Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)

[NeverFinis]

Hello from the future. I can confirm 5.3 set input to 4cyl not 8. Output to Toyota tach is 6. Worked almost perfect. You can make minor changes in the rpm with the Bluetooth app from Dakota. Was so easy I almost was confused. I made an expansion board under my steering to hold my box. Some 12 ignition for extras in future. This is a 62. N joy

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Coming from the recent past, the FZJ80 tach is adjustable to different RPM signals, making the Dakota Tach box unnecessary. The tach still needs to see 12V pulses, not 5V pulses, which means a pullup resistor might have to be used if you ECM only outputs a 5V tach pulse (or do the resistor mod trick).

See Post 8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/post-15332713

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Hello from the future. I can confirm 5.3 set input to 4cyl not 8. Output to Toyota tach is 6. Worked almost perfect. You can make minor changes in the rpm with the Bluetooth app from Dakota. Was so easy I almost was confused. I made an expansion board under my steering to hold my box. Some 12 ignition for extras in future. This is a 62. N joy

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Fj62? This is 80 section for swaps not tye same animal like said above the dd box isn't needed and 62 tach stops at 5k

 

[tmxmotorsports]

It’s weird (and annoying) how scarce that stuff is. I have never found any in a store besides in box with a pump.

Local car quest has it here.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Coming from the recent past, the FZJ80 tach is adjustable to different RPM signals, making the Dakota Tach box unnecessary. The tach still needs to see 12V pulses, not 5V pulses, which means a pullup resistor might have to be used if you ECM only outputs a 5V tach pulse (or do the resistor mod trick).

See Post 8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/post-15332713

Yep my mistake I deleted all my entry

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I'm getting ready to purchase everything for my LS swap in the coming weeks. Talking with a radiator manufacturer about getting the inlet/outlet swapped to opposite sides (inlet on RHD drivers side) to suit the LSA intake a bit better and honestly just for a cleaner look.

They've sent me an existing design with the inlet/outlet on the same side of the tanks but it's NOT a double pass. While this is ideal for routing the hoses, is this going to cause issues with coolant following the path of least resistance and flowing straight down the rad rather than traveling across and down?

It's no problem for them to move the lower outlet as well, I'll just have to pay a small drafting fee which I'd rather do now than overheat later.

 

[NeverFinis]

I'm getting ready to purchase everything for my LS swap in the coming weeks. Talking with a radiator manufacturer about getting the inlet/outlet swapped to opposite sides (inlet on RHD drivers side) to suit the LSA intake a bit better and honestly just for a cleaner look.

They've sent me an existing design with the inlet/outlet on the same side of the tanks but it's NOT a double pass. While this is ideal for routing the hoses, is this going to cause issues with coolant following the path of least resistance and flowing straight down the rad rather than traveling across and down?

It's no problem for them to move the lower outlet as well, I'll just have to pay a small drafting fee which I'd rather do now than overheat later.

Thats a no go for me. It needs to be a double pass if your inlet and outlet is on the same side. You will have zero flow through the fins otherwise.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Thats a no go for me. It needs to be a double pass if your inlet and outlet is on the same side. You will have zero flow through the fins otherwise.

Cheers, I figured as much.

 

[stuntheavy]

Does anyone have a diagram of the wiring from the center diff lock switch, to the tcase?

 

[White Sheep]

Does anyone have a diagram of the wiring from the center diff lock switch, to the tcase?

 

[White Stripe]

Gen 3 ecu upgrade: LS motors with a gen 3 ecu can have the option of inserting a chip into the stock ecu originally developed by moates. It allows tuning on the fly with the stock ecu rather than the standard reflash only when engine is off method.

FlashOnline R4 – CobraRTP

cobrartp.com

 

[stuntheavy]

Thanks White Sheep, that worked! Man these things are gravy wiring.

 

[highharrison]

Yes, I think you can simply adjust that POT until the tach agrees with the scan tool. Tach has to be out of the dash, and just connect the tach signal to the P, Battery Positive to + and Battery Neg to -. I used the bolts that hold the tach in to attach the wires to the function generator.



Yep, I think some GM ECMs output a +5V tach signal, rather than +12V signal our tachs expect . Either use a pull-up resistor (GM recommends starting with 5K) needs to be used, and/or that resistor on the tach needs to be bypassed. I don't think a Dakota box for the tach is needed at all. I am using a GSS-3000 so my transmission dash lights work.



From my recent research, the most likely cause is a broken solder joint, which is easily fixable. Sometimes it is a bad capacitor. Most of the Toyota tachs that fail are using newer SMD components, not pin through hole components like ours. The latter is much sturdier.

I tried adjusting the POT to get the Swaptime Muscle Car Module (MCM) to drive my tach on my 1991 FJ80, but don't get any movement aside from startup. where it jumps up to about 1000 RPM, then falls to 0 and doesn't move again. (Turning the knob from stop to stop doesn't give it any signs of life.)

1. Is it possible that the tach on the 1991 FJ80s don't function the same as the ones you tested and operate outside of the resistance limits that the MCM needs?

2. Are there parameters that I need to play with on the MCM to send the right signal? I recall Mitch from Swaptime mentioning something about being able to do this, but wanted to see if anyone else had been successful in making those changes.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I tried adjusting the POT to get the Swaptime Muscle Car Module (MCM) to drive my tach on my 1991 FJ80, but don't get any movement aside from startup. where it jumps up to about 1000 RPM, then falls to 0 and doesn't move again. (Turning the knob from stop to stop doesn't give it any signs of life.)

1. Is it possible that the tach on the 1991 FJ80s don't function the same as the ones you tested and operate outside of the resistance limits that the MCM needs?

2. Are there parameters that I need to play with on the MCM to send the right signal? I recall Mitch from Swaptime mentioning something about being able to do this, but wanted to see if anyone else had been successful in making those changes.

Did you add tye step up resistor

 

[highharrison]

Did you add tye step up resistor

I haven't. I interpreted NF's post as you didn't need one.

 

[NeverFinis]

I tried adjusting the POT to get the Swaptime Muscle Car Module (MCM) to drive my tach on my 1991 FJ80, but don't get any movement aside from startup. where it jumps up to about 1000 RPM, then falls to 0 and doesn't move again. (Turning the knob from stop to stop doesn't give it any signs of life.)

1. Is it possible that the tach on the 1991 FJ80s don't function the same as the ones you tested and operate outside of the resistance limits that the MCM needs?

2. Are there parameters that I need to play with on the MCM to send the right signal? I recall Mitch from Swaptime mentioning something about being able to do this, but wanted to see if anyone else had been successful in making those changes.

I am not sure if the 3F-E tach is the same as the 1FZ-FE tach but if you have a pot to adjust, then it probably should work.

The SwapTime MCM just worked with my 1996 LX450 tach...just the RPM was wrong. I didn't adjust anything with the SwapTime MCM itself.

I only adjusted the tach pot to correct for the differences in pulses/rev.

The SwapTime MCM does need to have a working canbus to the GM ECM.

Did you add tye step up resistor

The Swaptime Muscle Car module should output a 12V tach pulse natively (2 pulses/rev). A pullup resistor shouldn't be needed.

However, if it is a weak 12V signal for some reason, a 12V pull up resistor might help. I recall that there is an actual resistor inline in the SwapTime wiring. This could be missing, incorrectly soldered, or incorrectly sized.

The only way to really tell is put the MCM tach signal on a oscilloscope, which most people don't have access to.

 

[Inukshuk]

can someone please shed some light on cutting the shaft on the 4l60E 2nd. Contacted Marks and they said to cut the shaft at 211mm, which I did. Discrepancy, other members who did the swap cut it at 151 mm. As you can see from the picture. If I were to cut it off based on others recommendation. Might be too short. I installed the transfer case and it seems to work fine. Thanks all.

Dealing with this issue right now. This is a heads up to anyone reading the Advance Adapter instructions about cutting the 2WD output shaft of a 4L60e or 4L65e

I cut at 151 mm from the face of the MFC1103 (the first adapter section that converts the 6 bolt 4L65E to a 4 bolt pattern). In your diagrams (8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/post-15505403) the 211 mm from the face of the transmission minus the 41 mm of the MFC1103 nets the 170 mm. The Marks instructions from 2022 are BOTH 19 mm longer, which after my analysis, is just about perfect. I have concerns about having only 20 to 30 mm of spline engagement if I assemble after the 151 mm cut.

I have contacted AA. Will report back.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Dealing with this issue right now. This is a heads up to anyone reading the Advance Adapter instructions about cutting the 2WD output shaft of a 4L60e or 4L65e

I cut at 151 mm from the face of the MFC1103 (the first adapter section that converts the 6 bolt 4L65E to a 4 bolt pattern). In your diagrams (8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/post-15505403) the 211 mm from the face of the transmission minus the 41 mm of the MFC1103 nets the 170 mm. The Marks instructions above from 2022 are BOTH 19 mm longer, which after my analysis, is just about perfect. I have concerns about having only 20 to 30 mm of spline engagement if I assemble after the 151 mm cut.

I have contacted AA. Will report back.

Let us know if they ever respond. I can tell you they will say it's perfectly fine.

 

[TLC94LS]

If you did cut your shaft too short (so to speak) don’t worry you can get another and put in pretty cheap.

 

[Inukshuk]

Let us know if they ever respond. I can tell you they will say it's perfectly fine.

If you did cut your shaft too short (so to speak) don’t worry you can get another and put in pretty cheap.

Yep. Appreciate the replies.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Dealing with this issue right now. This is a heads up to anyone reading the Advance Adapter instructions about cutting the 2WD output shaft of a 4L60e or 4L65e

I cut at 151 mm from the face of the MFC1103 (the first adapter section that converts the 6 bolt 4L65E to a 4 bolt pattern). In your diagrams (8x Series V8 Swaps - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/8x-series-v8-swaps.948869/post-15505403) the 211 mm from the face of the transmission minus the 41 mm of the MFC1103 nets the 170 mm. The Marks instructions above from 2022 are BOTH 19 mm longer, which after my analysis, is just about perfect. I have concerns about having only 20 to 30 mm of spline engagement if I assemble after the 151 mm cut.

I have contacted AA. Will report back.

Honestly, I was horrified at first when I cut it. It works out for me. The shaft on the tranny is cheap to replace but think how much time you have to engage in repairing it. After I cut it, I installed it to the transfer case before connecting to the chassis. Making sure it works. Mark instructions are so outdated and unclear.