Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (6 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

Shifter shaft linkage looks real fimilar

Which one? I copied the way the Twin-stick kits do the 2/4 attachment, did you do something similar?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Which one? I copied the way the Twin-stick kits do the 2/4 attachment, did you do something similar?

I did its on my ig

 

[cruisermatt]

I seem to routinely choose poor times to remove and install heavy drivetrain components by myself.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It's in!!!

 

[cruisermatt]

Pleased to report I’ve been happily daily driving the truck mostly problem free.
Last month after I got the AC lines made and installed I got the AC charged up with R134 and it blew very cold but smelled heavily of Freon and only held the charge for about 24 hours. So, an evaporator issue. I replaced this evaporator about three years ago but never charged the system, so I suspected a faulty connection under the dash.
Evaporator removal and installation is quick if you rip it out and slam it back in like you hate it.

Found the issue, not supposed to be an O-ring in there. Whoops.

 

[cruisermatt]

Next up on my series of finishing my many small unfinished projects was getting my onboard air put in. I bought the empty bottle for about $20 a few years ago. After $25 to fill it at the welding supply, and a $40 regulator and some fittings I’m into my OBA for under $150. The bottle is 20lb so it should last a long time.

 

[cruisermatt]

Another project I started months ago and never finished (still not really finished) is a new center dash panel.
Still need to add stainless toggle switches in the upper right corner and find a matching dark grey paint.

The gauges are going to be for oil pressure and oil temp as I currently had no way of monitoring either and am planning on installing an oil cooler and I’ll like to see the difference.
To the left is my Scanguage and on the other side is a Bluesea charger panel.

Next up is an auxiliary fuse block and wiring accessories.

 

[orion]

Lookin good - I like the ScanGauge placement.

What's the OBA bottle mount made from, aluminum?

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Lookin good - I like the ScanGauge placement.

What's the OBA bottle mount made from, aluminum?

- Brian

Hey Brian, I thought about getting crazy and making something sweet on the mill but I just don’t have time. This is just a 2x6 cut with a router. The clamp is some 14 gauge steel bend by hand. Wrapped in a bycicle inner tube for extra grip. All recycled and super fast to make. I think it took 20 minutes.

 

[nukegoat]

How many 41.5s can i fill up with one of those tanks?

Also, use Spiralocks - they use them on the space shuttle:

https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/-/media/web/sef/resources/docs/spiralock/spiralock-catalog--2019.pdf

 

[cruisermatt]

How many 41.5s can i fill up with one of those tanks?

Also, use Spiralocks - they use them on the space shuttle:

https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/-/media/web/sef/resources/docs/spiralock/spiralock-catalog--2019.pdf

According to Powertank’s site approximately 36 tires at 35 seconds each. That’s from 10psi to 25 though I think, with beadlocks you’d probably be starting with lower pressures

Those spirallocks are neat but I already use my own version of those all the time, simply jam together fasteners that weren’t meant to and they’ll lock up good

 

[nukegoat]

According to Powertank’s site approximately 36 tires at 35 seconds each. That’s from 10psi to 25 though I think, with beadlocks you’d probably be starting with lower pressures

Those spirallocks are neat but I already use my own version of those all the time, simply jam together fasteners that weren’t meant to and they’ll lock up good

a crossed thread is a tight thread!

 

[74fj40]

a crossed thread is a tight thread!

I like to call it, mother nature’s loctite

 

[cruisermatt]

@tmxmotorsports so a hydrobooster puts a big restriction only when being used. So I don't think that is my issue. Also I have have driven a few FJ60's with Saginaw pumps and hydroboost that have much better assist. I also didn't mention that my first steering pump was from the junkyard and the current is a $30 Cardone reman. Lol

I am going to buy a new OEM CBR pump and associated bracket next paycheck. Should increase pump output pressure by a good amount. Looking forwards to results. I want that one-finger steering.
I am considering go to bigger more aggressive tires for wheeling (like 37-38" swampers and beadlocks one day) and am looking into hydroassist as well. In which case it might be beneficial to mod the hydroboost for flow (which a ram needs more of then pressure)

 

[Das Shtig]

I seem to routinely choose poor times to remove and install heavy drivetrain components by myself.

View attachment 2033631

holler at ya boy next time

 

[cruisermatt]

Transfer case part2, deja vu Electric Boogalo

Almost immediately after installing my freshly rebuilt T-case and doubler combo in July I was greated with a big leak from the adapter and main case. Kept an eye on fluid levels and daily drove.
Two weeks ago, the same grinding noise was back again. I also had a bad leak from my NV4500. Last Friday, pulled everything again. At 10pm, in the rain. The nice thing is it only takes about 40 minutes to have it out and the shop floor.

Here's what I found upon disassembly:

 

[cruisermatt]

In addition to the failure of the spacer that sits under the idler gear (which I had made by turning down an extra of the spacer that goes under the speedo drive gear on the output shaft, too thin of a wall and not hardened, lesson learned), half of the bolts going into the adapter had striped their time-serts that I installed in July. Several felt sketchy when being torqed. They all clicked the torque wrench but just didn't feel right, I went ahead and ran it anyways. I attribute this to the Time-serts being to shallow of a thread depth. They were only about 1/2" long. My reasoning for not drilling deeper before was not wanting to remove the adapter from the doubler. This bit me.
So now I get to do it right.
Lets make this so it's never a problem again, ever.
Adapter gets removed and put on the mill. All holes and time-serts get drilled and tapped to 9/16-18 threads, and all as deep as possible. The lower two holes are drilled and tapped completely through the plate. So we're back to aluminum threads, but with fine pitch instead of coarse and with much deeper thread depth in several holes.

The lowest holes looks wallowed out because it is. This hole was previouly tapped, I drilled it out to and used a steel jam nut inside now. By wallowing out the hole I was able to get a SHCS inside to replace the stud on the 203 face which gives me the clearance for the 9/16 jam nut.

Bolt size comparison.

Next up, ruin more Toyota parts. Get lazy a just use a drill instead of setting it up on the mill.

 

[cruisermatt]

My spacer vs the correct spacer from Advance Adapters. (#716142) $20 and had in 48 hours cross-country. Advance Adapters may have some questionable design decisions and longevity testing but their customer service is great.

Rewelded my DIY Mcnamarra gear.

I also didn't have this hole plugged. I discovered this after reading through @boots4 thread for 203 reference pics, his thread is the only sort of instructions I can find for this long discontinued kit.
This is why I was always getting such a bad leak from between the adapter and front case half which really should only see splash oil that the sealed 203 bearing and input seal should stop. Oil would go into this hole and pool up in the cavity between the doubler and front case half.

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok, now it's time to reassemble with my new mega 9/16" bolts, threadlocker, safety wire, and used gaskets. Oh yeah, at midnight after being awake 20 hours prior. Now I can say I can do this in my sleep. Seriously, I started to doze off a few times. Luckily my friends were hanging around keeping me up.

I accidentally ordered the wrong length SHCS for the lowest bolt bolt so had to use a regular hex bolt in a pinch. I used SHCS for everything because I was concerned that the outside diameter of the 13/16 socket needed for 9/16" hex bolts wouldn't clear the housing during assembly, but afterwards I checked and it fits fine. So regular hex bolts work fine for all of them for anyone one else crazy/dumb enough to do the same.

 

[Hojack]

Nice photo dump Matt
Great pics