stainless so it does not rust. Not my best work but it will do.


I also got to work on the intercooler, this was much harder than i thought it would be.





I had lots of problems welding the ic in the upright position in the corners, a back purge helped a bit. I need to get comfortable with welding up and down instead of just on flat stuff.

I tried to use gloves to seal up...

Thats all the progress this weekend.
 
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Things moving very slowly right now. Having problems with the cooling package at the moment. Also trying to figure out a solution for the cruise control. Does anyone have a line on a FJ80 throttle cable? The one from the pedal to the CC actuator?

The only new thing to report has to due with the R2.8 ECM mount. The ECM is rather large, way to big to fit where the 1FZ one was, so it has to be mounted under the hood. Looking back I should have put it in the center console or something. I am starting to run out of room under the hood, by the time this is over there will be none left at all I think.

Here is the R2.8 ECM, it has cooling fins!:) May need a heat shield between it and the turbo.


I got this little mounting plate water jet cut...

Then proceeded to bend 3/4'' by 1/8'' strap stock to make little mounting legs...



 
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I used some high quality hose from McMaster Carr, its rated to 50psi. I think the return circuit on the power steering system is well below this value, can anyone comment?
ive never seen a spec for return pressure but return lines have spring clamps on them so cant be too high :meh:. I used generic trans lines when I had to replace me ps cooler and no problems for the last few years with the lines
 
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ive never seen a spec for return pressure but return lines have spring clamps on them so cant be too high :meh:. I used generic trans lines when I had to replace me ps cooler and no problems for the last few years with the lines
That's what I thought but I just want to get the opinion of some other people on here. Of all the parts involved in this swap the hoses are the one thing I am not expecting to have problems with. Now some of the other parts on the other hand I have some concerns with.
 
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Things moving very slowly right now. Having problems with the cooling package at the moment. Also trying to figure out a solution for the cruise control. Does anyone have a line on a FJ80 throttle cable? The one from the pedal to the CC actuator?

The only new thing to report has to due with the R2.8 ECM mount. The ECM is rather large, way to big to fit where the 1FZ one was, so it has to be mounted under the hood. Looking back I should have put it in the center console or something. I am starting to run out of room under the hood, by the time this is over there will be none left at all I think.

Here is the R2.8 ECM, it has cooling fins!:) May need a heat shield between it and the turbo.


I got this little mounting plate water jet cut...

Then proceeded to bend 3/4'' by 1/8'' strap stock to make little mounting legs...



fj80 or fzj80? I have a fj80 cable I could sell you. I also have a fj80 cruise control actuator that hasnt been tested, and I have the actuator linkage, but I don't have the mounting brackets. I tried getting the stock fj80 cruise control actuator to work, but I gave up and ordered a dakota digital cruise control on my LS motor. The dakota digital cruise needs a rpm signal and a speed signal. I was able to use the stock oem stalk with a little modification with the dakota cruise.
 
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fj80 or fzj80? I have a fj80 cable I could sell you. I also have a fj80 cruise control actuator that hasnt been tested, and I have the actuator linkage, but I don't have the mounting brackets. I tried getting the stock fj80 cruise control actuator to work, but I gave up and ordered a dakota digital cruise control on my LS motor. The dakota digital cruise needs a rpm signal and a speed signal. I was able to use the stock oem stalk with a little modification with the dakota cruise.
I got my stock 1996 CC to work it only needed a few signals and a 5V trigger to allow it to turn on. The original ECU had conditions it had to meet before turning on the 5v output to allow the CC computer to power up. I feed a 5v always on output from my TCU to it.
 

Rivman1243

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I got my stock 1996 CC to work it only needed a few signals and a 5V trigger to allow it to turn on. The original ECU had conditions it had to meet before turning on the 5v output to allow the CC computer to power up. I feed a 5v always on output from my TCU to it.
I've always wanted to use the cruise control to idle up the stock engine. I know on most Cummins products you can do this with the cruise control switches.
 
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I got my stock 1996 CC to work it only needed a few signals and a 5V trigger to allow it to turn on. The original ECU had conditions it had to meet before turning on the 5v output to allow the CC computer to power up. I feed a 5v always on output from my TCU to it.
That's cool. I couldn't get it to work on my 92. With the dakota digital it works now. Only difference is the dakota digital only turns on the OEM cruise light when the cruise is actually engaged. But does not turn on when the cruise is on and not engaged.
 
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fj80 or fzj80? I have a fj80 cable I could sell you. I also have a fj80 cruise control actuator that hasnt been tested, and I have the actuator linkage, but I don't have the mounting brackets. I tried getting the stock fj80 cruise control actuator to work, but I gave up and ordered a dakota digital cruise control on my LS motor. The dakota digital cruise needs a rpm signal and a speed signal. I was able to use the stock oem stalk with a little modification with the dakota cruise.
Is your LS drive by wire? I figured with drive by wire engines with in cab pedal assemblies that something would exist to fake the input signal to the engine ECM.

I was thinking about diving into the world of Arduino to try and figure this out. But nothing I do will be as good as what Toyota did.
 
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My plan for the cruise control is as follows.
  1. Find FJ80 CC actuator (Done)
  2. Find FJ80 throttle cables (Pending)
  3. Convert R2.8 from in cab throttle control to under hood control (Pending)
I need the cables outlined in the figure below, my guess is the output cable from the actuator will need to be modified since i'm running out of good places to mount a new throttle setup.

I have done a bit of digging into the Cummins throttle setup. They use a WM-540 pedal from williams controls, that part was easy to figure out from the box it comes in. The actual sensor that spits out signals to the ECM has some part number that escapes me at the moment, anyways the important part is its input-output response curve.

Now the problem with this is that the sensor only has like 58 degrees of rotation where as everything on the LC is set up for 90 degrees I believe. I wont know this until I examine my FJ80 actuator.

It seems that Cummins diesels all use similar TPS units, but technical specs are sparse. I would like to check out a TPS off of a 24V 6BT, but in any case custom s*** will be required since I probably cant mount the TPS inside of the CC actuator box. So i'm going to stick with my 58 degree sensor.

Here is the Cummins supplied pedal, I already mounted this in my LC because I was going to skip the cruise control all together for now. But I guess I might as well just do it all right the first time.

For the actual throttle i'm working on a design right now. It will be mounted somewhere under the hood and will get hooked up to the R2.8 ECM. I will have to tweek all the dimensions and measure the cable hardward to finalize this, but to give a sneek peek. The sensor will bolt to the back side of this goofy looking thing. It will use a sealed SS bearing for longevity and corrosion resistance. All over the counter stuff from McMaster-Carr.
 
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Its been awhile since my last update. Things have been super busy and I have not been free to work on the LC much as of late.

I extended the R2.8 engine harness 18 inches to reach the location where I mounted the R2.8 ECM. That was a real fun job I must say. I hope I did not mix up any of the wires. I incorporated the factory wire shield that bolts to the firewall right under the heater control valve.

I added a couple supporting clamps to keep the bundle of wires safe. I am thinking I need to add a stiffener bracket for the clamp by the ECM, i'll see if I got any scrap laying around that will do the trick.




 
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Here is the cruise control stuff I have. The cable from the actuator to the throttle body has been modified. I removed the factory cable from the sleeve and installed a longer cable in the sleeve with custom ends fyi. Let me know if your interested.
20190329_191151.jpg
 
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Here is the cruise control stuff I have. The cable from the actuator to the throttle body has been modified. I removed the factory cable from the sleeve and installed a longer cable in the sleeve with custom ends fyi. Let me know if your interested. View attachment 1940079
Thanks for sharing that picture. I found a FJ80 Cruise Control Actuator on ebay, I have not verified that it works yet. It seems that one of the pulleys has no return spring, is your like that? I guess the throttle body return spring is responsable for pushing the cable back and taking any slack out of the pulley in the actuator.

One thing that is bugging me at the moment. Those people with 80 series with cruise control and dual batteries what are they doing for a windshield washer fluid reservoir? My FZJ unit will not fit anywhere now, not with that ugly Cummins ECM in the way.

I guess another custom part is in order...
 
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91 and 92 models had different resevoir located on the driver side fender. You can get new repo ones from australia. Their is a return spring for the pedal side, but the throttle body side does not have a spring and relies on the TB spring for return.
 
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