AA Ron's FJ40 refresh (1 Viewer)

[airon23]

Aaron, just seeing this. IMO, the gasket that YOU WILL NEVER HAVE A BETTER TIME TO REPLACE than while the head is off is the timing cover plate gasket. The bane of most FJ60 owners. Have to pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover and camshaft to get at it. But if you show any sign of oil on the front of the oil pan, you should replace it.

So I should be pulling the radiator, fan, and front bib to get this out and replace the gasket? Is there some order of operations I should know about so that I won't be taking things off and putting things back on in the wrong order?

 

[mrboatman]

So I should be pulling the radiator, fan, and front bib to get this out and replace the gasket? Is there some order of operations I should know about so that I won't be taking things off and putting things back on in the wrong order?

Yes all of that would have to be removed. Any decent machine shop should be able to surface it. You got good people in your club that should be able to point you to a good machine shop.

 

[65swb45]

So I should be pulling the radiator, fan, and front bib to get this out and replace the gasket? Is there some order of operations I should know about so that I won't be taking things off and putting things back on in the wrong order?

It’s pretty straight forward. Hardest part is breaking the locknut on the crank loose. Second hardest is the three flat head slotted screws that hold the timing cover plate to the block. MOST IMPORTANT thing is to use a GENUINE Toyota gasket on the plate (which is why I subbed one into your kit) and the second most important is to mark the screws on the timing cover, because they are different lengths.

Oh, and you may have a little fun lifting out the lifters so you can get the cam out. That’s mostly a matter of patience.

Note to all reading this: if you found this information useful, you are always welcome to hit the like button.

 

[airon23]

I like what you’ve done! Keep up the “refresh”.

BTW , I’m considering the same lift for my truck. What size tires are you running? I’d love to see a straight on side shot.

Here are a few pics I snapped...

 

[Slapshot]

Thanks for the pics.

 

[airon23]

Ok I went ahead and started in on the disassembly to start the project of changing seals/gaskets on motor as well as changing clutch and rear main seal. I'm also hoping to clean and paint the motor with POR15 engine enamel a blue and white combo. Wish me luck.

I got this far today and felt a little stuck so I'm hoping to get some help...

This is how it sits as of right now...

Questions and where I got stuck and could use some help:

• Do I need a cherry picker to lift the motor to put the new motor mounts on?
• Do I need to remove the exhaust system to remove the transmission skid plate?
• I see several things that are used for smog system, however the smog pump has no belt connected to it so I don't think it is working. So am I just better off removing all smog stuff? If so what all does that entail.
• Do I need to keep everything on the way it is now so it will run right or will removing everything make it start running differently and I'll have issues?
• I haven't removed the fenders, front bib, push bull bar, am I dumb and making things harder for myself and I just need to remove them?
• I have some new headers I want to throw on, does this remove the smog exhaust stuff anyway? Should I even put the headers on?
• The radiator was plugged up at the drain point with a bunch of muck, I easily stuck something up there and it all came loose and drained just fine. Does this indicate a problem with the radiator, or is this common expected wear and tear from running so many years?

I really appreciate help with this especially if you've ever done this same work, or just have the knowledge. Am I in over my head already?
I know that's a lot to ask, but feel free to respond to any of the questions. Thanks in advance.

 

[airon23]

Side note, I got myself a GoPro to help document this and maybe make a video of the work I'm doing. I'm such a noob at this though that I don't even know what to use to edit videos and get them somewhat ready to post on YouTube. @BenjaminCA, I was wondering if you might pull back the curtain and tell me what you use for video editing. Or anyone who knows about these things, what do you use to create/edit your videos for YouTube. Not trying to really start a channel on this stuff because I think it wouldn't be too exciting, but I would like to document my work and little successes as I go.

 

[BenjaminCA]

No problem man, I use “iMovie” which is the free ap you get with Mac computers. Watch a couple tutorials and off you go. Or, there’s programs with PC’s as well. I just happen to have a Mac.

Side note, I got myself a GoPro to help document this and maybe make a video of the work I'm doing. I'm such a noob at this though that I don't even know what to use to edit videos and get them somewhat ready to post on YouTube. @BenjaminCA, I was wondering if you might pull back the curtain and tell me what you use for video editing. Or anyone who knows about these things, what do you use to create/edit your videos for YouTube. Not trying to really start a channel on this stuff because I think it wouldn't be too exciting, but I would like to document my work and little successes as I go.

 

[Curtice]

I'll take a stab at some of your questions.

Questions and where I got stuck and could use some help:

• Do I need a cherry picker to lift the motor to put the new motor mounts on?

Unless I misunderstand, I don't see how you would do it otherwise. You need at least a little room to work with.

• I see several things that are used for smog system, however the smog pump has no belt connected to it so I don't think it is working. So am I just better off removing all smog stuff? If so what all does that entail.

Depends on regulation in your state. I don't know Nevada rules. In WA where I live, anything over 25 years old doesn't need to be emissions tested. I believe in Cali, you would need to keep all of the smog stuff and getting it tuned well. I am building my engine desmogged, and learning as I go...it is a 3FE though. There is plenty of info on the forum on desmogging and even kits you can buy to help I think. I don't know enough about it (yet), but if there is no belt hooked up to the air pump, you certainly aren't running it properly.

• Do I need to keep everything on the way it is now so it will run right or will removing everything make it start running differently and I'll have issues?

I assume you are referring to the smog system. I would have said you can't partially desmog, but since your air pump isn't hooked up, maybe you can. But I would say generally speaking, your engine won't run nearly as well if you don't either have it fully desmogged or fully "smogged".

• I haven't removed the fenders, front bib, push bull bar, am I dumb and making things harder for myself and I just need to remove them?

If you are going to lift the engine and mess with motor mounts, I would say 100% yes remove this stuff. It isn't too hard. But given the work you are doing, I would for sure even if not moving the engine. I remove my fenders whenever I am doing any work...its just easier to get in there and maneuver around.

• The radiator was plugged up at the drain point with a bunch of muck, I easily stuck something up there and it all came loose and drained just fine. Does this indicate a problem with the radiator, or is this common expected wear and tear from running so many years?

You can take your radiator to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and pressure tested. They will tell you if it is still usable or not. I would suggest doing that...getting the cooling system working at peak is essential. Especially in Nevada, I wouldn't mess with overheating.

I'm enjoying your thread and learning as I go as well.

 

[airon23]

I'll take a stab at some of your questions.



Unless I misunderstand, I don't see how you would do it otherwise. You need at least a little room to work with.



Depends on regulation in your state. I don't know Nevada rules. In WA where I live, anything over 25 years old doesn't need to be emissions tested. I believe in Cali, you would need to keep all of the smog stuff and getting it tuned well. I am building my engine desmogged, and learning as I go...it is a 3FE though. There is plenty of info on the forum on desmogging and even kits you can buy to help I think. I don't know enough about it (yet), but if there is no belt hooked up to the air pump, you certainly aren't running it properly.



I assume you are referring to the smog system. I would have said you can't partially desmog, but since your air pump isn't hooked up, maybe you can. But I would say generally speaking, your engine won't run nearly as well if you don't either have it fully desmogged or fully "smogged".



If you are going to lift the engine and mess with motor mounts, I would say 100% yes remove this stuff. It isn't too hard. But given the work you are doing, I would for sure even if not moving the engine. I remove my fenders whenever I am doing any work...its just easier to get in there and maneuver around.



You can take your radiator to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and pressure tested. They will tell you if it is still usable or not. I would suggest doing that...getting the cooling system working at peak is essential. Especially in Nevada, I wouldn't mess with overheating.

I'm enjoying your thread and learning as I go as well.

Very awesome! Thanks so much for your responses.

I think yes then the next steps I'll do is have a cherry picker and remove that stuff on the front end to make it easier on myself. Thinking more about it, that absolutely makes sense. I think I was just trying to be lazy and not remove that stuff.

 

[Curtice]

Lol I hear you on being lazy. My problem here is I spend too much money because I’m lazy. “I’ll buy a new one instead of fix the old one”.

 

[airon23]

Here's as far as I've gotten so far...

It's been fun and I've learned a lot along the way so far. I'm not trying to take too long on this so I don't forget stuff or lose parts.

As you can see there is one thing at least, one concrete piece of evidence I've actually replaced something, the front motor mounts. The old ones were not terrible I suppose, but best to replace them while I'm at it.

Next to come off, the valve cover and exhaust stuff.

Let me know what you think or if you see anything that I'm missing. Thanks.

 

[airon23]

I took the radiator to the shop and got it cleaned cleaned up and replaced top and bottom tanks. So that's ready to go whenever I can get to it.

 

[mrboatman]

Looks like you are doing a great job. Keep plugging along on it.

 

[65swb45]

Aaron

Seeing these pics, I take back what I said on the phone. ANYTHING is better than THAT exhaust manifold. Even the 6 into one ‘flashlight’ header.

 

[airon23]

Aaron

Seeing these pics, I take back what I said on the phone. ANYTHING is better than THAT exhaust manifold. Even the 6 into one ‘flashlight’ header.

Ah ok good to hear Mark. What do you suggest with the rest of the exhaust down pipe? Should I keep that orginal, remove the piece that goes to about the end of the transmission and bolts up and have a shop make me something that will butt up to it?

After talking with you, I got the 2 nuts hiding under the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold. I made a quick video with my question...

 

[airon23]

Didn't have time to work on this today, but if anyone has any help with removing this I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

 

[65swb45]

Aaron

Look at the bolt pattern on the replacement manifold gasket and you will understand where the other two nuts are.

 

[airon23]

Yes thank you Mark I did end up finding that this morning and got all that off. Let me just say I felt like a dummy after I found and removed those.

 

[airon23]

I continued cleaning up the motor to get it ready for all new seals.

I'll take the flywheel to OReilley's tomorrow to get machined.
Yesterday we pulled the transmission out. Now to take it somewhere for rebuild/reseal. Not sure exactly what it needs but I'll let the experts handle it. I was wondering if I need to make a trip out to George at Valley Hybrids, but how long does something like that take? I was going to give him a call on Monday to inquire. Anyone with experience with them have any thoughts on if am I much worse off at a transmission shop here locally?