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- #521
Thanks - I'll give it a shot and post up what happens. I'll also ask the paint guy at some point if he knows of any "chemical" bonding/other disadvantage to no reducer in the mix.
Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gusb
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Thanks - I'll give it a shot and post up what happens. I'll also ask the paint guy at some point if he knows of any "chemical" bonding/other disadvantage to no reducer in the mix.
- Thread starter
- #522
Omni - MTX 2.8 VOC Single Stage - Update
Took my door test to the paint guy with the FJ40 and we decided (in sunlight) the match was pretty close. He said the paint was going down really nice for single-stage. Also said I could cut the reducer to whatever as long as it sprayed without problems. So I picked up a mixed gallon which he put into 4 quarts (shelf-life).
Tried a 4-1 with just a small amount of reducer and I got some bad spatter with the gun on the test paper. Keep in mind this is my little SATA minijet and a 1.4 nozzle. Increased the reducer to 4-1-1 (spec sheet was 4-1-2) and the gun seemed to spray much better. Maybe a little more orange peel - maybe just the way I handled the gun this time around. Coverage is much, much better! So dropping 1 part reducer has really helped with coverage and the paint is still laying pretty flat. I'm thinking if the door takes me this long the Cruiser should be painted in about ten years.
Took my door test to the paint guy with the FJ40 and we decided (in sunlight) the match was pretty close. He said the paint was going down really nice for single-stage. Also said I could cut the reducer to whatever as long as it sprayed without problems. So I picked up a mixed gallon which he put into 4 quarts (shelf-life).
Tried a 4-1 with just a small amount of reducer and I got some bad spatter with the gun on the test paper. Keep in mind this is my little SATA minijet and a 1.4 nozzle. Increased the reducer to 4-1-1 (spec sheet was 4-1-2) and the gun seemed to spray much better. Maybe a little more orange peel - maybe just the way I handled the gun this time around. Coverage is much, much better! So dropping 1 part reducer has really helped with coverage and the paint is still laying pretty flat. I'm thinking if the door takes me this long the Cruiser should be painted in about ten years.
Looks pretty good Gus. Did you spray the outside of the door (door skin) as well?
Wondering how wide a pattern your gun sprays? The bigger areas are a little easier with a gun that sprays a 10 to 12" width.
Wondering how wide a pattern your gun sprays? The bigger areas are a little easier with a gun that sprays a 10 to 12" width.
- Thread starter
- #524
The first time (with the test pint) I sprayed the inside first and flipped the door to finish the outside. That flip didn't go well (even though I had practiced it a few times). So this time I decided to carefully do the inside, and let it dry before doing the outside later. Drives me nuts with all the setup to not do the whole thing but short of building a rotisserie of some some kind...
The whole door (outside surfaces) has been sealed with EP. The outside skin has that first coat of Omni, gently but thoroughly roughed with 320 pad/paper for this pass (as did the inside I just painted). The small gun is a challenge on the larger flats, but the initial Omni transparency/coverage was I think the main problem - I'd get a bigger gun - if only I had a larger compressor... I'll put up photos when the outside is painted.
Hang it...
- Thread starter
- #526
That's the obvious solution - but short of some half-donkey hooks/cables in the ceiling... The door has some weight to it even with the guts out. I thought about a simple rack (maybe 2 x 2 tube) on casters that could be used for other parts. Maybe mount lights on the cross beam... Put 33s on it and drive it around the garage...
Might be able to use an engine stand. Would have to make some brackets to mount the different pieces. Engine stands are pretty cheap. Can get a Harbor freight one for about $60. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html
Maybe add some outriggers if it seemed like it needed it for the piece you were painting.
Maybe add some outriggers if it seemed like it needed it for the piece you were painting.
- Thread starter
- #528
I would say at best it's about 7-8 inches which everyone says is big for a small touchup gun.
- Thread starter
- #529
I always thought this thing was kind of cool - and maybe not that hard to build something like it. The engine stand might be a good base/start.
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hanging works good. done it a lot. the only thing I don't like about haning is that during drying time, its hard to move the piece without taking a risk of doing something destructive to the fresh paint. when its on wheels, you can move it easier. and then paint something else. assuming you have limited space.
- Thread starter
- #532
The process continues - sort of. 
One thing I've learned is if you start with spotty uneven coverage it's hard to work your way back. But the paint is doing a better job with less reducer/thinner and the little gun though not perfect (on larger areas) seems to be OK as long as I don't mess up. No runs - and I put down some paint.
Looking at the door tonight I started thinking the paint was too brown - looks closer - not so dark, out in the sunlight. But I guess I'm going with it. Need some additional real life opinions. I may at some point try rubbing out the door and polishing a little - not so much to eliminate orange peel but to see how the color/shine react. See if it tones down a bit.
Getting some internal door parts together, ordered new nylon door hinge bushings from Kurt. That's the used window run support (with new runner) I picked up on ebay to replace what PO ripped out (patched the hole in the door jam) and tossed. I might temporarily put the doors back on for CA winter.
Anyone know how long that Omni single-stage takes to "completely" cure?
One thing I've learned is if you start with spotty uneven coverage it's hard to work your way back. But the paint is doing a better job with less reducer/thinner and the little gun though not perfect (on larger areas) seems to be OK as long as I don't mess up. No runs - and I put down some paint.Looking at the door tonight I started thinking the paint was too brown - looks closer - not so dark, out in the sunlight. But I guess I'm going with it. Need some additional real life opinions. I may at some point try rubbing out the door and polishing a little - not so much to eliminate orange peel but to see how the color/shine react. See if it tones down a bit.
Getting some internal door parts together, ordered new nylon door hinge bushings from Kurt. That's the used window run support (with new runner) I picked up on ebay to replace what PO ripped out (patched the hole in the door jam) and tossed. I might temporarily put the doors back on for CA winter.
Anyone know how long that Omni single-stage takes to "completely" cure?
It won't be completely cured for a month. I wouldn't handle it for a couple of days, to be safe. The hotter it is, the shorter it will be.
The color looks pretty good with a couple degrees of separation. Put something original up next to it and take a picture.
The color looks pretty good with a couple degrees of separation. Put something original up next to it and take a picture.
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
- Thread starter
- #535
Got the doors back on for winter. Good chance to compare old paint to the new Omni mix. Much more in the "brown" direction now but I'm thinking it's better than too much toward the "green" - any opinions? 
First photo in the sun, second two photos in the shade.
First photo in the sun, second two photos in the shade.
- Thread starter
- #536
More OEM parts - black wiper blades and the little plastic nut covers - guess those were stock?
Carb kit (after-market from Kurt).
Carb kit (after-market from Kurt).
- Thread starter
- #537
Managed to pound the damaged lock area (PO crash) out with no Bondo - not perfect but close.
Even hammered out the lock body (still missing the shutter) and got a rubber pad/ring from a local locksmith. Can't get a straight story on just replacing one lock.
Even hammered out the lock body (still missing the shutter) and got a rubber pad/ring from a local locksmith. Can't get a straight story on just replacing one lock.
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I'm supposed to be searching for a job but always find myself on ih8mud. I just spent the last two hours reading your thread, it was awesome!! Cant wait to see it painted. Maybe i'll look for a job tomorrow.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
volcom79 said:I'm supposed to be searching for a job but always find myself on ih8mud. I just spent the last two hours reading your thread, it was awesome!! Cant wait to see it painted. Maybe i'll look for a job tomorrow.
Now that is classic...
Looks great Gus! That 40 will be like new when you are finished. 
