Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)

[Gusb]

Note to Miker - update on the 653 Olive paint debacle.
Took my driver's side door in to the local paint guy this morning. They used the camera on the door and the computer said they could actually come closer than nastier paint I was driving to Salinas to get for a better match. Also I guess this stuff (as your friend said) should be around/available longer.

Looked good on the computer screen but when they mixed some up it had that familiar mis-matched green cast. So Pete went back and did some hand tweaking and I think they got it pretty close. I think he said he pulled the green and some yellow out. I know Omni is not the high-end but he says it's really decent and I want a single stage I can touch-up and spot paint with. It seems this stuff needs a few coats and/or less reducer (spec - 4-1-2) to cover well. Picked up a pint to try and will report back. I've attached the mix.

Omni - MTX 2.8 VOC Single Stage
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[miker]

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing your results.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Where did they measure, on the inside of the door? Steven's Creek paint shop? Their camera matcher didn't come out correct? Strange. I could meet you there sometime with a cowl vent. The inside surface is perfect, original and should be a great place from which to get a match.

When I bought the paint for my half doors they had the same problem; too green, based on the code alone. I was worried about them reproducing the tweaked color, but I suppose if you have the formula... Once the doors were painted I wasn't much worried about matching since the outside of my 40 was pretty well affected by the sun.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Gotta love the older shops. Went in to a local auto parts place to get some paint mixed, and the old school dude did it all by hand and eye...looks real close...closer than any info from the computer

Looking forward to seeing pics of your sample paint!

 

[duffontap]

Note to Miker - update on the 653 Olive paint debacle.
Took my driver's side door in to the local paint guy this morning.

Looked good on the computer screen but when they mixed some up it had that familiar mis-matched green cast. It seems this stuff needs a few coats and/or less reducer (spec - 4-1-2) to cover well. Picked up a pint to try and will report back. I've attached the mix.

Omni - MTX 2.8 VOC Single Stage
---------------------------------------

Interesting to see this now. I'm using a two stage 653 match. My base is more green than OEM, but I very much prefer it to the more brown/yellow versions.

The biggest problem I've had is that it is so transparent the color changes with each successive coat and I'm needing 5-7 wet coats for sufficient coverage (directions say 2-3) and now the color varies slightly from panel to panel.

Better luck to you!

 

[Fast Eddy]

This one, IMO, is too brown, not enough green. From the Rising Sun Rally thread in chat:

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Wasn't there a brown version...I think I remember reading it being called Buffalo or something??

 

[Fast Eddy]

Wasn't there a brown version...I think I remember reading it being called Buffalo or something??

Yea, but it's actually brown, like dark brown. I'm pretty sure this is an attempt at Olive 653 that didn't quite make it.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Yea, but it's actually brown, like dark brown. I'm pretty sure this is an attempt at Olive 653 that didn't quite make it.

Oh...I see...

 

[Gusb]

Where did they measure, on the inside of the door? Steven's Creek paint shop? Their camera matcher didn't come out correct? Strange. I could meet you there sometime with a cowl vent. The inside surface is perfect, original and should be a great place from which to get a match.

When I bought the paint for my half doors they had the same problem; too green, based on the code alone. I was worried about them reproducing the tweaked color, but I suppose if you have the formula... Once the doors were painted I wasn't much worried about matching since the outside of my 40 was pretty well affected by the sun.

The paint guy used the camera on the outside of the door - original factory paint. I'm trying to match the aged paint and the hidden areas (no sun) with clean factory paint don't really seem that different to my eye. I'm sure the outside is more faded and the door is probably less faded than the hood, etc. I attached 3 samples below of the old original paint in different light. There's a section on my hardtop (passenger rear) that the PO had painted at some point and it kind of seems like an ok match but get it in the wrong light and it goes green - really shows in the dirty - no wax shot below - another match miss in the green direction I think.

The Rising Sun truck you put up looks a lot closer to me than PPG's book color for Olive. I think the gloss on new paint really makes it tough to judge also.

 

[Fast Eddy]

If that's a paint swatch you have taped onto the door there, I'd say it's good enough.

I still want a sample of that powder coat color I posted a while back. It would be damn convenient to have my tailgate and my front fenders powder coated.

 

[FJsnoozer]

my 653 tub and sides has more of the green that you have shown in that respray. The inside of my hard top sides has some very original paint in good condition.

 

[Gusb]

Many thanks to miker, whitey45 and kiwidog for driving the 40 the last few weeks and all the valuable insight they provided. Feeling good about the truck and contemplating a carburetor overhaul and knuckle rebuild next to go along with the never ending body work.

 

[miker]

Gus, your 40 is coming along nicely. I continue to enjoy your thread, photos, and especially enjoyed meeting and talking with you.

The knuckle rebuild is a 'fun' but messy project. Probably something that should be done if you have no idea about when or even if its ever been done to your 40. Go with a kit that has the Koyo knuckle bearings. You may also want to consider using the Marlin Crawler axle seals just for a little bit if extra insurance on any potential future leaks. Keep the knuckle shims as they come off and you don't need to worry about centering the knuckle with an SST. Your cruiser looked pretty original to me so I would bet the knuckles were last assembled by Toyota.

 

[Gusb]

Paint update (as usual please keep in mind I have no idea what I'm doing):

Driving the 40 around is apparently quite a bit more fun than painting it. Started experimenting with the PPG Omni (MTX 2.8 VOC single stage) on my driver's side front door. I have gotten to the point where I can lay the EP (PPG DPLV) down fairly well. But this single-stage Omni stuff is a challenge. Goes on very transparent and seems to require more than 1, 2, 3 ... coats to really get coverage. I shot the door with 2 coats and waited 24 hours. Seems to spray well (lot more overspray than the epoxy primer) but coverage seems very inconsistent - lots of light areas of primer showing through. Did a light scruff with some 320 paper/pad after the 24 hours and reshot today - still with mixed results. Got a few bad runs just trying to get coverage. So I'm going back to the paint guy for advice. I'm wondering if the paint needs additional shaking after the mix, etc. (paint sticks not cutting it). I did a small mix, put it in 2 PPS cups and the 1st seem to cover ok, the second seemed to have more coverage problems (it was sitting capped, on the table unmoved for say 15 minutes). I'm also going to ask the paint guy if he can remove a little of the gloss. When I do get coverage it actually looks pretty good. I've read mixed reviews of this "cheaper paint" online but I'm still thinking I'm the bigger part of the problem here.

Edit: This is on top of the PPG DPLV epoxy primer.

Note some of the stuff floating around my garage has found it's way to the paint.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Are you thinning the paint? Try not using the reducer if you are.

I found that out using the PPG shop line brand. Also I found the color you use will have more or less pigment in it.

Looking good so far.

 

[Gusb]

Are you thinning the paint? Try not using the reducer if you are.

I found that out using the PPG shop line brand. Also I found the color you use will have more or less pigment in it.

Looking good so far.

Thanks Greek - the paint guy told me earlier (up front) to cut down on the reducer, which I did a little - maybe I should cut down more...
spec sheet calls 4 - 1 - 2 (reducer)

 

[waiting for time]

You can take a flower pressure spray ( hope you understand what I mean to say) and wet the floor before you start spraying. This will lessen the amount off stuff floating arround and land on your paint while drying.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Thanks Greek - the paint guy told me earlier (up front) to cut down on the reducer, which I did a little - maybe I should cut down more...
spec sheet calls 4 - 1 - 2 (reducer)

Try cutting it out completely, I know it sounds crazy, but it worked great for me.

 

[Gusb]

You can take a flower pressure spray ( hope you understand what I mean to say) and wet the floor before you start spraying. This will lessen the amount off stuff floating arround and land on your paint while drying.

Thanks - I kind of knew I'd be hitting this finish with 320 again, so I pulled all my setup, plastic, etc. down while it was still tacky - which always kicks up a lot of additional stuff.