SOLD '78 FJ40, Survivor from NorCal

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Vehicle Model
  1. 40 Series
United States
It's got matching olive doors on it now, more rusty around the bottom than the green doors, you can have either set.

All new OEM Toyota parts within 5k miles:
  • Steering except for the box (could use a seal).
  • Brakes, all components and hoses (DOT 4 fluid), booster from a 4Runner
  • Clutch, master, slave and all soft lines
  • All coolant lines, thermostat, water pump, original radiator disassembled, core rodded out
  • Front end rebuild including e-locker and rare long-body Asco hubs.
  • Seat covers and better, original seat bottom foam.
All original including most of the bolts. I have turned almost every bolt in 12 years and drilled and tapped quite a few. Almost all are OEM and correct.

I estimate it has about 75000 miles on it, but that cannot be confirmed. The PO swapped out the cluster at some point. I would estimate that I have about 10000 miles on it between '06 and '10 and about 500 miles since then. It's in the garage and has been for 3 years.

It has a tool bag with the jack crank, but no other tools, original jack and rods where they are supposed to be. I have the original window sticker and tons of receipts from the original owner. There's even a picture of him in my ROTW thread. It was originally sold in Walnut Creek and lived in Livermore until 2006 when I bought it.

The front two 33x9.5 BFG ATs I bought new right around when they stopped making them, maybe 2013? The other three I pieced together from various places. All are almost full tread. One was flat for awhile and has some sidewall cracking, not the newest ones though. I've been driving around on it. :meh: (Date codes on the oldest two, the rears, is '97) The big tires stuff nicely off-road with just a tiny bit of rubbing on the tub in the back at full flex. It runs 65 to almost 70 on the freeway pretty nicely due to the big rubber. It will also come with an old pair of Big-O brand 33x9.5s for spares.

The original-paint olive doors are rusty around the bottom. I have a pair of green barn doors that are very straight and mostly rust-free, if you would prefer.

You can compare the rust from the original thread I posted back in 2007 to the pics I took in 2018. The hood has plenty of surface rust and one hard top side has some bubbling rust. The patches I did in the rear sill need a do-over and the sill needs to be replaced eventually. In the pic of the driver's rear tire you can see some rock damage to the area behind the running board, but you could get it perfect with a hammer and some dollies. There is a crack in the windshield frame above the hinge on the driver's side. Looks like the PO was pulling himself in by the windshield top. It hasn't gotten worse since I've owned it.

The rear step and the other running board are now installed. The plastic mirror heads could use to be replaced. They don't last very long.

It has an e-locker in the front. The bump stops are extended by about an inch to keep the e-locker actuator from contacting the oil pan. I always intended to install a cable-locker conversion kit. It has a lock-right locker in the rear. It's ok on the street, but noticeable. Awesome off road. The e-locker switch is an oem-style knob on an original flasher switch in an original hole by the lighter. I made the controller from relays from a circuit diagram found on the forums.

It has an h-41 and a 3-speed case, so 4.92 x 2.12 x 4.11 = 42.87 vs 3.55 x 1.95 x 4.11 = 28.45 final drive ratio stock. That's right about a 1.5x lower ratio than stock as it sits. 1st gear is very short when driving it on the street, just enough to get it rolling. I don't mind it. The 3-speed case is a bit whiny, but not bad. It has one of Georg's t-case savers on it that you can see in the ROTW thread and it has the 2wd-lo mod which is great for backing out of the garage.

It has a tach in the dash which is the biggest sin against bone stock. It's well done and in a good spot. The AM radio worked and I'm pretty sure still works. It may have a fuse out. The antenna needs replacing. The dash pad does not have any cracks. It is the original. The door limiters are perfect and have all the original hardware. The doors have bronze bushings and the spare tire hinge plastic bushings have been replaced with OEM parts. The window felts need to be replaced.

As far as I know the wiring harness is perfect. Every circuit works, including the carb cooling fan. The exception is the seat belt buzzer. I recall it worked before, but it isn't working right now. It needs a new motor for the washer pump to work as well as tubing and the hood squirter.

The seats are recently recovered over very nice original foams. All the belts are OEM and nice. The jump seats need attention. One needs a hinge welded, but it's not broken yet. The headliner has been out of it since I have owned it. It never bothered me. There's a pic of what it looks like in the ROTW thread.

The lights are all Hella brand with regular bulbs. The driving lights are not hacked into the harness. They are wired with a relay to the high beams with no switch in the cab other than the normal high-beam switch.

The '78 2f will pass CA smog. It's not the original motor, but is bone stock and lower miles than the body. It has the CA-only TR manifold.

I have clean title in my hand. If you love it, make me an offer. I want it to go to a good home.
The one on the left is for sale. The one on the right is not. :)

IMO, the perfect patina of the front bumper is worth the price for just that part.





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Amazing rust-free floors. I sprayed the black rustoleum over some surface rust way back in '06.


Before and after a cloth wipe and some paste wax of a quarter-panel to show how the paint can shine up:



And another little waxed spot at the back doors.

You can also see the doors have been cleaned up some if you look close at a couple pics in the first posting. I don't have time to wax the whole thing at once, but if it's for sale for awhile, I'll get it done and post pics.
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Let me be the first to say GLWS.

Hate to do it, but I need to thin the herd. My tow rig is for sale in "other vehicles" sold.

Lots of parts from your shop in this rig, including the carb rebuild. Thanks!

If anyone wants to do a concourse resto, like maybe @Wadesters, @overton, @1973Guppie or @The FJ Company, I might be interested in shipping this and funding it just to go to the auction. :) It would have to be on a contracted schedule.
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BAT or Overton before FleaBay.

Call Ron, he might know someone looking for a solid 40.
I pinged @overton when I first posted the thread.

There is one bolt I know of that needs to be has been drilled out and replaced and two other ones that are not OEM Toyota. There are probably a few that are the later mini-truck style.
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It is such a shame that the factory radio which looks stellar in this pic gets bludgeoned to death by that ugly tach or oil gauge sitting only inches away....ugh!!

I don't totally disagree. If you read my ROTW thread I said about the same thing, "...biggest sin...". It is very functional and blends in pretty well in practice.
Bay Area Craig’s has had the same 40’s for sale for 6 to 10 months!! The market is flooded and non are selling!! Most are worth maybe half the asking price. There is a reason why they don’t sell! Same for all the other junk asking 10k for a rusty c10 Longbed? The web has created a make believe market.!!!

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