Builds Bean! The Adventure Continues (1987 FJ60) (1 Viewer)

[Bullzi]

Along the same lines and same procedure as the rear hatch panel, I also took the opportunity to create and weld in some mounting points for the rear drawer system. Previously it was a two person job to through-bolt them in, but now I will be able to easily bolt the drawers in from the top!

As with the hatch flange, I bent the metal strips to conform to the ribs I would be bolting to:

I then welded on nuts:

The holes were already in the back of the cargo area, but I cleaned the areas up for welding.

I cleaned the underside and added weld-through primer to the areas that would not get painted after welding. Next I tacked the mounting points in. I used a mounting point flange instead of a single nut to help distribute the load. If the Bean ever rolled over, I wouldn't want the drawers to go flying!

I still had some epoxy primer left, so these got the good stuff!

I also smothered them in seam sealer!

Lastly I added some Dynomat around the tops to clean everything up.

These will really help me install and remove the drawers quicker...and by myself!

 

[Godwin]

I've been getting some stuff done on the Bean, but it's been super hard to stay motivated in this damp cold PNW weather right now. The shop is typically 35-40 degrees...the wood stove is a saving grace, but does take some time to get the uninsulated shop to about 50 degrees.

Last night I pulled the FJ60 box and put it on the bench for the reseal.

View attachment 2842932

It was pretty messy from the years of leaking. The sector shaft to power piston gear interface feels pretty tight...maybe too tight. The adjuster bolt on the top was screwed pretty far down. I actually had a bit of a struggle turning the input shaft by hand. I've heard if this is too tight, the box can leak from the input seal...maybe that's whats going on?

View attachment 2842947

I broke the box down, but it was hard to tell exactly where it was leaking - you can tell from the faded red top that it was rebuilt by redhead. From what I've been told, the box started leaking soon after the rebuild and they couldn't or wouldn't fix it. I think this has been a common issue with their FJ60 steering box rebuilds.

I noticed that the seals redhead used are not OEM. Also, the input and sector shaft seals seem to have a 1mm larger diameter than the OEM seals...this is probably due to the seal being stretched over their respective shafts, but it made me stop and wonder if they weren't tight enough to give a leak-proof seal.

View attachment 2842933

Lastly and most troublesome is the fact that there were only 40 ball bearings in the power piston when there should have been 44! I was super careful taking these out and removed them over a large metal pan as not to lose any. Maybe this has something to do with why the steering box feels a little sloppy even though the gear interfaces seem tight? I really don't know, but I'm in the process of trying to source 4 more balls. I ordered some through Toyota Parts Deal, but they emailed me this morning and told me they have been discontinued. I am now trying Megazip, but I'm sure I'll get the same response. Time to find out the size and try to source some on the interwebs somewhere!

1987 FJ60 Reseal part numbers:
Reseal kit: 04445-60030
Extra Teflon ring for the power piston (just in case): 90562-67002
Teflon Ring for the steering worm (I have heard reports that the full kit does not come with these, but have not checked): 90562-48001 (2 needed)
Power Piston Balls (these are discontinued but there should be 44 total): 90360-06021

Did you ever find replacement balls? I went through this a couple of years ago and have extra that I can drop in the mail. There not OEM but appear to be a suitable replacement.

 

[Bullzi]

Did you ever find replacement balls? I went through this a couple of years ago and have extra that I can drop in the mail. There not OEM but appear to be a suitable replacement.

That might be just what I need! I have some on order with Megazip and am still waiting to hear back from them. My bet is they will email me today or tomorrow and tell me they are NLA but you never know.

I’ll let you know, I really appreciate the offer!!

 

[Godwin]

That might be just what I need! I have some on order with Megazip and am still waiting to hear back from them. My bet is they will email me today or tomorrow and tell me they are NLA but you never know.

I’ll let you know, I really appreciate the offer!!

If you need them just send me a PM with your address.

 

[cruisermatt]

Very nice job on the fuel sender and access cover. I need to update mine with something similar. Much better then the usual hackjobs on here.
Really nice OEM style captured nuts as well.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

To finish off the underside, I painted the area with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and sealed it with 3M seam sealer. This should prevent any moisture intrusion.

View attachment 2851051

View attachment 2851052

I drilled holes into the flange and used nut-certs to bolt the cover on.
View attachment 2851056

The cover got a few pieces of weather-strip. I also raptor-lined the bottom when I was doing the tailgate and painted the top when I was painting the inner fenders.
View attachment 2851057

The completed hatch cover:
View attachment 2851058

I just installed the fuel tank and am happy to report that the pump hanger lines up perfectly and can easily be removed (I tested it).
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I ended up shooting some Fluid Film on the underside of the cargo area before I installed the fuel tank...there was a small amount of surface rust at the ribbing seams.
View attachment 2851061


This is a strange way to end this post, but have you ever wondered what the difference is between Fluid Film and Fluid Film Black? Here is the comparison:
View attachment 2851062

Ha

To finish off the underside, I painted the area with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and sealed it with 3M seam sealer. This should prevent any moisture intrusion.

View attachment 2851051

View attachment 2851052

I drilled holes into the flange and used nut-certs to bolt the cover on.
View attachment 2851056

The cover got a few pieces of weather-strip. I also raptor-lined the bottom when I was doing the tailgate and painted the top when I was painting the inner fenders.
View attachment 2851057

The completed hatch cover:
View attachment 2851058

I just installed the fuel tank and am happy to report that the pump hanger lines up perfectly and can easily be removed (I tested it).
View attachment 2851059

View attachment 2851060

I ended up shooting some Fluid Film on the underside of the cargo area before I installed the fuel tank...there was a small amount of surface rust at the ribbing seams.
View attachment 2851061


This is a strange way to end this post, but have you ever wondered what the difference is between Fluid Film and Fluid Film Black? Here is the comparison:
View attachment 2851062

your fluid film post struck a nerve. Couldn’t bring myself to use the black. After 1/2 gallon of light color it took a month to get the smell of 100 sheep in the garage out. Thanks for the hatch post. Best I’ve seen making this week

 

[Bullzi]

Ha

your fluid film post struck a nerve. Couldn’t bring myself to use the black. After 1/2 gallon of light color it took a month to get the smell of 100 sheep in the garage out. Thanks for the hatch post. Best I’ve seen making this week

Yea, that sheep smell is no joke!

 

[Bullzi]

Finished up getting the fuel and vent lines installed. I decided to install new vent lines since I had everything apart. I also "refurbished" the bulkhead connector for the vent and overflow lines that go through the rear quarter panel (not sure what the official name of this part is). It was really rusty and needed to be cleaned up a bit.

Here it is all rusted up:

I used a product called Corroseal to convert the rust. It goes on thick and white, but turns purple and then black. It converts the rust and leaves a black protective coating.

I forgot to take a picture of it black, but I think I put it on too thick because it left a thick film. You can supposedly paint over it, but the thick coating was kind of peeling off in spots, so I decided to wash off the excess (it is water-based). It came out much cleaner, but with some surface rust that was not converted very well...

So once again, I painted it with the rust encapsulator and then some black spray paint. after it was dry, I sprayed it with a coat of Cosmoline.

Much better than it was!

For the vent lines, I used a combination of 3/8" and 1/4" generic gates fuel hose. I also sourced some 14mm fuel line for the overflow sections. I found the 14mm hose at Belmetric...I used the hose with a ID of 14mm and OD of 20mm. Strangely, I can no longer find the hose on their site...maybe I got the last bit of it for now? I tried to get the hose from AutohauseAZ because it was cheaper, but the hose OD was 18mm and too thin in my opinion.

Here is the lineup for the 14mm fuel hose: From left to right: Original OEM, Belmetric 14mm x 20mm, AutohausAZ 14mm x 18mm

I would have liked to keep the OEM hose, but it was starting to crack.

All the original hose connections to the vapor separator were leaky. I plugged the hoses, soaped the joints and blew into one ... and ALL of the connections leaked with almost no pressure.

I replaced all these lines and used single ear crimp clamps to secure them. No more leaks. I would occasionally get a gas fume smell coming out of the rear cargo panel and I'm pretty sure this will solve that issue.

The black around the bulkhead piece is more Cosmoline that I decided to spray.

As for the main fuel supply, I ended up replacing the old braided line with a braided PTFE line (size 3/8" -6an). In the engine bay I used some heat tubing from Wirecare.com called FireFlex to put the fuel line in. The fuel line runs across the firewall to the drivers side of the engine and I always worried about it getting warm.
For the return line, I stuck with good ol' rubber fuel injection line from my local NAPA (size 5/16"). This was easier to run and I didn't feel like getting fancy with the PTFE stuff. I kind of want to save the remainder of the PTFE for some other projects that might come up.

 

[Bullzi]

I installed a new charcoal canister with the new vent lines. The charcoal canister sits just forward of the gas tank on the Bean. My old one was full of dirt and dust from many miles on gravel roads and trails...that's the downside of having it in the back of the truck. I bought a new one not realizing you can put an air nozzle in the "tank" port and blow the dirt back out the "Air" port. Next time I'll probably just try to clean it.

I made a diagram of the Bean's Fuel/Vent lines for my future reference and thought I would post it here in case it was helpful to someone.

Yesterday, I finally got the rear section of the exhaust bolted back up. I had to drop it to get the fuel tank out and it wasn't lining up very well when I tried to bolt it back in. When I took it out, it was under an enormous amount of tension...it was also rubbing up against the frame and on the leaf spring shackle when it would flex. I am going to be getting a new exhaust at some point in the next year, so just gave it the quick and dirty chop-chop to get it back in. I also chopped off and re-welded the hangers so it isn't under tension anymore.

To give it clearance around the shackle, I had to move it it out further and then bend it back in towards the frame rail. I wasn't able to bend it, so I chopped out a slice of tubing, bent it and welded it back up.

You can see the dent and scratching where it was hitting the shackle. Now it has plenty of room!

Here is the section where I took a slice out of the inner radius so I was able to bend it back towards the frame rail.

There is still about a hand's width between the exhaust and the airbag. The exhaust guy welded up a makeshift heat shield when I had the rear section redone a few years back.

As for the steering box - Megazip shipped my order a few days ago. I'm curious to see if the ball bearings are actually in there.
While cleaning the box, I found that there is some light scaring on the inside of the box where the power piston rides. There is some matching scaring on the power piston, but not as bad. The reflection in the pictures make it look much worse than it is.

I wonder if this is a result of having the sector shaft adjustment screw too tight? If it were really tight, it would force the power piston into the side of the gearbox.

If anyone is wondering, Here is the size of the reciprocating balls.
There should be 44 total.
Part Number: 90360-06021

 

[diesellibrarian]

Finished up getting the fuel and vent lines installed. I decided to install new vent lines since I had everything apart. I also "refurbished" the bulkhead connector for the vent and overflow lines that go through the rear quarter panel (not sure what the official name of this part is). It was really rusty and needed to be cleaned up a bit.

Toyota uses the somewhat prosaic term "fuel tube connector."

 

[Bullzi]

I love getting parts directly from Japan…it feels more special somehow

Looks like they had the correct ball bearings!
Exact same size!

 

[Bullzi]

A while back, I bought some Tough Dog Shocks for the rear of the truck. I think I like these shocks compared to my worn-out OMEs, but I didn't like how the bushings were sitting against the shock bolt washers - see picture.

I messaged the company I bought them from and asked if they had seen this before and got a reply that "If they aren't making noise or torn, they are fine". Well they only had about 500 miles on them at the time, so I wasn't thrilled with the answer...even if they were probably fine.

Anyways, I decided to buy some new shock bolts and was going to find an oversized washer to cover the bushing better.
I had read that the correct bolt PN was 90119-12088 but it turns out this was for the FJ62 and the FJ60 has a different size bolt.

The FJ60 bolt is 10mm (14mm head) and the FJ62 bolt is 12mm (17mm head). The FJ60 bolt and washer are separate parts, but the FJ62 bolt is integrated with the washer.
This is kind of nice, because the larger bolt has a larger washer.

FJ60 washer on the left and FJ62 bolt/washer combo on the right.

So I had the idea to cut off the head of the M12 bolt and use the larger washer on the FJ60 shock mount.

Fits on the M10 bolt like a charm!

I decided I wanted to do the same for the back-side of the shock as well, but I had to drill the hole out a bit to fit over the larger diameter sleeve that the bushing sits on.
Top: old washer, Middle: new drilled washer, Bottom: FJ62 washer prior to drilling

Here's the new washers with the shock all bolted up - Worked like a charm!

This is all pretty boring stuff, but mostly I found it interesting and slightly odd that the shock mounting bolts between the FJ60 and FJ62 are different. Thought the info may be helpful for someone out there someday.

Here are the parts diagrams for the FJ60 and FJ62.

 

[Bullzi]

A/C Question for those of you out there that may have done this before...

I refreshed my A/C system - New Denso evaporator, new Toyota pressure switch, new Toyota expansion valve, new Denso condenser and new Toyota air-drier. I am keeping my Denso Compressor (Model 10S17F) that fits the GM 5.3L since it is still in good shape. I am also keeping my lines since I don't want to spend the money for new ones. They seem to be in relatively good shape.

Here's my actual question: I am not sure how much oil I need to add to the system. I have read a ton of threads on this but none with all new components except for an existing compressor on a 'LS' swap. Anyone know? I wasn't careful to drain the oil out of each component when I took it all apart and some of them have already been trashed, so draining all the oil out of the components is a no go. I can however drain the oil out of the compressor. I plan on doing this and replacing with fresh oil anyways.
Let me know if you have any ideas!


I'll post up some pictures of the nastiness that was my A/C system soon!

Here was the evaporator unit :

Not sure how air was even getting through there...could be why my heater CB would trip every so often?

 

[Bullzi]

Still looking for the amount of oil I need to add to my A/C system (see post above for more details).

Part 1 of 3

This summer/fall, I decided to re-fresh the A/C system...This turned into a lot more work than I had originally anticipated.
I went with a full blown revamp of the system including replacing the heater core and re-foaming all the flaps and doors in the system. Big thank to @red66toy for the write-up he created back in 2017...it has a bunch of good foam info in it!
I also replaced all of the A/C components except for the compressor and hoses which were still in good shape.

Here are the parts that I used:

Part	Brand	Part Number	Ordered From
Evaporator	Denso	4760072	Rock Auto
Pressure Switch	Toyota	88645-30250	Toyota Parts Deal
Expansion Valve	Toyota	88515-87004	Toyota Parts Deal
Thermistor - Not needed but cheap	Toyota	88626-90A01	Toyota Parts Deal
Condenser	Denso	4770154	Rock Auto
Air Drier	Toyota	88471-12080	Toyota Parts Deal
ND-8 Oil	Denso	N/A	Amazon
O-Ring Kit	Four Seasons	26751	Rock Auto
Heater Core	N/A	SKU: 520-127	Cruiser Corps
Variety of foams	Frost King and others	N/A	Local foam shop/hardware store

First step was to take out the fan, A/C and heater boxes from under the dash...I had the whole upper dash torn out, so it made this job easier. I think you can do it without taking the upper dash out, but it might be worth the effort to take it out. Getting all these components out is a bit of a pain!

As you can see, things were pretty nasty! I had gone back and forth on tackling this at this time, but I'm glad I did!

Yum!

Here are the blower doors and diverters. The foam around the edges was non-existent and the remaining foam crumbled into nothing when touched.

There are a lot of small screws that hold the doors in place and you need to be really careful not to strip the heads when taking them off. Obviously a JIS screwdriver is optimal in these situations...I still don't have one!
I was able to get all the screws out with only one giving me slight trouble. I was able to reuse them all as well.

Onto the heater core - Now I was really hesitant to mess with this since it had been working fine, but getting to it is such a pain and those o-rings that connect the heater core to the brass pipping really scare me! I am so glad I replaced it...it looks as if there was a very small leak developing.

I went with a new heater core from Cruiser Corps because we don't have a radiator shop around to refurbish the original and I didn't want to wait until my next trip to Seattle to get it taken care of. When I have some time I will get the old core refurbished to either sell or keep as a spare.
Here's a picture of the difference in the Cruiser Corp Core and the original (original on bottom):

The Cruiser Corp core is good quality, but not as nice as the discontinued OEM.

I ditched the O-rings and soldered the pipes directly to the heater core. I feel much better about this!

I gave them a pressure test with a jig I made and they held 25 psi for over a day.

Continued in next post ----->

 

[Bullzi]

Part 2 of 3

Onto the re-foam effort:

Step one was to use a scraper and get all the old foam off the doors. The foam comes off pretty easy, but the old glue does not! I was able to get the glue off easiest using warm soapy water. I actually don't think its that important to get all the old glue off. If I were to do this again, I would have just left it all on.

Next step was to cut the foam from the local foam shop to proper shape and glue it to the doors. A sharp knife is important. To get the correct shape, I just followed the glue lines on the doors as a template. The foam I used was 1/4" open cell foam. It was only a couple bucks for a large sheet. I used 3M spray glue to adhere the foam.

I also added foam to the heater core to match the OEM one.

Next up was the ducting. After cleaning all the ducting, I used a variety of Frost King foams from my local hardware store. I used different sizes for different ducting joints.

Continued in next post ------>

 

[Bullzi]

Part 3 of 3

With the foam complete, all that was left was to put the evaporator in the evaporator box and get everything installed back up under the dash.

I found it odd that the new evaporator and pressure switch came with red o-rings. I guess I should have mentioned this earlier, but my system was converted to R-134a by the PO, but compatible o-rings were not installed. I know that green o-rings are good with R-134a, but I have no idea about the red ones....I would imagine that they would be fine, but I replaced them with the green ones just to be sure. Remember to always add a splash of oil (PAG-46 or ND-8) to the o-rings during installation.

Evaporator and pressure switch o-rings:

O-ring Kit:

Expansion valve and Thermister:

I opted for the OEM expansion valve because some of the others I had seen had a slightly differed bulb design. I know others that have used them without issue, but I figured I would spend the extra money for the exact fit.
The thermister was only a few bucks and was not needed. I ended up replacing it because I had a brand new one, but the old one looked to be in perfect condition. I bought these components before I tore into the system.

Here is the evaporator with components attached. Pretty!!

I added some foam around the expansion valve bulb to match how it was from the factory.

I really wanted to use a parallel flow condenser in the front of the truck, but kept having issues. The first one I bought didn't fit. It was too long and there was no way to mount it. The second one I bought almost fit perfect, but it was just a 1/4" too tall and I couldn't get it to mount without interfering with the core support. I wanted the added efficiency of the parallel flow condenser, but most of all I wanted to get rid of the little pipe that runs in front of the factory condenser! I wanted room to run a large transmission cooler.

Well after multiple failed attempts at making the parallel condenser fit, I ended up just using the stock Denso condenser from Rock Auto. I ran out of time and energy to try to find other units and I needed to start calling things good enough so that I can get this truck back on the road! I am able to bend the front bar and 90degree fitting a bit to fit a good Tru-Cool unit up front and have some room for a small power steering cooler that I want to run as well. Using the stock condenser also allowed me to keep my existing A/C lines (new lines can be pretty spendy).

Here's a shot of the parallel flow condenser that almost fit. I could have made it fit if I wanted to hard mount it, but I wanted it to have some rubber isolation.
I believe the size is 24" x 16". It needed to go back another 1/2", but wouldn't because it was hitting the core support.

I'll post some pictures of the new condenser with the transmission and power steering coolers attached once I have it all installed.

 

[Bullzi]

FJ60 Power Steering Box update from posts 151 and 169:

I finally had some time to finish rebuilding the power steering box and I think it should be good to go.

Recap - The box had been rebuilt for the PO by Redhead and had leaked ever since. It was leaking when I bought the truck and I recently rebuilt an FZJ80 box to replace it, but it was too large and hit the PS pulley on the 5.3L LC9. I pulled the FJ60 box and tore it apart to find that 4 of the recirculating balls were missing (had 40 instead of 44). I was able to procure these from Megazip. No smoking gun on where the box was leaking, but there were a few areas that looked suspect.

So once I had the recirculating balls, the rebuild was pretty easy. No drama.

The only notable thing was replacing the brass seats where the high pressure hose connects. The brass seat was scared from the fitting. Its strange because the rebuild kit came with one brass seat...not sure why they didn't include two, maybe it was a mistake?

To get it out, I used a screw extractor - it came out with little difficulty:

You can see the ring indentation that the fitting made in the top of the seat:

Luckily, the seat that came in the rebuild kit was an exact match to the one I pulled out. I have a few FZJ80 box seats and below is the comparison...I think they would work fine, but they look slightly different. They are just a tiny bit shorter. I couldn't find a part number for the FJ60 box brass seat, so that is why I am wondering if the 80 series box ones would work. The other seat in the FJ60 box was in good shape, so I left it alone.

FZJ80 Left, FJ60 Right

I set the preload of the input shaft per the FSM and then the total preload and I think its close. I may need to adjust it just a smidge once its installed. The sector shaft is nice and tight and within preload spec, but there is a very small amount of sector shaft play at either end of the boxes range. The FSM states to set the preload in the middle of the range. There is also a little roughness in the feel of the box at one end of the its range. This was there before though and I think its a result of the slight scaring you can see in the pictures in the bottom of post 169.

Here are some pictures of the finished box after painting:

Back on the truck, but not hooked up yet:

Here are the transmission and power steering coolers I am going to run...obviously the small one is the PS cooler.

Anyone have any experience with these Magnefine filters? They seem a little too good to be true, but there are some great reviews. Was thinking of adding one to the PS system and maybe the transmission?

 

[Bullzi]

Last post for the day -
My parents made my wife and I a pretty neat Bean ornament for Christmas that I wanted to share! Yes, it's an 80 series, but it still rocks!

I hope everyone had a great Christmas!

 

[Bullzi]

I'm starting to get the electrical back in the Bean and have just about finished the rear section.
First, I had to get all the factory harnesses fished back into the 'D' pillars and hatch...that was a pain! I removed them all before sending the truck out for paint because I didn't want them to get damaged by any welding in the gutter area. No welding took place, so it ended up being pointless.
I used stiff wire and string to pull the harness into the proper location. I peeled back the headliner in the DS rear corner to get the connectors in the proper positions.

In the DS rear quarter, I installed the Hopkins trailer harness that I had modified - I think I went over this wiring a while back. It came out clean...I was able to add outputs for a 3rd brake light and a backup camera from the harness. No more unsightly wire taps and crazy butt-splices. Now it is all nice factory looking connectors.

The pictures look a little messy, but it is much cleaner than it looks!

I also redid the main harness connector in the rear quarter panel (the blue one). A few of the wires were corroded and the one going to the PS door switch was completely gone. I wanted to keep the blue connector, but couldn't find the correct pins so I used a weatherproof Molex 150 connector. This connector was rated at the correct amount of amperage with the correct number of pin slots.

Old Blue Connector:

Molex 150 sealed connector:

I needed a new grommet for the DS quarter because the old one was torn to shreds. I was able to find a nice one at zcardepot. It's meant for a 240z firewall, but it is 36mm and fits great!. The opening is a lot larger than factory, but you can close it up doing something like @red66toy did here. I need the opening large because I have to fit a lot through it!

• Factory harness
• 6awg roof rack power
• Trailer harness
• CB cable

I redid the rear fuse panel as well. I really liked the old one, but it was too messy with all the different fuse types and wires going everywhere. I was able to use MIDI fuses to simplify the panel A LOT. It has the exact same functionality of the old panel, but is much cleaner.

Old Panel:

New panel:

 

[Bullzi]

For the 3rd brake light, I used a Hella LED Matrix brake light. The install was super simple...the light only draws around 0.25A at 12V, so I did not feel the need to run a relay. It's connected onto the Hopkins trailer harness brake light wire through a connector that I had added in.

I drilled a hole in the hatch above the light and ran the wires through the hatch over to the passenger side of the truck and through the hatch grommet. The wires go down the PS 'D' pillar and into the quarter panel where the connection is.

The light has a bracket that sticks to the glass. It seems to be a very strong bond. The actual light pops into the bracket and the angle is adjustable.

I am very happy with how it turned out!


I was also able to add a rear actuator to the FJ62 hatch lock that I picked up locally. All my doors are keyless, but the hatch required a key. Adding the actuator was tricky because the FJ60 hatches do not have a factory bracket to hold an actuator. I was able to make a bracket out of aluminum and us some screws to mount it to the bracket that holds the lock mechanism in place. It is not an ideal mounting situation, but it is very sturdy. I have tested it with a 12v battery and it works.
In hindsight, I should have welded a bracket into place before it went to paint...

Last, but not least, I added back in the rear hatch lights that we really love. These are the KC cyclone lights and they are super bright! They are also a lot less expensive than some of the other lights out there. Super good quality though!

And the rear electrical is pretty much complete!