AA Ron's FJ40 refresh (1 Viewer)

[65swb45]

Be interested to see the shackle angles Aaron.

 

[airon23]

I like what you're doing.

Thanks that means a lot. I know it isn't perfect but I'm glad others can appreciate it.

Great story and photos here. Good work!

Thanks, I've slacked on updates for a little bit but I have a few more things I'll post. Like everyone else I love pictures.

I need to do these rebuilds too. I have the kits (from Cruiser Outfitters), just waiting to get to that part of my build. Are there links to the videos? AA Ron - when you get to it, let me know, maybe we can work through it together.

I've put this project off for the time being because I may be back at work soon from this whole stay at home stuff. But it that changes, I may want to take advantage of doing this work.

I was sore for 3 or 4 days after replacing all my bushings, shackles, and pins. It’s a tough job to do alone! Nice work.

I know exactly what you mean. I was sore just from lifting, moving, and shifting these things around by myself. Thanks for the props.

 

[airon23]

Be interested to see the shackle angles Aaron.

For sure. I took a couple pictures of how it sits now. I can say it rides really well and much better than my old stuff that was on there. Although that's not saying much from that really old man-a-fre lift that was on there.

 

[airon23]

A couple new things I've done to the Rusty Smurf. I know these are not a necessity, but I've always wanted headrests for my seats. Maybe it's because of the rareness of them, or just the fact that they feel somehow incomplete to me without them. There are probably more comfortable seats out there, but I've always had a more purist mindset and love of these old trucks which leads me to want to have them closer to how they were back in the day. Seats still need to be reupholstered but that'll happen eventually.

All that being said I also threw in this Conferr center console I bought a little while ago but never put in. I had also purchased a spare console from someone on here for cheap so I wouldn't have to use the original because it screws into the existing console. While it isn't stock, it is the type of thing that would have been thrown on as sort of upgrading some of the features back in the day.

 

[airon23]

 

[airon23]

A few weeks ago I got an engine gasket replacement set from @65swb45 Mark. I'm getting ready to start into that including a new clutch and probably wanted to paint the motor. My question is, should I be thinking about this from the point of pulling the motor and transmission/tc for changing the seals and gaskets or is this something I can do easy enough with everything but the transmission being pulled?

My thought was to pull the motor but this is a bigger job than I've ever done so wanted to make sure I was set up to do it right.

My other concern... going down the rabbit hole. Next thing you know I'm pulling the body off the frame and going a whole new route.

Thoughts?

 

[airon23]

Also keep in mind most of not all will be done by myself.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Also keep in mind most of not all will be done by myself.

 

[mrboatman]

It would only be a rabbit hole if you let it go there. What ever you budget for the reseal job double it then you will be happy when your done and you have money left over.

 

[Jdc1]

Also keep in mind most of not all will be done by myself.

Pulling the drivetrain to do a reseal is excessive. You can do the rear main and oil pan (don’t be afraid of using a lot of fipg) when you have the flywheel at the shop being resurfaced. Make sure the freeze plug behind the bellhousing isn’t leaking too. Then reinstall the clutch, trans and transfer. There’s a ton of room to work on the passenger side if you remove the battery and support. Sometimes, I’ll sit with a beer in hand and make a plan in my head for the next day. Driving a 40 is more fun than wrenching, especially in the summer.

 

[airon23]

It would only be a rabbit hole if you let it go there. What ever you budget for the reseal job double it then you will be happy when your done and you have money left over.

Good idea. I already have all the gaskets, what else do I need to take into account?

 

[airon23]

Pulling the drivetrain to do a reseal is excessive. You can do the rear main and oil pan (don’t be afraid of using a lot of fipg) when you have the flywheel at the shop being resurfaced. Make sure the freeze plug behind the bellhousing isn’t leaking too. Then reinstall the clutch, trans and transfer. There’s a ton of room to work on the passenger side if you remove the battery and support. Sometimes, I’ll sit with a beer in hand and make a plan in my head for the next day. Driving a 40 is more fun than wrenching, especially in the summer.

• Ok so you don't think I need to pull the motor, but transmission/tc does need to come out is that right? I like the sound of that but was worried about space. you make a good point about sufficient space to work though.
• What is fipg?
• Do I need to have the flywheel resurfaced no matter what? I hadn't anticipated that.
• I'll check the freeze plug for leaks. thanks for the tip.
• True more fun driving but if you want it to be reliable, sometimes the wrenching might be necessary.

 

[Jdc1]

• Ok so you don't think I need to pull the motor, but transmission/tc does need to come out is that right? I like the sound of that but was worried about space. you make a good point about sufficient space to work though.
• What is fipg?
• Do I need to have the flywheel resurfaced no matter what? I hadn't anticipated that.
• I'll check the freeze plug for leaks. thanks for the tip.
• True more fun driving but if you want it to be reliable, sometimes the wrenching might be necessary.

In my experience(might not work for everyone) Unless the freeze plug is leaking, the bellhousing doesn’t need to come off. It’s a little more of a pain in the neck to do the oil pan in the truck but less than pulling the drivetrain. If you are planning on doing a lift, the oil pan would be easier with the axle out of the way.

FIPG is form in place gasket. Toyota’s gasket sealer. It’s pretty wicked stuff.

Maybe one of the heavy hitters will chime in but you can probably get away with not resurfacing the flywheel if it doesn’t have any gouges or cracks. The one that I used on the 72 was in pretty bad shape. I am doing one now that I probably won’t do the flywheel.

 

[Slapshot]

I like what you’ve done! Keep up the “refresh”.

BTW , I’m considering the same lift for my truck. What size tires are you running? I’d love to see a straight on side shot.

 

[mrboatman]

It's a good time to reseal or refresh the transmission and transfer case. It all depends on the condition of your flywheel but for about $100 bucks you can get it surfaced and be good to go. Also a good time to change the rear mounts and clean up the main grounds and starter and connections. You did a knuckle job so you should not have trouble with the rest.
JP

 

[65swb45]

Aaron, just seeing this. IMO, the gasket that YOU WILL NEVER HAVE A BETTER TIME TO REPLACE than while the head is off is the timing cover plate gasket. The bane of most FJ60 owners. Have to pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover and camshaft to get at it. But if you show any sign of oil on the front of the oil pan, you should replace it.

 

[airon23]

In my experience(might not work for everyone) Unless the freeze plug is leaking, the bellhousing doesn’t need to come off. It’s a little more of a pain in the neck to do the oil pan in the truck but less than pulling the drivetrain. If you are planning on doing a lift, the oil pan would be easier with the axle out of the way.

FIPG is form in place gasket. Toyota’s gasket sealer. It’s pretty wicked stuff.

Maybe one of the heavy hitters will chime in but you can probably get away with not resurfacing the flywheel if it doesn’t have any gouges or cracks. The one that I used on the 72 was in pretty bad shape. I am doing one now that I probably won’t do the flywheel.

I was watching this video from JNH Classics (not sure if he's ever been on here but he does excellent work restoring various vehicles including a running FJ40 build) and he gave me the same thought of not pulling the bell housing, just the transmission.

Do you use the FIPG along with the actual gasket or only in place of a gasket that you do not have? As far as I know I have all the gaskets, but so do I need to buy this stuff and apply it to the gaskets as I install?

I'll analyze the flywheel when I get to that and see what I need to do if anything.

Thanks again for the info. I'm glad I asked some questions before ripping into this thing.

 

[airon23]

I like what you’ve done! Keep up the “refresh”.

BTW , I’m considering the same lift for my truck. What size tires are you running? I’d love to see a straight on side shot.

Thanks it's been fun learning as I go. I am running 31" tires but by the looks of it I would think you could fit 33s if you wanted. I haven't gotten a straight on side shot but I'll try to do that here soon.

 

[Jdc1]

I was watching this video from JNH Classics (not sure if he's ever been on here but he does excellent work restoring various vehicles including a running FJ40 build) and he gave me the same thought of not pulling the bell housing, just the transmission.

Do you use the FIPG along with the actual gasket or only in place of a gasket that you do not have? As far as I know I have all the gaskets, but so do I need to buy this stuff and apply it to the gaskets as I install?

I'll analyze the flywheel when I get to that and see what I need to do if anything.

Thanks again for the info. I'm glad I asked some questions before ripping into this thing.

The FIPG only goes in certain places. Like around the arches under the front and rear crank seals.

This is a good thread:

Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)

Since I had the camera at the shop and was taking pictures of the main bearing mess... I took some pictures of how I install a new Toyota one-piece pan gasket and the oil pan without fighting it, and messing up the gasket. After cleaning the pan/engine block/gasket sealing areas VERY WELL...

forum.ih8mud.com

Also coolerman goes through a lot in his website:

!Oy: Coolermans 1971 FJ40 Build

There’s a lot of great info in the FSMs as well as the Haynes Manual.

 

[airon23]

It's a good time to reseal or refresh the transmission and transfer case. It all depends on the condition of your flywheel but for about $100 bucks you can get it surfaced and be good to go. Also a good time to change the rear mounts and clean up the main grounds and starter and connections. You did a knuckle job so you should not have trouble with the rest.
JP

I've thought about the reseal transmission and transfer case vs. having a shop rebuild it for me. I keep going back and forth in my head, that or do it myself. I also don't have endless $.

Where does one get a flywheel surfaced by the way?

For sure, thanks for the reminder. I have new motor mounts ready to go when I get to that point. Also all the cooling system hoses and what not. I got quite the lineup of work ahead of me. If I get to a point I need something new, I should have the time, and hopefully the patience, to get it ordered and replaced before too long.