Builds 76 Project Silver Back (1 Viewer)

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Well I’ve been putting it off long enough. I think it’s time to cut my rear fender openings and install some Bushwacker flares. I think there’s no way around it due to the fact I’m running 35 x 12.5’s. Also, I will probably be installing 1/2” to 1” wheel spacers so flares are almost inevitable.

I know my rig is heavily modified, but there’s something about cutting on my rust free tub that makes me cringe.

What do you guys think? I’m still undecided if I like the look of the flares.

No Flares,
C18A5A6F-5393-436E-B103-D3538C76C1C7.jpeg

Flares
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IMG_0924.JPG
Skip the plastic cheapy flares and install longer bump stops.

Otherwise, show off more of your mad machining and fab skills and do something cool like integrating DOM tubing into the fenders and blending it in with the body and whatever rock sliders you may have.
 
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Hunt down a picture of @jasonbraswell 40 Series. He trimmed his but kept the factory lines...looks good and provided the needed clearance.
 
You can always mount the flares without cutting the w/wells. If necessary do some surgery on the flares instead of the metal. Working with plastic or fiberglass is easier than what you did on that bumper. One thing for sure, whatever you do it will look great. :cheers:
 
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I bought my first 40 with a set of beat up and cracked bw flares. Got a pretty new set and promptly broke one on a trail. Took them off and never looked back. As already suggested build something better or go with longer bump stops, your build is too nice for those flares.
 
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Time for another update and a break from the rear bumper.

I was planning on holding off on the rear disc conversion until someone posted a thread with really nice pdf drawings of the rear disc.

I was able to take the PDF and covert it into a usable DXF file that can be used in my water jet at work. If anyone would like a copy I would be more than happy to share.

8C3435B3-A897-4CBB-93CA-E6D87A811850.jpeg


Tapping the holes for the caliper mounting bolts.
9274F0E9-D189-40A7-AD12-5DA4EC2C101C.jpeg


A little grinding on the calipers for clearance.
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Test fit
73634344-12BB-4D13-BDCF-53EA973DA52F.jpeg
 
I was able to cut off the backing plates with a Sawsall. No need to take out the axles.

1CA978C9-5817-486A-97B7-76F2002AD575.jpeg

Here’s some spacers made out of .125”
FB43F9DC-40CE-498F-998E-1546F79D41B5.jpeg


Test fitted the brackets. This will be the best position and will allow the calipier pins to pull out without any interference.
C709920F-93B8-4145-98F8-775CAFDEF51E.jpeg


Here the PN for the disc. I purchased these from Advanced Auto. Keep in mind these are the non-heavy duty disc. The Heavy duty disc are to fat. Ask me how I know.

CD537689-62F0-49C6-8B4D-D0C786B80338.jpeg


Here’s a picture boring out the centers to 4.180” My lathe isn’t big enough so I had to do it on my mill. Man did this suck! .050” cuts at a time took forever and it throws hot metal dust everywhere!
42E76CC9-80E6-4509-A279-A9A9C292EFFA.jpeg
 
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Well I’ve been putting it off long enough. I think it’s time to cut my rear fender openings and install some Bushwacker flares. I think there’s no way around it due to the fact I’m running 35 x 12.5’s. Also, I will probably be installing 1/2” to 1” wheel spacers so flares are almost inevitable.

I know my rig is heavily modified, but there’s something about cutting on my rust free tub that makes me cringe.

What do you guys think? I’m still undecided if I like the look of the flares.

No Flares,
View attachment 1692363
Flares
View attachment 1692364
Is your rear axle in the s tock position? Or is it moved back? I would probably flex it out and go from their. I have a feeling you'll have to cut the fenders. U could cut the holes bigger but go flareless like @S4Cruiser did.
 
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