SOR Sliding Window Install (in late model hardtop) (1 Viewer)

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Several people asked, so here it is. The metal window frame bars were easy to cutout with the angle grinder.


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I was a little nervous to cut these out in the event that the windows did not fit. Luckily i have an extra set of sides.

The windows fit very snugly. There is a channel that fits the edges pf the frame just the was the factory windshield stripping fits, however. It is aluminum and does not flex. I had to slightly grind off the factory overlap that had been left between the two halves of the hard top. With a little help from a friend, the pop right in.



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Inside the channel is some high density foam that rests against the lip. The design provides an aluminum frame that is slightly larger than the frame which screws on from the inside to hold the window in tightly.


as you can see, the window recesses into the hardtop side, unlike the factory sliders. I was pleasantly surprised because II much prefer this to the way factory sliders stick out. No offense, purists!
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More pics will be posted later as I prime the top and finish up the build.
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subscribed! interested in doing this mod also but.......
 
Have you water tested these? I have heard of leaking issues?

Rob:beer:
 
Couple things:

There are no instructions which is no big deal. I was a little nervous at first until I realized the window is rounded on the corner closest to the door catch. So there definitely is a left and right.

I mentioned before that i had to trim the window. The hard top is made of two stamped pieces that are spot welded together. Well, they aren't all aligned perfectly. I merely ground off the overhang, which was probably as much as 2mm in spots. One odd thing is the fact that one window is tapped with three screws and the other with 5. I will add more later.

When you install the window, you are best off having the panel flat, or a helper with a strong grip on the frame. You must put the rear end in first. You must now push that end upward (if you are doing this flat) or outward if you have it attached to the cap. This will allow you to pop the third less rounded corner in with a little twist. Once that is in, you are golden. Pop your round corner in last and then fasten the aluminum backing plate from the inside.

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The window fits very snug. It is probably one of the best fitting aftermarket parts I have ever installed. You can see how it sits perfectly recessed in the factory frame.

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My ambulance door windows are already tinted (came that way) so i just need to have the corners tinted. This is helpful in texas when the top goes on for the winter just to have random 90 degree days in december.



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That is coming along great!

I like those sliding windows, and for sure they are best for ventilation, what I don't understand is why SOR makes them in such a dark color. Why can't they do it in factory colored glass? New glass technologies makes it irrelevant as to UV factors if the glass is dark or not. My opinion.
 
That is coming along great!

I like those sliding windows, and for sure they are best for ventilation, what I don't understand is why SOR makes them in such a dark color. Why can't they do it in factory colored glass? New glass technologies makes it irrelevant as to UV factors if the glass is dark or not. My opinion.

Couldn't agree more. If it wasn't for the tint, this would be high on my list.
 
I really like this option. My wife doesn't like riding in the 40 when I take the doors off.
Did you apply any sealer around the frame before installing the window's?

Gregg.
 
Thats the only comment i have that needs revision. The screw holes allow for more metal screws ( coarse ).

One side has three screws and holes tapped, the other had five. You can use the existing holes to more securely fasten the window.

It really doesnt protrude past the lip of the bottom of the hard top side. I can measure and i will show some installed pictures as soon as i have my hardtop gasket in.
 

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