Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (6 Viewers)

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Some of the hotrod guys are putting an extension at the Holley for the throttle cable. It seems to help.

I installed the Holley lever extension. Made a huge difference. I was fighting a quick throttle off the start with the Sniper especially since upgrading to 411s.. This extension makes the stroke more progressive. Had to use the Holley SRK-4000 bracket to run throttle cable to the back of the Sniper. You have to angle it to help the throttle cable get around the booster. Much smother throttle response off the bottom. with the extension.
 
I installed the Holley lever extension. Made a huge difference. I was fighting a quick throttle off the start with the Sniper especially since upgrading to 411s.. This extension makes the stroke more progressive. Had to use the Holley SRK-4000 bracket to run throttle cable to the back of the Sniper. You have to angle it to help the throttle cable get around the booster. Much smother throttle response off the bottom. with the extension.

That’s great news. I don’t have any miles on our build yet but the pedal seems touchy. I’ll install the extension soon.
 
Here are pics as requested of the Holley Sniper bracket and lever extension. You will see I had to angle the bracket allowing the trotttle cable to clear the booster. I considered the Lokar bracket referenced above. Wonder if it would mount more square or allow easier clearance from the booster?
IMG_4881.jpg
IMG_4883.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics. Do you think it'll be a problem down the road with the cable hitting the edge where it exits the tube/sleeve/end? It looks like a wear point...
 
Is the solid orange line about what the extension bracket does? (this image from this thread)

View attachment 2392908
Yes, the red dotted line would represent the angle of attack on my setup. I did have binding without using the spring that came with the 4001 Hollley bracket. Once I installed the spring that came with the bracket, throttle worked great. My first setup had the bracket on the front of the Holley attaching the cable to the bottom hole on the Sniper linkage. Throttle response was way too snappy especially from a stop. I then installed the 4001 bracket with the cable going in the hole shown with your blue line. Made a noticeable improvement. When I installed the Holley extension lever ($12), I got an even better throttle response. Softer, more controllable off the bottom and becomes more progressive mid to top.

I'm finding the Sniper is not as plug and play as I originally thought. I could live with some of the quirks but will be investing in a cheap PC laptop to start tuning. The Holley software does not run on a Mac. Have been lurking on the Holley site and starting to pick up on this foreign language of fine tuning high performance engines. I'm sure I will show my ignorance when I start asking questions on the Holley site about tuning my 2-barrel fork lift engine. Fortunately you can pick up a lot about tuning on this site by searching.

Did have a problem with the O2 sensor which seems to be a potential weak link from what I have read. Sensors go bad. I was seeing my AFR value reading "heating" in yellow text and then would turn to "slow!" in red. This only happened when the engine temp was below 160. The sensor worked fine once it got to operating temperature. Holley sells replacements O2 sensors for around $110. You can get the Bosch version for about $70. For grins I ordered a knock-off (probably is the Bosch?) for $31 on Amazon. Plugged it in and all my issues with bad O2 sensor went away. Will be ordering another one as a backup to keep in the rig.

Still consider the Holley sniper the best mechanical upgrade I have done to the 60.
 
Yes, the red dotted line would represent the angle of attack on my setup. I did have binding without using the spring that came with the 4001 Hollley bracket. Once I installed the spring that came with the bracket, throttle worked great. My first setup had the bracket on the front of the Holley attaching the cable to the bottom hole on the Sniper linkage. Throttle response was way too snappy especially from a stop. I then installed the 4001 bracket with the cable going in the hole shown with your blue line. Made a noticeable improvement. When I installed the Holley extension lever ($12), I got an even better throttle response. Softer, more controllable off the bottom and becomes more progressive mid to top.

I'm finding the Sniper is not as plug and play as I originally thought. I could live with some of the quirks but will be investing in a cheap PC laptop to start tuning. The Holley software does not run on a Mac. Have been lurking on the Holley site and starting to pick up on this foreign language of fine tuning high performance engines. I'm sure I will show my ignorance when I start asking questions on the Holley site about tuning my 2-barrel fork lift engine. Fortunately you can pick up a lot about tuning on this site by searching.

Did have a problem with the O2 sensor which seems to be a potential weak link from what I have read. Sensors go bad. I was seeing my AFR value reading "heating" in yellow text and then would turn to "slow!" in red. This only happened when the engine temp was below 160. The sensor worked fine once it got to operating temperature. Holley sells replacements O2 sensors for around $110. You can get the Bosch version for about $70. For grins I ordered a knock-off (probably is the Bosch?) for $31 on Amazon. Plugged it in and all my issues with bad O2 sensor went away. Will be ordering another one as a backup to keep in the rig.

Still consider the Holley sniper the best mechanical upgrade I have done to the 60.


Share the amazon link for you knock off o2!
 
Yes, the red dotted line would represent the angle of attack on my setup. I did have binding without using the spring that came with the 4001 Hollley bracket. Once I installed the spring that came with the bracket, throttle worked great. My first setup had the bracket on the front of the Holley attaching the cable to the bottom hole on the Sniper linkage. Throttle response was way too snappy especially from a stop. I then installed the 4001 bracket with the cable going in the hole shown with your blue line. Made a noticeable improvement. When I installed the Holley extension lever ($12), I got an even better throttle response. Softer, more controllable off the bottom and becomes more progressive mid to top.

I'm finding the Sniper is not as plug and play as I originally thought. I could live with some of the quirks but will be investing in a cheap PC laptop to start tuning. The Holley software does not run on a Mac. Have been lurking on the Holley site and starting to pick up on this foreign language of fine tuning high performance engines. I'm sure I will show my ignorance when I start asking questions on the Holley site about tuning my 2-barrel fork lift engine. Fortunately you can pick up a lot about tuning on this site by searching.

Did have a problem with the O2 sensor which seems to be a potential weak link from what I have read. Sensors go bad. I was seeing my AFR value reading "heating" in yellow text and then would turn to "slow!" in red. This only happened when the engine temp was below 160. The sensor worked fine once it got to operating temperature. Holley sells replacements O2 sensors for around $110. You can get the Bosch version for about $70. For grins I ordered a knock-off (probably is the Bosch?) for $31 on Amazon. Plugged it in and all my issues with bad O2 sensor went away. Will be ordering another one as a backup to keep in the rig.

Still consider the Holley sniper the best mechanical upgrade I have done to the 60.

I am starting to feel like a dinosaur with my rod linkage... but it is working for me!
 
I am starting to feel like a dinosaur with my rod linkage... but it is working for me!
I'm curious Dustin. With ignition on but motor not running, what does your screen indicate your throttle position (TPI) at when you press the gas peddle to the floor? I followed suit with the throttle rod as I liked your idea. It does work fairly well, but I only get 70% TBI max with the rod attached to lower left hole on the Sniper linkage. The other hole puts the rod directly in line with the pivot so it bindes. I can take pictures later today. It runs great around town but accelerating at speed to pass or pulling grades at speed is underwhelming. It falls flat after 50% throttle. Thanks
 
... It runs great around town but accelerating at speed to pass or pulling grades at speed is underwhelming. It falls flat after 50% throttle...

You may be able to tune this for better full throttle performance.

What is your WOT AFR? How does the real time AFR reading respond when you give it full throttle? (computer doesn’t not need to see 100% to go into the WOT programming).

What is your timing adjusted to? Vac advance hooked up and to the correct port in the dizzy?
 
You may be able to tune this for better full throttle performance.

What is your WOT AFR? How does the real time AFR reading respond when you give it full throttle? (computer doesn’t not need to see 100% to go into the WOT programming).

What is your timing adjusted to? Vac advance hooked up and to the correct port in the dizzy?
Lol, thanks Cam, I appreciate you taking an interest. Right now timing is set to 7° BTDC (on the beebee). AFR runs about 12.5 to 14.2 at WOT (about where it was programed), just a little richer than 14.7 cruising. There is a definite spot on the throttle where the motor boggs no matter the load or speed. If I back off, it picks up a bit, but not as well as it did with the Aisan carb. I wish you were near by, I haven't found a local mechanic that I can trust. I probably just need a "glass belly button" ( I may have my head so far up my arse that I can't see)
 
If you have the WOT AFR set above 12.5, try lowering it down to 12.5 or so. Much over that usually results in bogging/less power. Your cruise might be a little lean too. We usually go 14 or so and adjust from there.

Your timing could probably be bumped as well. Usually guys end up around 10 or so, but you do want to be sure you are a few degrees away from any detonation.
 
FYI it’s likely that any O2 sensor will work as they all operate the same way. Two wire sensors are just the sensor and 3 wire sensors typically have a heater to help get them to operating temp faster. The only difference is in the wire length and connector type....possibly the thread as well. For example the Saab O2 sensors used to be $150 but the sensor for a 5.0 ford worked just fine if you spliced the Saab connector on. And the ford model was $50.
 
If you have the WOT AFR set above 12.5, try lowering it down to 12.5 or so. Much over that usually results in bogging/less power. Your cruise might be a little lean too. We usually go 14 or so and adjust from there.

Your timing could probably be bumped as well. Usually guys end up around 10 or so, but you do want to be sure you are a few degrees away from any detonation.
This advice is golden! I haven't yet advanced the timing, but adjusting the basic fuel to your recommendations really woke it up. The bog is still there (starting at 46% TPI), but it pulls so good I'm having to shift gears before I can use more throttle. It's so much fun now that MPG will suffer. Thank you Cam
 
The goodies have hit the table. Time to mate them up.

6808DFB7-7A3B-4AD5-A9CE-31910B63AFC7.jpeg
 
I'm curious Dustin. With ignition on but motor not running, what does your screen indicate your throttle position (TPI) at when you press the gas peddle to the floor? I followed suit with the throttle rod as I liked your idea. It does work fairly well, but I only get 70% TBI max with the rod attached to lower left hole on the Sniper linkage. The other hole puts the rod directly in line with the pivot so it bindes. I can take pictures later today. It runs great around town but accelerating at speed to pass or pulling grades at speed is underwhelming. It falls flat after 50% throttle. Thanks

I haven’t done mine since installed but I remember not having 70 for sure.
 

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