Builds FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build (3 Viewers)

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Look at the mug on that...

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Locker install going down.
I have the same locker sitting on my bench for the last year. I haven't put it in because, I am concerned about how it will change the driving characteristics. I don't need it often, but it would be nice when I do. How does it feel compared to the stock open diff. on the road?
 
Late night welding on the 80 rear axle.

Popped over at 5pm and we stopped at about 1:30am, couch surfed till the AM.

Now that the perches are welded in place, I need to get the rest of the axle re-built and the brake lines plumbed.

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#HausofKlaus coffee in bed (when you make it)


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@Kleatus does have some nice touches when you bring your rig over. Simple dash reminders are thoughtful and hand written.

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On the departure the dang window fell off the regulator.


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There’s more to the story. Dave and Frank (his BFF the plant) had further adventures this week, Frank was greatly over-served at the Monthly Seattle Cruiserheads meeting and had to be carried to the the car by Dave...
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I have the same locker sitting on my bench for the last year. I haven't put it in because, I am concerned about how it will change the driving characteristics. I don't need it often, but it would be nice when I do. How does it feel compared to the stock open diff. on the road?

Driving characteristics are different. Most noticeably turning both at speed and slowly. Taking a 90 degree turn I end up giving it power and coasting thru the turn with the clutch pedal in.

I would much rather have a selectable locker and plan to down the road. But for $100 I paid for it and I was able to do the install myself I'll live with the poor road manners for the time being.
 
Was working on getting the new wheels on yesterday and USPS rolls up with a special package from AUS.

Picking it up I knew it wasn't going to be good. Bubble wrap and pallet wrap won't keep tempered glass in one piece for international shipping.

Dealing with sourcing a set of glass for the sides. 1/4 windows and regulators came thru fine.

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On the plus side, wheels mounted up. I'm liking the stance.

Wheels are FJC 17 x 7.5 steelies w 4.5 BS

Once the 80 series axle is in the tires should fit well in the back. They are really close to the inner fender and anything off camber would likely rub currently.

Front will eventually be getting FROR kit and IFS hubs. Which should space out the front. I have a buddy sending me some 1.5" spacers in the meantime. Thanks @xtiaan2000
 
Early 60 bumper mounts in great shape. Getting ready for a SR. hope this will balance out my stink bug.

Hope to get the 80 rear axle perches set today with the help of @Kleatus.

I don't have the whole thing re-built yet so it will be just to get perches welded in then finish the re-build at my place. (Might be time to get a welder)


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Picked this up last week! Excited to find one. Thanks @Ian Crawford
Hey Dave, if you don’t have any plans for those front bumper brackets or intend to save them then I’ll take them off your hands. If so let me know what you need for them and we can connect on them in CO.
 
That’s a huge bummer on the glass. I kept everything to convert mine back to regular glass in case I break one. They are hard to find replacements
 
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Pounded old races out of the hubs and slammed some paint on the housing.

Have everything to re-build the axle. So going to try and get it under the rig this week. Brake lines will be the most challenging I'm thinking as I've never bent/flared lines before.
 
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Pounded old races out of the hubs and slammed some paint on the housing.

Have everything to re-build the axle. So going to try and get it under the rig this week. Brake lines will be the most challenging I'm thinking as I've never bent/flared lines before.

Reuse the long hardline (driver side) from the 60, and for the short side, head to your LAPS (Advance, Napa, etc.) and they should have pre-flared tube with installed fittings in straight lengths of 2-4” increments. Get one of those and bend it up.
And you’ll need some short soft lines for the calipers so you can pull them off without bleeding if you want to mess with the parking brake later (you will)
 
Reuse the long hardline (driver side) from the 60, and for the short side, head to your LAPS (Advance, Napa, etc.) and they should have pre-flared tube with installed fittings in straight lengths of 2-4” increments. Get one of those and bend it up.
And you’ll need some short soft lines for the calipers so you can pull them off without bleeding if you want to mess with the parking brake later (you will)

Thanks Matt. I'll take a look at the softlines.
 
From this..

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To this...


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Packed some bearings and hubs today.

Pro-Tip:

When installing the "keyed" thrust washer take note of the holes that are in the washer (like the one below, thanks @beno for the beautiful hand modeling)

These are indexed so that they line up with scribe marks on the exterior of the spindle lip on the very edge of the axle. This pretty much let's you know where to line up the holes on the spindle lock with the thrust washer in order to place the set screws.

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Full Float God.. is that you?

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Kinda think this is going to work, guess we will see how good the Oreilys flaring set is and my sick first time skills.

Routing may have been a bit generous around the leaf packs, but I won't really know until tomorrow when I try and get the axle in.

I ended up re-using the 80 brake union, and after the video flipped it to face the other way. I'll need to add a attatchment point for that and then possibly a couple more to help keep the line in place.

I plan to route the diff breather hose along the brake line like this photo from Torfab on Theron's Bean build thread.

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I flared some fuel lines a while back, didn't have much experience, and had a cheapy flaring tool.
Tips:
use piping/tubing cutter
make cut as square as possible
deburr/clean interior and exterior edges
if your tool has a casting mark on the die, your flare will have a casting mark on it, so I used some very fine grit sandpaper and with a couple (literally 2) passes it was unnoticable
lubricate EVERYTHING threads/die face/tubing(I would use brake fluid)
use spare pipe/tubing to practice a few times to get your anvil height/tubing protrusion set

HTH
Seeing the FJC wheels on your rig makes me wish I/my wife hadn't sold them to ya, but I'm glad to see them getting used
 
I flared some fuel lines a while back, didn't have much experience, and had a cheapy flaring tool.
Tips:
use piping/tubing cutter
make cut as square as possible
deburr/clean interior and exterior edges
if your tool has a casting mark on the die, your flare will have a casting mark on it, so I used some very fine grit sandpaper and with a couple (literally 2) passes it was unnoticable
lubricate EVERYTHING threads/die face/tubing(I would use brake fluid)
use spare pipe/tubing to practice a few times to get your anvil height/tubing protrusion set

HTH
Seeing the FJC wheels on your rig makes me wish I/my wife hadn't sold them to ya, but I'm glad to see them getting used

Thanks for the tips! I still need to find a spare. I'm hoping to powdercoated them down the line in a dark grey color. I forgot to shoot you a photo now that they are finally on. Excited to get the back spacing back in line with the 80 axle and 1.5" spacers out front.
 
Ready to loose that axle

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Doing this as a one person job with one floor jack I needed to get a little creative.

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Death cribbing?


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80 Axle is out back. I will be re-doing the brake lines to clean it up. I will be using the template I already have and make the middle uBolt bends less dramatic. I didn't test the flares but I'm figuring you get better as you go along.


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Plan is to get the diff/axles/seals in, re-bend brake lines. Have a new MC and booster to install today as well. Fingers crossed I'm rolling by the end of the day.
 

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