-------->> Continued from Post #118
Once all components are clean just follow the reseal and assembly procedure highlighted in the FSM or the forum
here on MUD. There are excellent pictures. Be sure to use plenty of clean ATF when reassembling! There are a few sneaky o-rings hiding under teflon seals, so make sure to replace them all!
I found that my box had actually been re-sealed at some point because I found existing match marks on the preload nut for the valve body.
I found the perfect pin wrench from an old grinder to loosen the preload nut...I hear Harbor Freight has an adjustable pin wrench for cheap if you cant find something in your stash of tools.
The valve body that connects to the input shaft has 4 teflon rings that do not come in the rebuild kit. I think Toyota considers this entire component non-serviceable, so it doesn't look like they make replacement seals for it. It may not even be necessary to take apart, but there are two o-rings and one teflon seal on/inside the preload nut (the part that requires the pin wrench) that come in the kit and are good to replace.
There are a few procedures that I want to highlight here, since they are the ones I think have the most potential for trouble.
First is getting all 44 little ball bearings into the power piston (unfortunately I didn't take pictures). I found it easiest to use a little grease on the u-shaped clamp-ends that the balls go into to hold the balls in place (this is common).
Now, as for getting the balls into the power piston ,here is what I did:
- Insert the worm gear (side cover assembly) into the power piston.
- Feed a few balls into the power piston from the hole that is more central to the power piston until its full (5 or 6 balls).
- Use the power piston plunger to push the balls into the hole while gently spinning the worm gear back and forth. Try not to spin the worm gear out of the power piston more than a turn. (DON'T FORCE ANYTHING).
- When the balls go into the power piston, reload and repeat until all the balls are in. They will want to start coming out the other hole, so you may need to use your finger to cover it.
- Snap the u-shaped retainer full of balls held in by grease into the two holes and screw it down.
This method worked really well for me and I was able to get all the balls back in place in less than 2 minutes. Sorry for the lack of pictures!
The other part that was slightly tricky was getting the power piston back into the steering box housing without nicking or cutting it. On my first attempt, I was being careless and I rammed the power piston back into the housing and cut the teflon ring. I had to buy a new one and luckily Toyota sells it separately. The part number is in the previous post.
The reason the power piston is hard to get into the housing is because there is an o-ring under the teflon ring that pushes it out. There is a sharp lip inside the steering box housing that the teflon ring can get caught on. Some people have filed or sanded the sharpness out of this lip and I would maybe give that a try if I ever needed to do this again. I tried using the hose clamp trick to compress the o-ring and teflon ring, but I didn't find it to be that helpful...
What ended up working was using a plastic tool for removing interior trim pieces to press down on the teflon ring as it passed under the lip of the housing at the corners. The arrows in the picture below show the areas where the teflon ring likes to get snagged and cut.
Plastic tool pushing on the teflon ring to get it past the snag points.
If you use this method or soften the sharp edge with something, its not too bad at all. If you do take the edge down, make sure to clean all debris out before assembly (including in the bearings that are left in place during the re-seal).
The rest is pretty simple. I created my own "SST" for setting the preload with a beam-style in-lbs torque wrench. I took a 16mm 12pt socket and ground out the inside just a bit until it fit snug over the splines of the input shaft. Then I set the preload of the top nut so the force to spin the input was around 9in-lbs. The FSM calls for 6.5-9.6in-lbs.
I am pretty happy with how the box turned out. There is a little play in the input shaft at the center of its range. The play goes away as you turn the shaft about 1/2 rotation to the left or right. The box was this way before the re-seal and I had hopes that it would improve the issue. I think the mating surface on the power piston and/or the sector shaft may be worn down. This box had about 150k on it when I purchased it.
I also have a re-seal kit for the 60 series box that is leaking terribly out of the input seal, so I'll be rebuilding that one in the future when I get around to installing the FZJ80 box.
1987 FJ60 Reseal part numbers:
Reseal kit: 04445-60030
Extra Teflon ring for the power piston (just in case): 90562-67002
Teflon Ring for the steering worm (I have heard reports that the full kit does not come with these, but have not checked): 90562-48001 (2 needed)
I have more pictures and info if anyone would like additional details.
!
