Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (15 Viewers)

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180 is too cold for an LS. 215-230 isn’t an unusual temp to see.

My supercharged iron block in my car sits around 220-230 on a normal 110* day and has seen 260 multiple times when it’s snapped blower belts. Not that that hot is okay, but 220 would be plenty acceptable.
 
180 is too cold for an LS. 215-230 isn’t an unusual temp to see.

My supercharged iron block in my car sits around 220-230 on a normal 110* day and has seen 260 multiple times when it’s snapped blower belts. Not that that hot is okay, but 220 would be plenty acceptable.
I agree, the problem is it won't stop at 220 but will keep climbing till I slow down
 
180 is too cold for an LS. 215-230 isn’t an unusual temp to see.

My supercharged iron block in my car sits around 220-230 on a normal 110* day and has seen 260 multiple times when it’s snapped blower belts. Not that that hot is okay, but 220 would be plenty acceptable.
What’s a normal in town temp then ? I have seen 216-220 just cruising in town
 
What’s a normal in town temp then ? I have seen 216-220 just cruising in town
188-195 around town it always stays cool. If I drive backroads and stay under 60 pretty much this is what it runs unless I hit a big hill
 
Hey for Gen3 swap folks. With a 4 pin connector on your alternator. Currently I don’t have anything hooked up to the Toyota side of things, just the GM factory brown wire going to Red pin 15. Which is the “L” lead on the alternator. Any idea which in replicates the signal needed for Toyota charging batt light? I know it’s ground when the alternator is not putting out voltage and would be 12v when working. I guess I can try to meter it while running. Just wanted the quick answer! Thanks!

Edit: I just searched the forum, can you believe I asked the same question last July! Guess I’m just now getting to that charge light! Contact F on the alt was the answer!
 
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can someone please shed some light on cutting the shaft on the 4l60E 2nd. Contacted Marks and they said to cut the shaft at 211mm, which I did. Discrepancy, other members who did the swap cut it at 151 mm. As you can see from the picture. If I were to cut it off based on others recommendation. Might be too short. I installed the transfer case and it seems to work fine. Thanks all.
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can someone please shed some light on cutting the shaft on the 4l60E 2nd. Contacted Marks and they said to cut the shaft at 211mm, which I did. Discrepancy, other members who did the swap cut it at 151 mm. As you can see from the picture. If I were to cut it off based on others recommendation. Might be too short. I installed the transfer case and it seems to work fine. Thanks all. View attachment 3645183View attachment 3645185

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I have the Mark's kit, but running the 4L80. The directions told me to cut at ~3", but I read another thread where they cut at 3.5". So I did 3.5 to make sure there was enough bite, and I could of always cut off more if needed.

Your picture about looks like you did it correctly, so if it fits roll with it.
 
I have the Mark's kit, but running the 4L80. The directions told me to cut at ~3", but I read another thread where they cut at 3.5". So I did 3.5 to make sure there was enough bite, and I could of always cut off more if needed.

Your picture about looks like you did it correctly, so if it fits roll with it.
Yeah man I’d rather cut it longer to be safe than sorrow.
 
Two different transmissions will not be the same measurement
Rockrod who did the swap which I'm thankful for the resourceful info. He cut the shaft at 151mm.
I'm using the same transmission as him.
I pointed the discrepancies out so others can be careful when they decided to cut off the shaft.

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Does the oil pressure switch have to have 2 wires connected to work? Mine was working then stopped. It only had one wire that I can find
 
Does the oil pressure switch have to have 2 wires connected to work? Mine was working then stopped. It only had one wire that I can find

I assume you are referring to the Toyota oil pressure sensor which uses two wires.

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Those wires should be coming from the harness on the passenger side they atr not with the engine harness ac compressor wire is with them also.
 
Well back to my original question about getting the alternator or batt warning light to work with a 4 pin GM plug. I tried splicing into the the “F” contact but that doesn’t work. When I put a ground on the Toyota y/w wire I do get the light and when I put 12v on it, the light goes out as it should. Did anyone hook up the batt/alt light?
 
I assume you are referring to the Toyota oil pressure sensor which uses two wires.

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Thanks, my gauge quit working and the sensor only has the black plug on it. Don’t know what happened to the other wire but I’ll keep searching
 
Well back to my original question about getting the alternator or batt warning light to work with a 4 pin GM plug. I tried splicing into the the “F” contact but that doesn’t work. When I put a ground on the Toyota y/w wire I do get the light and when I put 12v on it, the light goes out as it should. Did anyone hook up the batt/alt light?
The alternator idiot light wire on my ‘97 is yellow/blue. Wired it to the L connection on the alternator.
This works for a pre ‘06 alternator, don’t know about the later ones.
 
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Well back to my original question about getting the alternator or batt warning light to work with a 4 pin GM plug. I tried splicing into the the “F” contact but that doesn’t work. When I put a ground on the Toyota y/w wire I do get the light and when I put 12v on it, the light goes out as it should. Did anyone hook up the batt/alt light?
Yes I hooked that wire up and it is working great. I have one red wire to L terminal on the GM alternator. The same wire is spliced to a Yellow with blue strip wire near EA1, which is by the distribution box behind the battery. Here are some photos. Mine is a 96 LX450 and the wiring diagrams do differ from the Land Cruiser so please verify with your specific wiring diagrams.
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