The welders thread (1 Viewer)

[64Rotorhead]

Sectioned these welds, polished and some Naval Jelly. 50%! 2 good roots, 2 bad. Just goes to show that I need to focus more on the root pass, probably not worry about much weave at all, just nail that leading edge of the puddle, and not move through too fast. Although no pic of the HAZ, I think it's looking a lot better too.

What I'm wondering about is the joints indicated by arrows. I haven't seen any welds on Youtube or elsewhere, which has that area being penetrated. Even on Jody's videos. So as long as weld beads are thick as base metal, and fuse the root well, then that's ok?

I could also turn up the voltage and wfs. I just used the auto set, but it allows adjustment up and down from what the machine suggests. I'll try another one hotter.

And no, I didn't bother finishing all the multiple passes, just wanted to check the roots mostly

 

[desertdweller]

Brown Santa brought me a present today!

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I have an AHP. It has been pretty good, though I did have to warranty it once.
I'd suggest getting a Weldcraft CK-9 style torch with their superflex hose and a gas lens kit.
Have fun!

 

[desertdweller]

The latest version comes with a flex head torch and a flex hose. It's not as nice as a super flex, but still very nice. I'm definitely going to stick with the 17 size torch for now. May build a water cooler and upgrade to a 20 down the road.

 

[64Rotorhead]

I'm wondering if any of you guys have an opinion on this. I've got AA engine mounts for mounting my Vortec. There are just the two welds on each side as shown in pic. Seems to me I'd like a little more. I was thinking of adding in the piece I made, as shown in the pic, and weld up that end a little bit. The notch is keep a water drain. Overkill? Good idea? Just seems a bit light on their welds.

 

[desertdweller]

I'm sure they're fine. But , I would want more.

 

[Pin_Head]

Those looks like "MIG like Tig" welds that are fashionable among self taught operators. If you did that in welding class, the instructor would slap you upside the head and say "quit screwing around". Besides the travel speed being too high, the operator is whipping ahead of the puddle to lay an overlapping puddle that looks like a Tig weld when the operator is dipping too slowly. They problably have a lack of fusion at the root of the trailing edge of each puddle he jumped in to. The throat also looks thin. It couldn't hurt to grind them out and lay in a proper bead.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Thanks, that single pass just doesn't seem like enough, the throat thickness doesn't even look like the same depth as the base metal.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Single pass is plenty sufficient for that gauge material assuming proper wire feed rate, torch speed and amperage. That's plenty of weld to hold the two parts of the assembly together. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[hiluxjeremy]

If anybody is looking for a how-to pic for laying beads that will produce cracks in a timely fashion, look no further. Always, always, wrap your corners.

 

[120mm]

I don't have pictures of my welds, but I'm a friggin' Luddite and exclusively use oxy-acetylene for welds. I'm a huge fan of Meco midget torch for welding, with an ancient regular torch for heating and cutting I got from my Dad/Grand-dad.

Hooked to an economizer, it is a really nice way to go.

OBTW, my background is welding tube aircraft fuselages and basic metal fabrication and repair.

 

[MrMoMo]

I wouldn't lay that extra plate in the bottom and weld it - That's where the water and crud are supposed to be able to drain out IMHO.

 

[Varty Yo]

Has anyone welded 16g 316 stainless exhaust pipe with stick?

I really dont have my tig machine set up and i dont plan on doing it anytime soon so im wondering how hard it will be to stick weld it. I have 3/32 309L stainless rod and have welded alot of stainless plate etc. I should mention it really isnt exhaust piping it sanitary stainless pipe so a bit thicker.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Picked up a cute little Lincoln multi process rig for great price off local classifieds. I learned to MIG (and TIG a little) in school and it's been good for the dinking around I've done so far with it, but stick can go straight to hell. And I'm going to need stick to re-weld the captive nut that broke loose taking my old hitch off.

 

[brian]

Has anyone welded 16g 316 stainless exhaust pipe with stick?

I really dont have my tig machine set up and i dont plan on doing it anytime soon so im wondering how hard it will be to stick weld it. I have 3/32 309L stainless rod and have welded alot of stainless plate etc. I should mention it really isnt exhaust piping it sanitary stainless pipe so a bit thicker.

it would be a train wreck.

 

[smallmos]

I have been having an interest on welding lately. Don’t mind me, saying that I now had been showing a little interest with my dad’s workshop. He was an hobbyist. I plan on doing the same. Don’t know how, or why. Ok, for why maybe the answer is, I miss him. When I’m in his workshop, I feel he is around because it was one place he would be mostly after his work and on weekends. Now am the one using his vehicle too. While he was present, I would say I won’t touch that steering no matter what an’ all. I never did too .
I’m a MIS agent in an outsourcing company. But the data that I manage is now mostly stable and I get time in catching up with few works. But am pretty bad right now and am willing to even try up some learning. My fascination is on improving stick welding techniques with the Miller 250p AC/DC welder which my dad used. Could you please suggest me a good course which I can attend to from the list using which I may perhaps gain a second career through the hobby that my dad pursued.
Thanks

 

[billmc]

Now that a small but unexpected annual bonus is burning a hole in my pocket, my mind has naturally turned to welders. For the last couple of years I've been doing a lot of TIG welding with a small lunchbox-sized Arc One TIG/Stick machine that I picked up used for $100. It's been great, and I've gotten pretty good at managing with scratch start and controlling voltage with tip distance, but I'm really hankering for a pedal, pre/post flow, pulse and especially high freak start. So being a lazy shopper I'm leaning toward the SQUARE WAVE® TIG 200 TIG WELDER. My main interest is working with thin sheet (body work on my 40) and other light welding projects which may include aluminum, etc, but it's dual voltage so I could up the amperage limit for thinker metals by getting a 240 volt outlet installed in my garage. Anyone have opinions on the suitablility of this machine for that type of work? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Brown Santa brought me a present today!View attachment 1412256
View attachment 1412257

How do you like this setup?

I've been looking to pick one up for home/travel use

Any issues running 110?

 

[cruisermatt]

I didn’t like mine very much until I hooked it up to a quality regulator, whole new machine after that. Use the included regulator on a MIG and buy a nice one for the TIG, which will be a lot more sensitive.

I haven’t ran mine on 110 yet.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

How do you like this setup?

I've been looking to pick one up for home/travel use

Any issues running 110?

I have this welder and have run it on 110.
I was welding some 3/16 steel and it held the arc, but the power line was getting pretty warm. I wouldn't do much more than 100 - 120 amps on it (1/8th inch) for any extended period of time.

OVerall, it's not a bad welder for the money. I demoo'd a Diversion 165, millers 'Entery level' TIG machine. It was better than the AHP, but I'd only say 200-300 better... Not $1000 better...