Builds FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build

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ABS Sensor Delete cover. These will get painted then FIPG behind them.

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Lines are bent and done. I'm happy with how clean everything looks. Should have bent the lines under the rig instead of the time spent earlier in the week, hindsight and all.

I will still need to add a couple small brackets, 2 for brake line holders and one for the parking brake cable.

Diff is up and in place

No photos of this but image Susan Somers laying under the rear axle of a 60 trying to hold a rear diff balanced on top of a floor jack.

While holding the third with both hands I would work the jack with my legs until I could get the bottom of the third closed to level with the housing.


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Driver side axle is in, passenger side may have some studs that need to be replaced. I'll try and file the edges to see if I can get the nut on. Have been thinking about how to remove them if I can't get a nut on.
 
Waiting on more brake parts to roll in. Needed to order another set of flare fittings. If you look at the first photo below you can see one that needs to be replaced.

Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DAQ0MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


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Using the Supra stuff based on the size/dimensions. I wanted a 1" bore, and a 9.5" dual diaphragm booster.

Jumped on RockAuto and checked a couple year/models and found the Supra stuff on a close-out section.

Useful chart pilfered from this site:

Roundforge.com


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When re-building the 80 FF I used this thread:

How-to: rear axle rebuild

From my experience pick up some extra (or plan to replace them) studs as the threads from the existing ones can get messed up during the re-build or getting the races out.

The fruits of my labor

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The standard part number for the stud nuts is 90170-08204

After the threads getting a little buggered I plant to swap these capped but style to hopefully never have to deal with replacing them in the near future.


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BTW's @red66toy is one sick dude. This is a guy who has twice bailed me out on parts projects mid project. Total mud made 60 friend and appreciate the second bail out on these 3x stud kits. Thanks Chase!
 
When re-building the 80 FF I used this thread:

How-to: rear axle rebuild

From my experience pick up some extra (or plan to replace them) studs as the threads from the existing ones can get messed up during the re-build or getting the races out.

The fruits of my labor

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The standard part number for the stud nuts is 90170-08204

After the threads getting a little buggered I plant to swap these capped but style to hopefully never have to deal with replacing them in the near future.


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BTW's @red66toy is one sick dude. This is a guy who has twice bailed me out on parts projects mid project. Total mud made 60 friend and appreciate the second bail out on these 3x stud kits. Thanks Chase!
You have helped me out a lot too buddy. Always happy to help when I can. :cheers:
 
Looking forwards to your opinion of that booster/master combo.
 
Tundra Brakes Parts ordered.

I will re-used the extended stainless steel brake lines.

Napa Eclipse Semi loaded calipers 2002 Tundra 13WL casting. Coated calipers, NAPA is available everywhere and pretty easy process to replace on the road.

Akebono Brake Pads (OEM Toyota pad manufacturer) 13WL casting

"Mountain" Tundra Rotors 2002-2006

Front Range Off Road bracket 96-04 Tacoma Version.

Tacoma and 4Runner Brake Mounting Kit

MiniTruck 4Runner hubs turned down to allow the tundra caliper to fit over.

Hope to get the parts in and installed by mid next week.

This combined with the MC/Booster upgrade, and 80 rear discs I should be able to stop much better than actually go with the 2F.



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Flaring brake lines was a lesson in humility and obscene patience.

Limited YouTube research and exuberance resulted in all of the lines getting single flared. That was a bummer.

Re-did the lines and removed the stock proportioning valve mounted under the MC. not as clean as I would like but the number of hours into it I'm done it.

Used a Motive Power Bleeder (Thanks @red66toy)

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO

Was able to pressurize the whole brake system and see where I needed to adjust for leaks. Perfect tool for adjusting more than one line.

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Acorn Axle nuts cover the exposed threads.

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Over due for an update:

Still rocking the 4Runner calipers up front combined with the FZJ80 rear discs stopping feels better than the drums out back. Could be my imagination or the MC/booster are helping with the addition of the discs out back.

Went down to the May Seattle Cruiserheads meeting. Had a strong 60’s crew representing.

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Wife went out of town for work for a couple days so snuck out with the boy and #FitzJ60

N 47.741081 W 121.320804


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Mouth open “say cheese” face.
 
Awesome.
 
I've been eyeing that reverse polarity module. Do you have a headlight relay harness as well or just running the module and stock wiring?

I added the ARB M002 harness before the ground switch hoping that would fix the problem. It didn’t, noticeable difference in the stock sealed beams with that upgrade.

I haven’t tried it without the ARB harness but there shouldn’t be any reason that the ground switch would work with out it.
 
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Drivers side is in.. that took a bit longer than I hoped.

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Photos below were from Tor’s R2.8 62

You chop the OEM brake mounting “ears” off the knuckle or you flip the passenger/driverside which located the ears to the forward location and out of the way for the new bolting/brake bracket.

Knuckle - gasket - spindle - gasket - FROR caliper adapter - hub dust shield

I did the same and it looks like the alignment is good on the caliper/rotors. Still need to get the other side out back together and then bleed the brakes.


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