Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (2 Viewers)

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Had good weather and @Skitz had a little time on his hands. 4 hours later and here we are:

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Mounts need to move back, but otherwise, it fits shockingly well. The factory cats even clear.
 
Ok, folks, the driveline is in here pretty good now and I'd like to hear from y'all to see what I'm missing before I start preparing to make this permanent. Pics to help:

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Oil pan to diff clearance is really hard to get captured on camera, but it looks very favorable. I'll have to get it flexed to see how it is and what needs work.

Main compromises are engine height to keep CG low with good diff clearance...keep the driveline as far back as possible for truck balance...overall driveline angle around 3-4*...and tcase to floorplan clearance at ~1/2".

So yeah, let's hear you guys' thoughts on where things are currently positioned.

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if you've got 1/2" of transmission tunnel clearance, that's 3/8" higher that the transmission and T-case can go!
 
Hah! I'm gonna leave a little room for movement. I'm gonna need a bracket to mount the tcase shifter too; that's gonna eat at least 3/16".
 
Big day today. Mounts are burned in and the engine is home. The 60s bay just swallows up the 2UZ...there's so much room up front.

I'll hit the parts books for a fan with a smaller OD, but it's looking like the mech fan isn't going to work as there's maybe half an inch between it and the steering box.
 
Turns out a 2F cooling fan is just the right size. Ill get the needed tip clearance and still have room against the steering box. Heck yeah. It'll need a spacer to get the correct back spacing, but it'll run.. Gonna be neat to have a little 2F still running on the UZ. Couple pics for reference:

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Little more progress. I'll hit the drops bin tomorrow for the structural mounting pieces. The flat bar serves as a good third hand and spot to mount the tcase skid.

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Near about! Good people there.
 
Balancing ECU maps and known components as I whack away the harness. So far about 1/3 of the body harness is deleted.

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It verrrrrkksssssss!!! Many thanks to @bush for helping out with the troubleshooting today. To any one doing this swap later... check your grounds, then check 'em again!

 
Thanks. I'll make sure and get the details of what all went into it written up once it's driving around.
 
Nice dude! That's the real deal, no BS , no infinite chit chat, just getting the project done! I'm stoked.
 
Nice dude! That's the real deal, no BS , no infinite chit chat, just getting the project done! I'm stoked.

Thanks, man. Hoping to keep the pace up. Lots more to do, but the baby steps are making progress. Hearing that growl sure gave me a boost.
 
Nice work sir! Glad ole Camo has taken another step in the process. Cant wait to see it out on the trail.
 
Final fuel lines are in the engine bay, unnecessary 60 harness connectors are cut out, clutch hardware is deleted, a couple gallons worth of rodent nests are gone from the HVAC plenum (HVAC levers all move fully now! Gonna be nice to have functional HVAC in here finally.), and one seriously large hole is cut below the blower motor for one side of the harness to pass through. Once the harness is fully in and tidy I'll get a few photos up. Hopefully that's later this week.
 
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Glove box was already shredded, so it donated its space for the ECM and a junction block. Got the OBD online as well. Probably a dozen cold starts so far, and no codes yet - here's hoping that holds up.

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Cruiser legos...80 speedometer gear in a 100s case turning a 60 cable. We'll see how it works out.

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Shifter mounted. Another baby step taken.

Future swappers: the A750E and F use a signal from the shifter's switch to tell the ECM when you've moved to 4th or 1st, so you'll need the shifter from your donor or a 100/tundra/sequoia/4rnr. A significant perk is that the 4runner uses a cable rather than a conventional linkage. This was nice, as I could move the shifter to exactly where felt the most comfortable.

The hole for the cat temp sensor is in the perfect spot for cable routing. It's 5mm too small, but a few seconds with a stone in a drill opened it up. The cable has a gasketed plate with studs made onto it. Pop a couple holes in the floor pan for the studs and you could remain water tight - not that this chewed up rig will benefit from that feature, ha.

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