Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?
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- #542
- Thread starter
- #543
These wiper arms haven't seen these nut covers for a good many years... kind of a nice setup. 
I have GOT to get me some nut covers.
Color looks great. are you going to respray the whole tub at once?
Color looks great. are you going to respray the whole tub at once?
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- #545
Good idea to keep your nuts covered!
Thanks. Respray - probably the miker approach - piece at a time. Maybe the fenders, aprons, bib, hood, etc. Still got some body work on the rear quarters and they will probably need sand-able primer. Inside needs paint too. May pull everything back off at some point, mask off the undercarriage and go from there. Pulled the fiberglass top from the top sides the other day, needs a new liner but the hardtop in general looks good. Still need to take apart the passenger door for paint/upgrades - driver's side now works really well with the new glass tracks, rubber, etc. The list goes on... and I'm kicking around different ideas moving forward.
- Thread starter
- #546
Forget Walking Dead season 3 - I'm watching PinHead carb rebuild videos 
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- #547
I guess something always needs go wrong. Woofed up one of my main jets with an ill chosen screwdriver. Didn't think I was going to get it out for a while. Ground down a big, nice Snapon screwdriver I've had for years because the fit was perfect - and it worked. I guess I have a special "jet" screwdriver now.
Dumb question - can I use this jet as long as the hole is good? And where do/would I get a replacement, Toyota, SOR?
Looks like a small 1/4" drive, 9mm Snapon socket is a perfect fit for the hard to reach Power Valve.
Dumb question - can I use this jet as long as the hole is good? And where do/would I get a replacement, Toyota, SOR?
Looks like a small 1/4" drive, 9mm Snapon socket is a perfect fit for the hard to reach Power Valve.
twoturtlesracing
Slowwly but surely...
I can't really advise on the jet- although I have smoothed the face and continued to run them that way from PO mishaps.
But, what I was going to comment on, was to say you need a shop stool the appropriate height- makes the whole carb rebuild experience even more enjoyable.
But, what I was going to comment on, was to say you need a shop stool the appropriate height- makes the whole carb rebuild experience even more enjoyable.
That would probably work fine, but I'd replace it at the local dealer.
These are the jet part numbers for 78 US Spec Carb.
JET, 1ST MAIN
90999‑41124 ID=1.24 CALIFORNIA SPEC. 1 $7.00
90999‑41136 ID=1.36 1 $7.31
JET, 2ND MAIN
90999‑42138 ID=1.38 HIGH ALTITUDE SPEC. 1 $5.81
90999‑42171 ID=1.71 CALIFORNIA SPEC. 1 $7.08
These are the jet part numbers for 78 US Spec Carb.
JET, 1ST MAIN
90999‑41124 ID=1.24 CALIFORNIA SPEC. 1 $7.00
90999‑41136 ID=1.36 1 $7.31
JET, 2ND MAIN
90999‑42138 ID=1.38 HIGH ALTITUDE SPEC. 1 $5.81
90999‑42171 ID=1.71 CALIFORNIA SPEC. 1 $7.08
- Thread starter
- #550
Thanks edwjmcgrath.
But where do I get these (and where did you get the numbers)?
My local Toyota guy says they can't get them anymore and SOR lists a bunch of "Discontinued-No longer available" jets.
And how does one tell what the original Primary (Brass) and Sec (Chrome) sizes were for a Federal/High?CA, etc.?
You are right, I guess that these are no longer available. These numbers are in the parts guide available for viewing at your dealer.
twoturtlesracing
Slowwly but surely...
I am betting calling Mark A. or Jim C. is going to be one of your few options. This is the reason I finally sent off my carb to Mark to get it rebuilt- couldn't find jets. 
however, I did discover something, as I was rebuilding a '72 carb at the same time: the older keyster kits for the carbs that had extra jets in the bowl plugs- (eg 72 & etc- maybe up to 74) came with jets, and when I ordered my rebuild kit from Kurt at Cruiser outfitters, I got a keyster kit that had jets! Now some of these jets were for non us applications so it's a bit of a crap shoot, but either way, one can take a smaller jet size and drill it to the desired size. A number of members on this board have done it: Degnol is the first that comes to mind.
HTH.
however, I did discover something, as I was rebuilding a '72 carb at the same time: the older keyster kits for the carbs that had extra jets in the bowl plugs- (eg 72 & etc- maybe up to 74) came with jets, and when I ordered my rebuild kit from Kurt at Cruiser outfitters, I got a keyster kit that had jets! Now some of these jets were for non us applications so it's a bit of a crap shoot, but either way, one can take a smaller jet size and drill it to the desired size. A number of members on this board have done it: Degnol is the first that comes to mind.HTH.
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Yes, that's how my carb SST's are made.
Yes. With a good jet driver, it will be fine.
No. Observe that the hex is barely inside the socket. The PV spring is too tall to fit in a shallow socket. Use a 1/4dr 6pt. deep 9mm.
- Thread starter
- #554
No. Observe that the hex is barely inside the socket. The PV spring is too tall to fit in a shallow socket. Use a 1/4dr 6pt. deep 9mm.
Hope I didn't screw up (PV) on this.
The image is a little deceptive, the spring is pushing the nut out of the socket. With a gentle push it tucks right into the socket (collapsing the spring a bit). The little mark on the brass is because I grabbed a 10mm first until I realized it was 9mm. 
Hopefully the spring is ok, it all seemed normal (spring action) when I put it back in... Maybe I can get a set of deep 1/4 inch drive sockets for Christmas. Thanks again for all the advice. I actually found a .055 inch reamer in my old stuff which seemed to do nice job on the jet so I should be around 1.40 mm now - I'll see if I can find something a bit bigger/closer to the 1.45 or 1.50.
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- #555
Two strange things about my venturis:
1) Were not "rattle" loose but not very tight either...
2) Both were "double" (with the number 1) and appear to be the same (no triple)?
Everything looks original - no messed up screws, etc.?
EDIT:
Found this in a closed thread... (I did mark mine and put them back the same way)
Question: Are the venturis in this carb supposed to be the same? The fsm indicates that there should be one triple and one double venturi. The attached picture is what I found inside my carb. Could this be causing my idle problem, or is this correct as pictured?
Pin_Head reply:
I have a disassembled '78 carb (April 78) and the primary and sedcondary nozzles appear to be identical by everything I was able to measure. Never the less, I marked their primary and secondary locations in case there is some internal difference that is not obvious. This is unlike other years, where the primary and secondary nozzles are different. If I had to guess, I would pick the one on the left as the primary, because it has more carbon on it than the other one. My experience is that the more time you spend paying attention to where thinngs were located during disassembly, the more likely you will succeed.
1) Were not "rattle" loose but not very tight either...
2) Both were "double" (with the number 1) and appear to be the same (no triple)?
Everything looks original - no messed up screws, etc.?
EDIT:
Found this in a closed thread... (I did mark mine and put them back the same way)
Question: Are the venturis in this carb supposed to be the same? The fsm indicates that there should be one triple and one double venturi. The attached picture is what I found inside my carb. Could this be causing my idle problem, or is this correct as pictured?
Pin_Head reply:
I have a disassembled '78 carb (April 78) and the primary and sedcondary nozzles appear to be identical by everything I was able to measure. Never the less, I marked their primary and secondary locations in case there is some internal difference that is not obvious. This is unlike other years, where the primary and secondary nozzles are different. If I had to guess, I would pick the one on the left as the primary, because it has more carbon on it than the other one. My experience is that the more time you spend paying attention to where thinngs were located during disassembly, the more likely you will succeed.
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FSM was written for 1975 2F, which has single ring and double ring boosters.
77-later carbs are double/double. There are differences in the emulsion tube and air jet, so try to keep the boosters in the correct hole.
77-later carbs are double/double. There are differences in the emulsion tube and air jet, so try to keep the boosters in the correct hole.
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- #557
Got the carb back in. Short test run with the idle/air mix screw just set at the 1 and 1/2 turns out. All the stumble from idle to higher rpm is gone and driving along in gear I no longer get the on/off the gas pedal "jerk" of the engine trying to get the RPMs up.
Opened up the main jet to 1.50 (thanks again Jim C) and not only does it seem to run better - I think maybe it smells less. Need more time to test adjust.
And now I have new SST carb tools, special jet screwdriver and a chopped off 12mm open-end. Never found new jets for sale, and ended up with 2 rebuild kits. Got a Keyster kit from Kurt. Then of course the secondary was bad. Kurt didn't have one in stock, Napa ordered an alternative instead of the correct Hygrade number I gave them. Finally got the Hygrade (older one I think - had copper washers, etc.) so now I have a few spare parts.
Opened up the main jet to 1.50 (thanks again Jim C) and not only does it seem to run better - I think maybe it smells less. Need more time to test adjust.
And now I have new SST carb tools, special jet screwdriver and a chopped off 12mm open-end. Never found new jets for sale, and ended up with 2 rebuild kits. Got a Keyster kit from Kurt. Then of course the secondary was bad. Kurt didn't have one in stock, Napa ordered an alternative instead of the correct Hygrade number I gave them. Finally got the Hygrade (older one I think - had copper washers, etc.) so now I have a few spare parts.
- Thread starter
- #558
Carburetor was great for a while. Then I left a store in San Mateo to drive home a few days ago and started getting sputtering and bad "off-idle" again. Got home and stuck a tach on the hot engine and the idle was low so I set it back to 650 and adjusted the idle/air intake screw again. Ran better and the next few short trips seemed ok but wasn't running like it was when I first put the carb back on. Went to vote yesterday with the added bonus of finding some dirt to drive/park on (behind the local Fire/Poll station). On the way home started to sputter again - dirty gas like. Took a closer look at the carb and the accelerator pump was completely locked up. 
Pulled the carb again today and found the accelerator pump, pump outlet and ball all working fine - but the spray jet (just the small hole itself) was completely clogged with a very small chunk of gunk (technical term). With the good seal/pressure the pump could not push gas out the jet. Very gently took the smallest drill rod I could find, loosened up the gunk in the hole and blew out a little splatter of brown grunge. This after the carb body had earlier been dipped, sprayed out repeatedly with air, carb cleaner sprayed through all passages (that same jet a number of times), etc. Everything else in the carb still looked spotless (new gas line filter put on earlier).
Only thing I can figure is a small piece of gunk was left hidden somewhere (like the base of the pump around the ball, etc. where I cleaned out a lot of stuff earlier) and later worked it's way up to the jet after a few days. Now everything is back on the truck and the pump is delivering a strong shot of gas from the pump jet. Test drive maybe tomorrow.
Pulled the carb again today and found the accelerator pump, pump outlet and ball all working fine - but the spray jet (just the small hole itself) was completely clogged with a very small chunk of gunk (technical term
). With the good seal/pressure the pump could not push gas out the jet. Very gently took the smallest drill rod I could find, loosened up the gunk in the hole and blew out a little splatter of brown grunge. This after the carb body had earlier been dipped, sprayed out repeatedly with air, carb cleaner sprayed through all passages (that same jet a number of times), etc. Everything else in the carb still looked spotless (new gas line filter put on earlier).Only thing I can figure is a small piece of gunk was left hidden somewhere (like the base of the pump around the ball, etc. where I cleaned out a lot of stuff earlier) and later worked it's way up to the jet after a few days. Now everything is back on the truck and the pump is delivering a strong shot of gas from the pump jet. Test drive maybe tomorrow.
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If you have rubber fuel line anywhere , that could be the culprit . This ethanol crap is eating fuel lines very rapidly , breaking them down from the inside out . I've switched everything I work on to a new blue line that is being used in atvs, sleds , ect . It's available in rolls from Harley dealers nationwide in their aftermarket book....
Sarge
Sarge
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- #560
Interesting - I've got old black (I guess they're rubber) lines around the tank...
