Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (33 Viewers)

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@BenCC , I read through the thread. Really cool stuff! Glad you're doing this.

I have a question: Are you producing these components from actual ABS or an ABS-like SLA material? I live in Phoenix, and my understanding is that SLA parts dont normally have the longevity associated with actual engineering polymers, and therefore I could run into issues with dimensional stability in a high heat conditions like my truck sitting in the Phoenix summer.
 
@BenCC , I read through the thread. Really cool stuff! Glad you're doing this.

I have a question: Are you producing these components from actual ABS or an ABS-like SLA material? I live in Phoenix, and my understanding is that SLA parts dont normally have the longevity associated with actual engineering polymers, and therefore I could run into issues with dimensional stability in a high heat conditions like my truck sitting in the Phoenix summer.

Some are printed with ABS filament. Some are SLA printed with resin.

For ABS, its glass translation temperature is 105 deg C or 220 deg F. It is a good material for car’s interior parts.

Resin is a heatset polymer, whose dimensional stability under high heat is characterized by HDT, Heat Deflection Temperature or Heat Distortion Temperature. HDT is the temperature the polymer deforms under a specific load. HDT of the material I use is 75 deg C or 165 deg F. In Arizona, the interior temperature can go up or beyond 165 deg F. It doesn’t mean the part will lose its dimensional stability if the interior temperature goes up to 165 deg F, because all these parts are under very low load.

Your concern is legit. I have that too. So I only sell ABS and resin printed parts.
 
Some are printed with ABS filament. Some are SLA printed with resin.

For ABS, its glass translation temperature is 105 deg C or 220 deg F. It is a good material for car’s interior parts.

Resin is a heatset polymer, whose dimensional stability under high heat is characterized by HDT, Heat Deflection Temperature or Heat Distortion Temperature. HDT is the temperature the polymer deforms under a specific load. HDT of the material I use is 75 deg C or 165 deg F. In Arizona, the interior temperature can go up or beyond 165 deg F. It doesn’t mean the part will lose its dimensional stability if the interior temperature goes up to 165 deg F, because all these parts are under very low load.

Your concern is legit. I have that too. So I only sell ABS and resin printed parts.

Let me know when you want me to run a few parts for you... ;) Just bump the price accordingly and call it the "Phoenix Premium Material."

1574140382481.png
 
Received my 6 switch holder yesterday and I am blown away with the quality and little details. I've purchased one other 3D printed item in the past and was woefully disappointed in the quality. The part I got from @BenCC was substantially better and refined. Nice work.

Yes. Plan is to make it look factory and use that place more effectively.

Replace this whole piece.
View attachment 2136713
An ashtray delete would be great for this piece. USB connection for aftermarket radio, Blue Seas fast charge usb socket (or 2), 12v socket, a RJ45 mount to plug a Kenwood Mic into, etc. This will be a fun one to watch develop.
 
If we're going nuts here...

What's stopping us from replacing the panels in the cargo area with new ones with plugs and switches built in? Like the extra accessory pockets? Would have plenty of room behind the panels for wiring and whatnot.

I'm thinking of both driving use and camping/sleeping use. There's a ton of potential in the back for more products like this.

@BenCC , if you didn't start out looking for a viable business, I think you've found one.
 
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Not sure if it is possible to make a small pocket that can be inserted in the previous opening or if it's possible to make something that can replace the entire console insert to make one big area.

View attachment 2131260

The full insert is NLA by Toyota, I managed to find mine used after a months long search.

@BenCC I would be willing to send it to you in an effort to improve parts availability for the group, many people are doing the NAV deletes, which I also deleted the CD changer. I’d just need it back before spring 2020.
 
This thread is awesome.... I was thinking the door ashtray slots for the passengers should be fitted with USB ports? that way people can charge their phones while on the door pocket. Those ashtrays are useless and are easy to pop out.
 
Received my 6 switch holder yesterday and I am blown away with the quality and little details. I've purchased one other 3D printed item in the past and was woefully disappointed in the quality. The part I got from @BenCC was substantially better and refined. Nice work.


An ashtray delete would be great for this piece. USB connection for aftermarket radio, Blue Seas fast charge usb socket (or 2), 12v socket, a RJ45 mount to plug a Kenwood Mic into, etc. This will be a fun one to watch develop.
A fun and difficult project
 
This thread is awesome.... I was thinking the door ashtray slots for the passengers should be fitted with USB ports? that way people can charge their phones while on the door pocket. Those ashtrays are useless and are easy to pop out.
Listed in the Suggested Projects.
 
If we're going nuts here...

What's stopping us from replacing the panels in the cargo area with new ones with plugs and switches built in? Like the extra accessory pockets? Would have plenty of room behind the panels for wiring and whatnot.

I'm thinking of both driving use and camping/sleeping use. There's a ton of potential in the back for more products like this.

@BenCC , if you didn't start out looking for a viable business, I think you've found one.
Need to finish my graduate school first lol.
 
This thread is awesome.... I was thinking the door ashtray slots for the passengers should be fitted with USB ports? that way people can charge their phones while on the door pocket. Those ashtrays are useless and are easy to pop out.

Great idea, but a PITA to wire...
 
Make 11: Scangauge II Mount with 12V Outlet or USB Ports

11.1 Overview of the Final Product

View attachment 2135201

11.2 Introduction

This is based on one of the requests. The 12V outlet provides power for GPS, radar detector, or dash cam. You can either install a 12V socket or a USB charger.

11.3 Design and Fabrication

This is a variation of Make 1.

11.4 Purchase List to Complete the Installation

12V Socket

USB Charger 2.1 A

USB Charger 4.8A

11.5 Purchase Link

$49 + $7.9 (USPS Priority). Printed in ABS. PM for Direct Paypal Payment.
This is great.
One question, can the plug go on the opposite side so it does not block the view of the scanguage?
I am committed to one of these in tan.
Really great work.
 
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This is great.
One question, can the plug go on the opposite side so it does not block the view of the scanguage?
I am committed to one of these in tan.
Really great work.
Yes. A simple mirror operation will get the model that the plug is on the right.

2019-11-19_13-27-37.jpg
 
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Let me know when you want me to run a few parts for you... ;) Just bump the price accordingly and call it the "Phoenix Premium Material."

View attachment 2136841
Onyx is the king of civilian printers. If anyone want to print my makes in Onyx, I will work with @suprarx7nut.

suprarx7nut, you can show some parts printed with Onyx.
 
You could tap into the constant 12v off the window motor

Current required for a single USB 3.0 = ~0.9 amps to 1.5 amps

What gauge is the 12v window motor wire? If it is 20 ga or thinner, you might overload the wire. (I'm not an engineer, but I'm sure someone with a better grasp on wire load limits could chime in)

Nonetheless, it might be worth running new wires. USB would get used, whereas my ashtrays will not.
 
Current required for a single USB 3.0 = ~0.9 amps to 1.5 amps

What gauge is the 12v window motor wire? If it is 20 ga or thinner, you might overload the wire. (I'm not an engineer, but I'm sure someone with a better grasp on wire load limits could chime in)

Nonetheless, it might be worth running new wires. USB would get used, whereas my ashtrays will not.
The power of fast dual USB chargers is 24W, which is 4.8A at 5V. Assuming an efficiency of 80%, the required power is 30W, which is 2.5A at 12V. 16 AWG wire should handle that. Correct, if both ports were being used, the wire would be overloaded. If only one USB 2.4A is uded, 20 AWG wire is OK.

 
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Onyx is the king of civilian printers. If anyone want to print my makes in Onyx, I will work with @suprarx7nut.

suprarx7nut, you can show some parts printed with Onyx.

Sure. I've got more example shots at home, but here's one that shows "out of the printer" surface finish on a really small part. That clip thing is about 2" long.

1574191137534.png


The Onyx material is a chopped carbon fiber within nylon. The carbon is deep black with an almost metallic light reflection appearance. Most parts can be printed so that step lines can be minimized enough that it doesn't look obviously printed.

This one is zoomed out enough that it's kinda hard to see surface finish, but gives a good idea on the "5 footer" appearance. This part is maybe 3" wide.

1574191249029.png



Most 3D printer material is for prototyping or very light use. This Onyx material is "engineering grade" with many companies using these parts "as printed" in permanent tooling applications. As @BenCC , the "king" of desktop printers.

If you live in a really hot climate or need extra strength for some reason, I'd strongly advise you to ask @BenCC about the option to print using this material.
 

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