Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ) (4 Viewers)

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Since I had the camera at the shop and was taking pictures of the main bearing mess... I took some pictures of how I install a new Toyota one-piece pan gasket and the oil pan without fighting it, and messing up the gasket.


After cleaning the pan/engine block/gasket sealing areas VERY WELL with brake cleaner or other fast evap. solvent and making sure that the pan flange is flat and not damaged, I put the gasket down and tie it to the pan in four corners using just general cotton-type string from Ace Hardware. ;) I then use sealer on both sides of the gasket that fit into the grooves of the #1 and #4 main bearing caps, and on the corners. I then use two 8mmx1.25x40+mm long bolts to hang and locate the pan while I then then position the gasket, sometimes needing to use a 90 degree angle pick to fish it into place. Then I install the oil pan bolts using blue locktite and snug them up, being careful to not over-tighten the fasteners, and damage the pan gasket. This system has worked very well for me since I started using it back in 1992. Hopefully your results will not vary, but they may.
pan1.JPG
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pan3.JPG
 

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Side cover gasket....



This is where your Gasgacinch or Caterpillar 5H-2471 Green cement come in and shine...clean the cover and the sealing surface of the block very well agian with brake cleaner or other fast evap. solvent. Use some contact cement on the gasket and cover, attching your gasket to it. After the gasket has set up on the cover, I use just a bit of black sealant on the lower half, just to help keep things leak free. (sorry about the crappy first pic)


Hope this helps!


-Steve
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I've been using 3m black weatherstrip glue lately because it seems to clean up better than yellow and instead of the strings I use bolts put downward through the gasket to hold it while the stickum sets. Once dry the bolts come out and the pan goes up.

Never had a leak comeback since 1976 :)
 

PabloCruise

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Thanks Steve.

Also, for those of you getting ready to do this job - the side cover gasket goes on ONE WAY! That means figure out which side is which BEFORE applying adhesive/sealant.

Don't ask me how I know!

I believe the pan gasket is directional as well, but a little more obvious...
 
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Thanks for posting this, Steve! I know a lot of folks, including myself, will greatly benefit!
 
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And only buy the one piece pan gasket. The first time I did the pan gasket on mine (engine in place) it was 4 piece from a parts store, I thought thats the way they were........ :mad:
 

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12151-61010 Toyota one-piece oil pan gasket part number....
 
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Steve-
I am getting ready to do mine for the 3rd time and have a question..
On the flat areas you aren't using any gasket sealant like red high tack permatek sealer? Is it not needed? Also, on the ends over the bearing caps are you using black sealant on both sides of the gasket?
The manual calls for sealant in the corners at the rear main are you still doing that or does the sealant that you put on the gasket eliminate that?
Great and timely post. Now how about the timing cover. I can't get that to seal up. I think my cover flange is warped from coming on and off from leaking and the original rebuild.
Dave
 

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petescoffee said:
Steve-
I am getting ready to do mine for the 3rd time and have a question..
On the flat areas you aren't using any gasket sealant like red high tack permatek sealer? Is it not needed? Also, on the ends over the bearing caps are you using black sealant on both sides of the gasket?
The manual calls for sealant in the corners at the rear main are you still doing that or does the sealant that you put on the gasket eliminate that?
Great and timely post. Now how about the timing cover. I can't get that to seal up. I think my cover flange is warped from coming on and off from leaking and the original rebuild.
Dave



Dave-


I do not use any sealant on the flat surfaces, other than the very ends around the last bolt holes, I have not ever had an issue with the cork gasket not sealing on that flat surface, however, make sure your pan flange is not damaged.



I put sealant between the pan and the gasket on the curved ends where it fits into the main bearing caps, and then on the side of the gasket that contacts the engine block/bearing caps. I also put some sealant on the ends of the gasket around the last holes in the gasket, as I think Toyota may mention in the FSM. I am pretty sure that I am going beyond what Toyota suggests.


The front cover flange can bend and distort very easily. Any time I replace that gasket, I make sure that the flange on the cover is not dented or warped at all, as you will not ever get it to seal properly that way. One other thing to verify is exactly where the oil is leaking from, as I know many people that have tried to stop what was thought to be a front cover leak, only for it to be the gasket between the end plate and the engine block, the steel piece between the front cover and the engine block. These are time consuming, but not impossible. I have a 1973 in the shop right now with all these pieces off. It was going to be another post, but I will shoot pics of that tomorrow and try and get them out here.


:beer:



-Steve
 

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landcrusher909 said:
perfect timing Poser i just got a new pan gasket and rear main seal will be installing this weekend thanks for the tips



Rear main seals are a breeze and zero risk of damaging them if you install them when you have the transmission, clutch, flywheel and oil pan down....drop the rear main bearing cap, pull out the old seal, clean the area up, install the new seal, re-install the main cap, and torque the four bolts.! No hammer, no beating on a 30 dollar seal, in and out.



You can see the lower part of the rear main seal in this pic...( I hope )




attachment.php












So apparently, folks have only been looking at pictures and not actually reading a thread to realize that these things are dynamic. :lol:





For future users:




In order to replace a rear main seal, one must first remove the transmission and transfer case assembly, then, remove the clutch and flywheel assembly.




attachment.php





If you choose to drop your oil pan to replace a leaking gasket at the same time you are replacing your clutch and flywheel, it is VERY EASY to replace a engine rear main seal with those components out of the way, by simply unbolting the four fasteners retaining the rear main bearing cap and popping it loose from the engine block.



:beer:
 
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I have tranny fluid leaking out the bolt holes on my T350. I think the po tightened them too much. Is their any way to fix it? The po also beat the pan so the front drive shaft would clear. What is the correct way to get the drive shaft to clear the pan?
 

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albee said:
I have tranny fluid leaking out the bolt holes on my T350. I think the po tightened them too much. Is their any way to fix it? The po also beat the pan so the front drive shaft would clear. What is the correct way to get the drive shaft to clear the pan?



Are you sure that the bolts have pulled the threads out of the transmission housing?


I would get a new pan and modify it, as you will probably play hell getting the flange to seal if the pan was beat on to clear the drive shaft...cut away what you do not need, and re-weld it. Buckroseau did this a couple months ago in his 45 buildup thread, and took pictures of it...the pan, just like everything else on that build, turned out nice.


In the event that the bolt holes are stripped, you will need to install threaded inserts...no biggie...you are working on aluminum....upside down however.....



Good luck!


-Steve
 
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Does anyone else remove the rear main seal the way POSER does it ? That sounds like the ticket to me. I'm about to do mine this weekend and some guys seem to have a lot of trouble doing this job........
 
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Poser said:
Rear main seals are a breeze and zero risk of damaging them if you install them when you have the pan down....drop the rear main bearing cap, pull out the old seal, clean the area up, install the new seal, re-install the main cap, and torque the four bolts.! No hammer, no beating on a 30 dollar seal, in and out.



You can see the lower part of the rear main seal in this pic...( I hope )




attachment.php
Could the rear main seal really be that easy ?? I'll be doing mine this weekend .
 

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JP2ME said:
Could the rear main seal really be that easy ?? I'll be doing mine this weekend .



With the transmission, flywheel, oilpan and rear main cap out of the way, yes it really is THAT easy.


Most folks that are doing a clutch install/rear main seal are not working on the oil pan or gasket at the same time....


:beer:
 

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