- Thread starter
- #201
If I don't hear back from him by tomorrow am, I'm going to order to SOR gear. Gotta get this puppy back on the road.
Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD
- Thread starter 120mm
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If I don't hear back from him by tomorrow am, I'm going to order to SOR gear. Gotta get this puppy back on the road.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I drove around for a week or more with a 2x2 propping up the glass inside the door cavity with no internals. Of course my longest trip was maybe 5 miles but it worked fine.
OldBeachBob
SILVER Star
I’d drop it by Jim’s tomorrow if he’ll be home. We have a stay at home order in in Idaho right now but I can probably sneak down and back ok.
I'll be in the shop setting up some new reloading equipment, just give me a call or shoot a text when your headed this way and I'll set up the machine so I can do it while you wait.
- Thread starter
- #205
I love it when a plan comes together!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #207
Well, I turned an aviation grade 1/4" bolt into an ersatz stud and both channels are now tracking correctly.
All that is remaining is that gear, and I should be in business.
I think I am going to start doing some sheetmetal repair, starting with the two biscuit supports and maybe that rotten sill. I originally wanted to patch the fenders, but I now realize those are the lowest priority rust items on the rig. The goal is to get it structurally solid first, then address cabin holes, then go after the more cosmetic rust.
Until I know I am going back to work, I am putting off fuel injection. It runs "ok" down here in Tennessee.
All that is remaining is that gear, and I should be in business.
I think I am going to start doing some sheetmetal repair, starting with the two biscuit supports and maybe that rotten sill. I originally wanted to patch the fenders, but I now realize those are the lowest priority rust items on the rig. The goal is to get it structurally solid first, then address cabin holes, then go after the more cosmetic rust.
Until I know I am going back to work, I am putting off fuel injection. It runs "ok" down here in Tennessee.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Can I send you mine now?
- Thread starter
- #210
Quick question about the regulator gear: What kind of lube would folks recommend. I have some Lubri-Plate(tm), some all purpose lithium grease and some moly.
I'm guessing all three would work ok, but am wondering what the smart folks here have to say about that.
I'm guessing all three would work ok, but am wondering what the smart folks here have to say about that.
I used Super Lube, it doesn't dry out and cake up. Look it up. EDIT...I'm not in the smart group though. 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Carried at your local hardware store.
Any worm gear drive grease would work, you can buy small tubes of garage door worm gear grease.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
KY 
what!
what!
tucker74
Moderator
I didn’t see if you got the starter replaced or not, but make sure you get a later gear-reduction starter off the 60/62. Will be easier to find and has more umph 
- Thread starter
- #216
I didn’t see if you got the starter replaced or not, but make sure you get a later gear-reduction starter off the 60/62. Will be easier to find and has more umph
I got it replaced with a rebuilt original unit. Works fine. Was very affordable. Is just a b*tch to replace.
But that is good to know!
- Thread starter
- #217
And now this happened.
I still need to go out and get some lube, which I'm kind of slow rolling since it looks like we have a few days of rain forecast, but this puppy is ready to go back together.
Thanks to @OldBeachBob and @J Mack for the assist on this one. I look forward to years of trouble free back door operation.
I still need to go out and get some lube, which I'm kind of slow rolling since it looks like we have a few days of rain forecast, but this puppy is ready to go back together.
Thanks to @OldBeachBob and @J Mack for the assist on this one. I look forward to years of trouble free back door operation.
- Thread starter
- #218
No pictures, because I was darned busy yesterday, but I have it all together and working "ok". I have a tight spot in the passenger side channel which needs to be expanded to make it uniform.
There are definitely some tricks that can make this easier.
First, it can only be installed in one order. 1. Regulator 2. channels 3. glass. Trust me, I tried various ways to get everything in there, and I doubt it can be done any other way.
Mine has the safety switch already disabled, so I could operate the window with the tailgate down, which made it much easier. I hooked the regulator up to power first, because it's a lot easier to get out if you disconnect the bolts with the arms in the "down" position, and then once you have it loose and in position to pull out, you carefully put it full "up" and it pops out through the center hole with a touch of maneuvering.
The installation involves a bit of spatial reckoning. One of the roller channels needs to be removed from the bottom window channel/gasket, and you can't install the glass with the channel/gasket already on. Of course, that gasket pinches right where you cannot see or reach. I used a long flat head screwdriver to blindly flail at it until the window felt like it was fully seated along its full length. It helps to know and use your best swear words for this process. (One issue is if you live next door to an elderly, retired Baptist minister, who likes to come out and watch.)
The big/long screws on the drive gear cover keep other stuff together on the side opposite, so be careful when you remove them.
If you run the window regulator all the way up for removal, the drive gear will disengage from the driven teeth. This will cause puzzlement and make you wonder if you broke it/screwed up. All you need to do is to push on the arm until it engages the gear to correct this issue.
Once everything was installed, I ran the window all the way down to be sure the glass cleared the tailgate completely before fully tightening the four bolts securing the regulator to the tailgate. If the glass still sticks up, you move that part of the regulator down and tighten down the bolts.
Now, both my key in the tailgate and dash switch work. Just need to fix that slight binding issue and I'll move on to the next issue.
There are definitely some tricks that can make this easier.
First, it can only be installed in one order. 1. Regulator 2. channels 3. glass. Trust me, I tried various ways to get everything in there, and I doubt it can be done any other way.
Mine has the safety switch already disabled, so I could operate the window with the tailgate down, which made it much easier. I hooked the regulator up to power first, because it's a lot easier to get out if you disconnect the bolts with the arms in the "down" position, and then once you have it loose and in position to pull out, you carefully put it full "up" and it pops out through the center hole with a touch of maneuvering.
The installation involves a bit of spatial reckoning. One of the roller channels needs to be removed from the bottom window channel/gasket, and you can't install the glass with the channel/gasket already on. Of course, that gasket pinches right where you cannot see or reach. I used a long flat head screwdriver to blindly flail at it until the window felt like it was fully seated along its full length. It helps to know and use your best swear words for this process. (One issue is if you live next door to an elderly, retired Baptist minister, who likes to come out and watch.)
The big/long screws on the drive gear cover keep other stuff together on the side opposite, so be careful when you remove them.
If you run the window regulator all the way up for removal, the drive gear will disengage from the driven teeth. This will cause puzzlement and make you wonder if you broke it/screwed up. All you need to do is to push on the arm until it engages the gear to correct this issue.
Once everything was installed, I ran the window all the way down to be sure the glass cleared the tailgate completely before fully tightening the four bolts securing the regulator to the tailgate. If the glass still sticks up, you move that part of the regulator down and tighten down the bolts.
Now, both my key in the tailgate and dash switch work. Just need to fix that slight binding issue and I'll move on to the next issue.
OldBeachBob
SILVER Star
So great when it works again!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
