Same here. It requires a lot of massaging for install.
Cruisers and Company 80 Series Turbo
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Same here. It requires a lot of massaging for install.
Yup, the instructions are pretty rough as well, which isnt a big deal, but for the price id expect a little more. The fitment is rough at best.
If you want to look my FTE you can, I also still have the full crossover so you could make kits to suit both with crossover, and without.
I picked up a sequoia to daily, so timing isnt a big deal either.
If you want to look my FTE you can, I also still have the full crossover so you could make kits to suit both with crossover, and without.
I picked up a sequoia to daily, so timing isnt a big deal either.
Cruisers and Co
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Legend! I’ll be in touch!
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Really nice work
Thanks! Check my "black hole" thread for full on porno shots of the finished setup.
SteelHunterFJ80
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This is why I'm stalling on upgrading to a h152. $3500 part would mean almost $1000 in tariffs. Oh well, I still have a lot to do on my rig
I don't trust my son! But I hope he fills it with 91 when he Joy rides it.
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Don’t mess with disaster!
I will be trying all the flavors starting week!
Starting with the 94
Starting with the 94
CrabCake
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Does your ECU have optional tune levels? I don't remember seeing this, but I know that some of my former Audi tune packages had different tunes based on using an input such as a stalk button conversion.
Honestly, I don't know of any performance gains by bumping the octane too high unless you also bump some of the parameters such as timing, fuel & boost to match the needs of a higher fuel grade.
Honestly, I don't know of any performance gains by bumping the octane too high unless you also bump some of the parameters such as timing, fuel & boost to match the needs of a higher fuel grade.
Your probably right. I pass this race gas station on my way to work everyday. I'm curious if any performance difference from 91, perhaps smoother acceleration?
That's not really how octane works, it's just a measure of it's resistance to auto-ignition. It's not any cleaner or higher performing, it's just as energy dense as lower octane. The power bump comes from being able to run more aggressive timing/boost (both increase cylinder pressure) due to the lower possibility of ping (knock, detonation, LSPI). Also be careful playing with race fuels, many are leaded which will trash O2 sensors and catalytic converters in short order.
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Is it recommended to run premium with the turbo ?
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Yes. At minimum 91 is what you want. It will run on 89/87/85 but your chances of predetonation increases the lower you go which is bad. Stick to the highest octane at any normal gas station you come across is what I have been recommending.
No cats here....but yeah im still curious. So far the 94 felt no real difference. Only "feels" smoother up a grade at 9psi on my way to work
I've run a couple warmed up V8's in daily drivers. 11:1 CR. I was, how do I say, "financially limited" being an E4 in the military and spending all my money on vehicle parts. So I'd occasionally run 87 during the week and fill her up with 91 and octane boost on Friday in preparation of spirited driving activities. My engine builder/mentor warned me about running 87. Said you can't always hear detonation, but it's gonna be there with 87.
I pulled one of the engines to freshen it after about 10k miles. Pistons/bores looked great. Bearings all looked nice EXCEPT the rod bearings had these axial lines only on the upper shells. All of them looked the same. And you could almost feel them- They were about .0001" deep, 5-6 of them on each bearing shell. These were harder race spec bearings. Took one down to my engine builder and he says- "You've been running 87 haven't you!" Those lines were dents from the rod journal hammering the bearing shells from pre-ignition.
I'm very thankful I got to see such an example of the extreme forces on internal engine parts pre-ignition causes.
I haven't run 87 in anything performance since that day.
I pulled one of the engines to freshen it after about 10k miles. Pistons/bores looked great. Bearings all looked nice EXCEPT the rod bearings had these axial lines only on the upper shells. All of them looked the same. And you could almost feel them- They were about .0001" deep, 5-6 of them on each bearing shell. These were harder race spec bearings. Took one down to my engine builder and he says- "You've been running 87 haven't you!" Those lines were dents from the rod journal hammering the bearing shells from pre-ignition.
I'm very thankful I got to see such an example of the extreme forces on internal engine parts pre-ignition causes.
I haven't run 87 in anything performance since that day.
Is there a particular reason you are using the "black" ecu over the "classic" ecu?
Cheers