Just discovered my flat spot issue. The new and pricey HEI distributor's "went south." Not even 2000 miles on it. No wonder my timing was inconsistent! I could still turn the shaft, but with considerable effort. Amazing it ran at all. Sometimes it would advance and stick, sometimes retard and stick. I'll put the stock dizzy back in. Ugh!
Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (5 Viewers)
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midknightc3
SILVER Star
Was this one of the DUI's like I just installed? It has crossed my mind to send my OEM setup off to JimC just to have it around...
I've seen DUI and HEI style. DUI is made here in the states and the HEI's are typically offshore. I think the DUI is over $400 with wires.
I pulled it apart to find that the grease dried out seizing the advance and adding some serious friction. Having never disassembled a dizzy before, I destroyed the copper windings under the magnetic pick up. The vendor shipped me out a new one gratis. Now I know why it ran at 29° advance! I though I was a tooth off. But now I know. Funny how good it did run without any advance at all.
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midknightc3
SILVER Star
I'm going to back mine off to 10*, at 13* I'm getting some pretty bad detonation under mid throttle. Good news is that the flat spot is rapidly disappearing and I think I have fixed the vacuum leak...maybe...I hope! Now to get the exhaust leak fixed...
Some of the hotrod guys are putting an extension at the Holley for the throttle cable. It seems to help.
Holley Sniper EFI 20-16 Sniper EFI Throttle Lever Extension
The Sniper EFI Throttle Lever Extension provides significantly decreased pedal effort and a smoother pedal feel. This is especially noticeable at tip-in or low throttle input, such as when you are leaving a stoplight. This solution is great for those that may have noticed a stiffer throttle...
www.holley.com
I found that 13* did the same for me unless I ran non ethanol 93. Only part throttle.
midknightc3
SILVER Star
Hmm, that extension might be just the ticket. Took her off road a bit today and had some issues with giving her way too much throttle when I was trying to just crack it open past idle.
I took the timing light with me today and adjusted as I went, I'm all the way back to a factory 7* and she seems pretty settled in there, just a hint of ping when accelerating from lower RPM in 2nd gear under full throttle. Surprised I'm all the way back to 7*, but I also run what ever ethanol 87 octane crap I can get. Have considered tuning for fancier stuff, but 87 and sometimes 85 octane are the only available options at many of the more remote stations I tend to rely upon on my trips.
On another note, I have a significant ignition noise under my dash now. It is 100% tied to RPM and kinda sounds like EMI, but it's not coming from the stereo speakers or Ham radio. I'm currently running crappy plug wires while I not so patiently await the LiveWires to go with the DUI, so maybe that change over will solve the issue? It's an extremely distinctive thump thump thump that perfectly matches RPM and quits the instant I kill the ignition, even though the engine will continue to rotate for a half second or more, so it's not a mechanical noise. I did do a good test drive with the DUI before continuing with the Sniper however, and don't remember noticing it then.
Clark
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Dustin Messina
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #809
Few things suck worse than a knuckle job. Through in changing out the 3rd too and well.... complete suck. A lot of cleaning and painting and everything is about ready to go back together. Adding as many new parts as I can.. brake lines, loaded calipers, oem rotors, RCV axles too name a little. I will be pressure washing my axle as well you can see its nasty.
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #810
Side not if you use new OEM rotors you have to ditch the bolts holding hub to rotor. Part number 43512-60100 is the only one available now that is OEM.
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #811
If anyone is following along and knows about LSDs and can answer this. If you look into the housing you see something protruding into where you axle will slide in. If you reference the picture of my finger that is about all the spline engagement I will have before the axle hits this. Roughly an 1" which just doesn't seem like enough. I assumed this is a function of the lsd operation or engagement. If anyone can chime in I would appreciate it.
Out with the old and in with the new! When I picked up my FF rear from @orangefj45 I also grabbed an OEM lsd that you can see above. I got it rebuilt and matted up to some 4.1s for the h55 coming soon. I have the RCVs on deck and ready to go.
Out with the old and in with the new! When I picked up my FF rear from @orangefj45 I also grabbed an OEM lsd that you can see above. I got it rebuilt and matted up to some 4.1s for the h55 coming soon. I have the RCVs on deck and ready to go.
4.10's and H55 + the add traction! It's on my list too. Im looking forward to the end result, but no so much with putting it in on my sloped driveway. I built a spreadsheet to compare tire sizes, different r&p ratios, and diff ratios. H55 alone is the best improvement, but 4.10's combined with it and you will be crawling much better and pulling grades on the freeways like never before.
Dustin Messina
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #813
Hit a little snag on the 3rd and had to pull it out. The piece I referenced above in the LSD that was sticking into my spline engagement area was actually flipped backwards. Not a biggie. Flipped it, reinstalled the 3rd (always sucks by yourself laying down under the truck) and finished building out my knuckles! Messy job for sure. The RCVs are solid and I like you can grease them from the ends.
Nothing like seeing all the new parts after the install. Step 2 is finished in my h55 swap. Rear axle done, front axle finished, and now the 55 is all that is left.
Side not: I am having to get the rear drive shaft cut down a couple inches. The FF with the Harrop sticks out further and my slip yolk wont slip. Should pick it up this week.
Nothing like seeing all the new parts after the install. Step 2 is finished in my h55 swap. Rear axle done, front axle finished, and now the 55 is all that is left.
Side not: I am having to get the rear drive shaft cut down a couple inches. The FF with the Harrop sticks out further and my slip yolk wont slip. Should pick it up this week.
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #814
Went super overkill and picked up a Warn Zeon Platinum 12k winch off of market place. I like the idea of being able to power things off the winch and use the wireless controller to control them. It was a super tight fit in the 4plus and I had to change my mounts for my lights, but it’s in!
I then started tackling the Wagon Gear rear panels. Sound proof is going in tomorrow. I really like how clean and durable these are.
I then started tackling the Wagon Gear rear panels. Sound proof is going in tomorrow. I really like how clean and durable these are.
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #815
Sound deadening material in, panels bolted up, these things are cool!
When I picked this rear bumper up the previous owner had 4 lights installed. I haven’t hooked then up, but today I ran them to the accessory port on the winch. I now cut them on and off with my winch controller. I won’t use them much and this keeps from running new wires through firewall and switches in cab.
When I picked this rear bumper up the previous owner had 4 lights installed. I haven’t hooked then up, but today I ran them to the accessory port on the winch. I now cut them on and off with my winch controller. I won’t use them much and this keeps from running new wires through firewall and switches in cab.
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Dustin, Don't know where i missed it, but,,,where did you get those panels???
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #818
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #819
Dustin Messina
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- Thread starter
- #820
I saw a few post where people were using plywood to hold some cargo down. Figure I would give it a try. I don’t have a cargo barrier and this would allow me some anchor points and a place to put my fridge slide. This is just set in the back at the moment. The idea being it can be removed and one giant piece of wood will not go flying as easily as smaller items. If I like it I can always hold the plywood down with some longer bolts through the factory anchor points. It came out alright.
oh and you can get a 4x8 sheet of plywood inside a 100 series and close the doors.
oh and you can get a 4x8 sheet of plywood inside a 100 series and close the doors.
