Put in a fairly large order with the good doctor Atv. Aside from the comfort in knowing how solid your bike is you quickly realize that even $2k for a good running rideable example is a steal. It’s very easy to spend a $1000 on parts to revive...
Ok. Super easy way to check the pedal. Open the hood. Disconnect one of the ball joints so the carb is free from the gas pedal. Does the gas pedal and remaking link just flip around or does it stick?
Was looking around on the Google last night and saw a thread here on CT90’s. I hang out in the 60 section most of the time and forget there’s another whole realm to the site. Anyways 20 years ago I bought and fixed up a 71 Red CT90. Foolishly...
2004 KTM 950 adventure
2007 KTM 690. Currently working on a carb conversion.
Picture from the 2011 Australasian Safari Rally
73 Honda CL350
71 Honda CT90 project I just picked up
2009 Husaberg FE450…have to find a picture.
I don’t think it would be a big deal to rewrite the alternator to work like other vehicles. Basically the circuit is 12v through a fuse through the dash light to the back of the alternator. When the alternator starts charging the circuit loses...
It took the shop about 40 minutes to cut out the old muffler just behind the flange joint, weld in a new Magnaflow, and bend a new SS tailpipe from the muffler back to the rear bumper. They used a 5x8x14 Magnaflow. They charged $200 for the labor...
Thanks all for the help. I ended up switching out the coil did not help but seems to start a bit quicker. @Seth S you were spot on. I picked up some carb cleaner and sprayed around the base of the carb and intake/exhaust manifold. I noticed a...
If the fuses are good I would check to see if you have power and ground at the headlight connector. If no then go check to see if the relay is firing. If yes then try a new bulb.
Sounds correct. I don’t know if the carb fan will turn on when engine is running or if it’s engine off only? I haven’t done any googling or diagram reviewing to answer this for myself yet.
I’ll expand my thought process for the OP. The carb fan is ultimately needed to help cool the carb after shutdown and reduce or eliminate vapor lock…where fuel basically gasifies in the lines. So dieseling occurs before the carb fan ever turns...
Concerning the valve adjustment…if you set the valves when the engine is cold then they will be tighter at operating temp. Setting the valves cold you could got 10 and 16 and still be fine. A little looser on the clearance is always better than...
You might consider having it hot dip galvanized. Should cost around $1000-$1500 to have done. The end result is a chassis with protection hood for 40+ years of abuse.
Before we go down a rabbit hole that you will find to be deep and twisty…what is the current state of your engine. Is it likely that it hasn’t seen any real maintenance in the past 30 years beyond the basics like oil changes, filters, and...
This and T stat cycling open and closed. If the T stat is working properly it will open and close regularly to allow coolant flow through the radiator. You can feel a real obvious temp difference in the air coming through the radiator between...
All of my starting, idling, stalling, driving issues went away after I gave in and did a full service of the intake/exhaust manifold side of the engine. It was about $1000 of parts and machine shop work but it’s what was needed after 30+ years
Let’s run through the basics:
1. When the temp gage gets to the red does the truck boil over?
2. If you stand by the drivers side fender with the hood open and the truck idling…so the air from the fan is hitting you…do you feel the air get hot...
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