Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)

[duffontap]

Thanks - I'm making this the last thing I try. My manuals don't seem to offer an "on vehicle" procedure.

This is a simple adjustment that keeps steering wheel freeplay within service manual spec (max 40 mm/ 1.57"). It takes the slop out of the steering, tightening up the connection between what your hand does on the wheel and what the pitman arm does--which is one of a couple important aspects of safe steering.

This is the adjustable portion on the gear that you will find behind the heat shield:



Here are instructions:



The adjustment took my freeplay from 2.25" to .5-.75" I still need to replace TREs and rebuild my center arm, but my freeplay is within spec, and it makes a huge difference.

 

[Gusb]

This is a simple adjustment that keeps steering wheel freeplay within service manual spec (max 40 mm/ 1.57"). It takes the slop out of the steering, tightening up the connection between what your hand does on the wheel and what the pitman arm does--which is one of a couple important aspects of safe steering.

Very cool - duffontap this info is much appreciated. I have 2 service manuals (related to steering) - one is a reprint (seems newer, covers PS, etc.) and an original copyright 1978 and neither has any info on this adjustment. That looks like a newer steering wheel (79+) in your drawing, do you by chance copyright/date info on your service manual?

I pulled the steering wheel off today, the PO had it positioned like 20 degrees off the straight track with the "T" logo upside down. So it's been messed with in the past but looks pretty original/good inside. If I remember the aftermarket tach was attached to the steering post with some kind of clamp, etc. I removed that stuff when I got the truck but I left everything aligned as it was for the time being, just to make sure something else I was ignorant to wasn't causing the offset. And the logo padded button was missing 1 (of 3) of the 4 x .5 mm long screws (with a point ground on the end) that Toyota says are no longer available.

Also experimented with the center arm today and realized if the adjustment is not backed off enough (a bit too tight) - one can easily create a situation where the steering will not right itself from a turn and is not even able to correct itself back into a straight tracking line - not good.

I would say I've got about 1.750 to 2.1 inches of play at the steering wheel related to your diagram, so I'll give this a shot ASAP. The only thing I'm wondering is if it would be better to have the front wheels off the ground to do the "full turn both ways" binding check?

Thanks again.

 

[duffontap]

I would say I've got about 1.750 to 2.1 inches of play at the steering wheel related to your diagram, so I'll give this a shot ASAP. The only thing I'm wondering is if it would be better to have the front wheels off the ground to do the "full turn both ways" binding check?

Thanks again.

For sure. You want to make sure there are no tight spots--lock to lock. Over tightening will also cause faster wear in the worm gear, but this will be a pretty common-sense/intuitive adjustment for someone with your skills.

BTW, all I have is the Haynes manual which doesn't include any info on steering. I should have mentioned, but I robbed that pic from someone--amaurer posted it.

 

[Gusb]

Testing the OME suspension began over the weekend - before Miker arrived.
Not sure where the Christmas tree will go . . .

 

[thecrazygreek]

Nice looking crew ya got there... The boy has that nice "this is awesome" grin on his face...

 

[Fast Eddy]

I'm wondering is if it would be better to have the front wheels off the ground to do the "full turn both ways" binding check?

In my experience, they only bind when centered. That's why you adjust it with it centered. If you turn it one turn either way and adjust it tight, it will not go past the center.

You do not want it fully tight or it will wear out quicker. Get the free play within spec without tightening the adjuster all the way. Zero free play is not what you want. Shoot for 25mm or so.

The center arm can surely be tightened too much too. If you didn't clean it out, I'm sure you need to do so. It will be full of crusty old grease at the bottom and make adjusting it impossible.

 

[Gusb]

OK - found the adjustment under the heat shield, looked like it had never been touched before. Had a heck of a time getting the screw free on the nut though (after loosening the nut) - almost as if someone had used something like Locktight, etc. at some point - factory maybe? Finally got it to move enough to get some adjustment, thanks to a 3/8 socket screwdriver. Got the free play at the steering wheel down in the 30mm or less range. Could probably take out a little more later, just trying to be careful until other things are worked out.

Seemed to make a big difference on the road so this may be a big part of what's been going on. Still not perfect of course, I'll continue to try and make things better. Kind of weird changing lanes at 55 but a lot of that could be the short wheelbase and the mud tires. And hey - the steering wheel is more or less oriented correctly tracking straight down the road.

Anyone know where to find those logo button screws with the pointed end - I'm going to check with SOR?

 

[duffontap]

Got the free play at the steering wheel down in the 30mm or less range. Could probably take out a little more later, just trying to be careful until other things are worked out.

Seemed to make a big difference on the road so this may be a big part of what's been going on.

It made a bid difference for me too. Glad it helped. JD

 

[SSCR]

Gusb, how is riding down the highway on your BFG Mud-Terrains? I bought the same tires and I am a little concerned on how they will feel going 60- 70 MPH. My steering is being rebuilt and will have a mini-truck set up installed. Thanks, awesome rig!

 

[Gusb]

Gusb, how is riding down the highway on your BFG Mud-Terrains? I bought the same tires and I am a little concerned on how they will feel going 60- 70 MPH. My steering is being rebuilt and will have a mini-truck set up installed. Thanks, awesome rig!

Not sure I've gone 70 - 60 seems OK but with all the other steering stuff going on I need more time to form an opinion on the tires. They seem low noise for mud tires but they are new - I expect them to get louder when they wear a bit.

 

[SSCR]

Good news on the noise factor, thanks-

 

[Gusb]

The holy grail for many old vehicle owners in California - a smog certificate!

Drove around for 40 minutes today and stopped at the Smog Test Only guy and passed smog. Really big deal around here.

 

[DSRTRDR]

The holy grail for many old vehicle owners in California - a smog certificate!

Drove around for 40 minutes today and stopped at the Smog Test Only guy and passed smog. Really big deal around here.

I need to get my 40 smogged in two weeks

 

[Gusb]

Got OEM rear jump seat straps on the long "to buy" list for future. Meanwhile the jump seats have been jumping - so I made up some temporary straps to hold the seats up. Nice thing about these is there's a place to nest the rear seat belts so they don't bang around either. Used some old camera bag plastic hardware with a brass grommet in each strap.

 

[DSRTRDR]

dig the purple

 

[Gusb]

Replaced all the rotted out seals on my tie rod ends, relay rod, etc. and greased everything up. Tightened up the drag link (per Miker's suggestion) at the pitman arm and also ordered a new replacement spring - the old one appears too compressed. Tightened the steering box gear play a little more. Steering seems better - still need to get in for an alignment check.

Funny the things you find amiss on a 40 over time. I always knew somebody had been inside the timing gear cover at some point. My crank pulley seemed a little roughed up and when I replaced all the cooling stuff I could see a lot of sealant around the bolt pattern on the timing cover that didn't exactly look stock .

Now that the truck is back on the road I've noticed a small oil drip on the garage floor. Nothing that shows on the dip stick and only when it's hot and has run for a while. Today I crawled under and looked around for leaks and found oil buildup at the bottom of the timing cover. Looking closer (up under the splash shield that mounts under the radiator), I can see the bottom bolts are loose and aren't even screwed all the way in (1/8 " gap - much less torqued)! So it looks like someone put the cover on with lots of sealant and either didn't bother because of access or forgot. I'm assuming the only correct way to fix this is pull the cover, maybe check inside and replace the cover correctly? Wish I had noticed this when the radiator was out.

Also wondering if the red sheet metal shield with the little access plate in this area is stock (factory painted red, I'll get a pict up)? My fan guard above is the same red color.

May just try to tighten them up a bit for now - I really want to get going on my doors...

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you can get to the bolts, why not just tighten them? I don't remember any access plate. Hmm. Nothing was red from the factory unless it was the body.

 

[miker]

Today I crawled under and looked around for leaks and found oil buildup at the bottom of the timing cover. Looking closer (up under the splash shield that mounts under the radiator), I can see the bottom bolts are loose and aren't even screwed all the way in (1/8 " gap - much less torqued)!

May just try to tighten them up a bit for now - I really want to get going on my doors...

Take note that not all the timing cover bolts are the same length. Check the FSM for position. Just thinking that maybe the bolts that look loose could be bottomed out b/c someone put them in the wrong location.

 

[Gusb]

Here's the red fan shroud from the top ... I cleaned a spot.

The lower access shield door removed.

And looking down from the top - the lower red shield located under the radiator frame.

Hard to believe someone would have removed/replaced this stuff - it sure looks original?

 

[Gusb]

Take note that not all the timing cover bolts are the same length. Check the FSM for position. Just thinking that maybe the bolts that look loose could be bottomed out b/c someone put them in the wrong location.

Interesting point - from what I tell in my FSM the 2 bottom bolts are the longest - with 2 other odd balls higher up. Not sure if the part numbers are showing the length?

Looking toward the crank pulley from driver-side-front down low through that little red access area you can almost see the 2 lower bolts (3 in diagram). And the manual calls for sealer on those bottom bolts. Much closer view is possible down under with your face slammed right up on the oil pan.

If I can get access I'll try to tighten those up a bit and hopefully won't worsen the leak in the process.