Curious, what are the symptoms of your cooling issues?
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (21 Viewers)
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I know this is an older post, but how did the 4l70e hold up with the 6.2? I've gone similar with a built 4l70e and a cammed 6.0.Ok I'll play.
1997 LC:
- GM Erod 6.2 LS3 crate engine
- GM 4L70E transmission. Chose 4L over 6L for standalone trans controller, less weight, ease of install, and (hopefully) ease of servicing should anything go wrong on long hauls. Not planning to take the rig over 550 RWHP, and will be towing often.
- Cruise control (converted the shift knob's "overdrive" thumb button to cruise control button)
- Keeping full time AWD
- Frontrunner driveline kit
- Mechanical fan, 20" F150 fan blade, aluminum radiator
- Compushift controller
- Advance Adapters transfer case/adapter kit
- Borla Pro XS exhaust
- Added lots of other fun mods while in there!
Just started her up last weekend and will get a video up of that soon.
Have posted these pics in other discussions so apologies for those who have seen them already. Pics below are out of order on the build - will probably put up a full build detail when it's done:
Has anyone got rid of the stock tcase shifter, and used something else?
I’m adding a blackbox. Since I’m going to have to fab something for that shifter box, and the oem one as well, I might as well integrate them together.
Is there such thing as a “universal” set of dual shifters with adjustable throw?
Picture of the current state. It might not look like much, but it sure is a good feeling to see that LS oil pan peeking out from under there.
I’m adding a blackbox. Since I’m going to have to fab something for that shifter box, and the oem one as well, I might as well integrate them together.
Is there such thing as a “universal” set of dual shifters with adjustable throw?
Picture of the current state. It might not look like much, but it sure is a good feeling to see that LS oil pan peeking out from under there.
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Put a scan gauge on it, I bet your IAT gets really hot. Not good on a v8, I have experienced it start running rough once IAT gets to high.
Manual fan with a clutch and the right shroud is the best thing you can do in my opinion to keep a v8 cool in a Cruiser.
Cheers
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I learned when I was in my 20s building v8 powered toyota trucks that electric fans won't be able to keep up they can buuuut not as reliable as a mechanical fan with a fan shroud. This is back when I was shop Forman at a high end car audio shop where wiring was king to me also no room for mechanical fan in the engine bay also had advanced adapter 4 row radiator still have that pos to this day in storage. If you have the room or can use a mechanical fan it in .my option is the best way to go. This is a customer's 1994 fzf80 mechanical fan and aluminum fabricated fan shroud .
Do you have any data saved before and after I would like to copy it and try to see if i can do anything with my temperature
I just purchased HP tuners so i m looking for references
Nice clean engine bay! What is the square aluminum connector that the heater hoses are attached to?
Looks like one of these: LS Swap Heater Bypass Block - 3/4" and 5/8" Ports - https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-swap-heater-bypass-block
It provides a coolant bypass path for when the heater core valve is closed. Chevy's don't use a valve like that, so the LS is designed to have some coolant flowing through that circuit at all times.
Thanks
-Rob
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Yup
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Alot of guys don't use one but I do.
I don't but will see if my tuner does. We won't be back till sometime in August so my be a bit before I can get it.
Curious what temps you were seeing at highway speeds and what temps your new e-fans are set at.
I tried searching but didn’t come up with much. Maybe I’m using the wrong terms.
Does anyone have a diagram of what connectors are what on an hf2av tcase? Trying to see what I still “really” need to wire back in.
Edit: can anyone verify this to be true? I’m guessing this is what they are.
Does anyone have a diagram of what connectors are what on an hf2av tcase? Trying to see what I still “really” need to wire back in.
Edit: can anyone verify this to be true? I’m guessing this is what they are.
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Hi all, can someone please tell me if the routing for the TVV for EVAP and brake booster from the LC to the LS is correct (image 1)?
Also, the throttle hose goes to the LC radiator right (image2)? They do sell a delete kit, not sure of the advantage.
I'm working on the PSI and custom exhaust next. So excited. Appreciate all.
Also, the throttle hose goes to the LC radiator right (image2)? They do sell a delete kit, not sure of the advantage.
I'm working on the PSI and custom exhaust next. So excited. Appreciate all.
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Brake booster needs direct intake manifold vacuum.
Don’t hook anything up to the EVAP solenoid unless you plan on actually controlling it with the GM logic.
Steam port hose you have correct.
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AC hoses are finally live on the site.
80 Series LS Swap Complete AC Hose & Fitting Kit
Everything needed to get the AC working in your FJ80 or FZJ80 Land Cruiser with a Gen 3 or Gen 4 LS engine. Please select your vehicle's production month/year range in the drop-down menu. Please select if you would like to include the optional machined port for a trinary switch for $25...
cruisermatts.com
Thanks for your advice as always. I ended up capping the solenoid. Can you please elaborate on the
"needs direct intake manifold vacuum". Highlights from pictures is correct? By the way,
I'm glad you finished the AC hoses. Going to save me lots of time trying to figure it out.
Brother is going to be in Orlando next month and will have him pick up the ac adapters from your shop.
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yes, that is correct. From intake right into booster. I am actually going to have a nice aluminum fitting to go right into the intake that will have the correct 10mm barb for Toyota vacuum hose pretty soon so you won't have to do any kind of step-down like you currently do.
Also, I REALLY don't like the way you have your fuel line adapted. Will it probably work fine, yes, have I don't things just as sketchy myself and they've worked fine, yes, but I'm obligated to tell you that isn't safe. In case you don't realize where you have that adapted is the highest pressure location of your whole system the way you have it with it deadheaded at the motor.
Also, I REALLY don't like the way you have your fuel line adapted. Will it probably work fine, yes, have I don't things just as sketchy myself and they've worked fine, yes, but I'm obligated to tell you that isn't safe. In case you don't realize where you have that adapted is the highest pressure location of your whole system the way you have it with it deadheaded at the motor.
Please let us know when you have the aluminum fitting. It was a challenge to adapt the hoses together. I will relocate the to a lower point away from the headers (they get hot). Also, I will wrap the fuel lines with DEI high tempt sleeving. Thanks Matt.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Didn’t know until I was under one today, and never seen it mentioned… The 4x4 Colorado has a trans pan on their 4l60 that was made to clear the passenger side drop front driveshaft. Same valve body underneath.
Should be a big help for anyone who is tight.
Should be a big help for anyone who is tight.
