Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (35 Viewers)

[Spike Strip]

Is the #1 cyl at TDC? If yes, the rotor (dissy) is not correct. Should be between 4 and 3 sparker. Image in FSM.

2F Timing

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok thanks. I marked the diz housing to the rotor tip when I pulled it out so I lined it up exactly how it was then. I'll check it out tmrw when I'm not working. Thanks Spike!

 

[roadstr6]

Fel,

If you didn't set #1 to TDC before you pulled the dizzy, don't worry about Spike's suggestion. There are many ways to skin a cat. As long as you didn't hit the key or move the vehicle in gear, just set the dizzy and rotor EXACTLY like you found it and move on. The main thing is to get the dizzy shaft positively connected with the oil pump and get the rotor where it was when you pulled it. The dizzy shaft has helical gears, so as it drops down, the rotor will turn a bit. If you start the process with the rotor where you want it to end up, you'll miss it by a tooth or two. Back the rotor up a smidge and drop in the diz and it will all line up. You'll get it. Just take your time.

Dave

 

[60Works]

Fel,

If you didn't set #1 to TDC before you pulled the dizzy, don't worry about Spike's suggestion. There are many ways to skin a cat. As long as you didn't hit the key or move the vehicle in gear, just set the dizzy and rotor EXACTLY like you found it and move on. The main thing is to get the dizzy shaft positively connected with the oil pump and get the rotor where it was when you pulled it. The dizzy shaft has helical gears, so as it drops down, the rotor will turn a bit. If you start the process with the rotor where you want it to end up, you'll miss it by a tooth or two. Back the rotor up a smidge and drop in the diz and it will all line up. You'll get it. Just take your time.

Dave

All very good advice.

This part stands out as worth repeating though:

"The main thing is to get the dizzy shaft positively connected with the oil pump... "

When it starts make sure to check that the oil pressure comes up within a few seconds, like 5-7. The 2F will run without the dizzy fully engaged and in the excitement of the truck finally running again it can be easily forgotten. Many a good engine has been killed by this (and by mechanics with enough experience to know better).

Good luck!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fel,

If you didn't set #1 to TDC before you pulled the dizzy, don't worry about Spike's suggestion. There are many ways to skin a cat. As long as you didn't hit the key or move the vehicle in gear, just set the dizzy and rotor EXACTLY like you found it and move on. The main thing is to get the dizzy shaft positively connected with the oil pump and get the rotor where it was when you pulled it. The dizzy shaft has helical gears, so as it drops down, the rotor will turn a bit. If you start the process with the rotor where you want it to end up, you'll miss it by a tooth or two. Back the rotor up a smidge and drop in the diz and it will all line up. You'll get it. Just take your time.

Dave

And that is exactly what I did... even sent you a pix as proof of the first when I sat it and it was off a smidge then I pulled it and sat it again. The pix above is proof of it being seated the second time.
Thanks for speaking up Dave. I knew in my gut that but 'course I had to second guess myself a bit when Spike spoke up. Even called my friend in ME to affirm it out loud.

 

[roadstr6]

I got your text. I didn't want you to undo your good work by second guessing yourself. Spike's advice is sound (as usual) but as I said, there are often many ways to accomplish the same task. You are on track. Keep it going!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All very good advice.

This part stands out as worth repeating though:

"The main thing is to get the dizzy shaft positively connected with the oil pump... "

When it starts make sure to check that the oil pressure comes up within a few seconds, like 5-7. The 2F will run without the dizzy fully engaged and in the excitement of the truck finally running again it can be easily forgotten. Many a good engine has been killed by this (and by mechanics with enough experience to know better).

Good luck!

Totally understood Galen, thanks! And yes, I was using a bright pen light to see the oil pump slot so as to be sure the diz shaft was lining up right as well. Too many times a third hand and another set of eyes would be so appreciated. I knew when the diz was fully seated because the housing would finally sit flush to the mount on the block.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Boy is that blue nice huh?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok so definetly had to file out the exhaust horn end flange holes. Love the file and how easy that is!
But was able to see the depth was different just on the intake sides of the holes so cut a washer and filed that down as well to fit inplace.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Black and Tan makes the filing less tedious!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Black and Tan makes the filing less tedious!

That's for sure!

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Thanks Ryan....

Yes it is. I'm traveling this weekend and been reading your thread. I'm still laughing about your comment on throat kicking Ryan through the phone. Hopefully my next flight has wifi and I can get to the last page

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ha! Don't let that comment fool you, Ryan has been a great asset since we've started talking.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Ha! Don't let that comment fool you, Ryan has been a great asset since we've started talking.

It certainly did not fool me. I know u were joking. Ryan is a huge asset to many of us. Did not have wifi on the last leg. Still on page 10 but looking forward to finishing your thread.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Oh holy s*** the torture of that last bolt holding the exhaust horn near the firewall. I seriously don't know how you men do it w/ hands far bigger than mine?!
I fought w/ just getting the bolt to bite till I finally got smart and used a flathead to separate the horn a smidge from the manifold. Then to get it twisted in I got wise and used an old tool w/ a new tool.
She's on now.
And who ever posted the pix of the tire step stool, thank god. I use it all the time now. Love it! Well worth the $50 or so it cost.

 

[mwebfj60]

Good call on wearing gloves..otherwise your hands would probably be that color...oh wait, that is your hand! Great work!

 

[Spike Strip]

You might want to replace that original hose (you can get a generic gates hose with a 90* bend) that goes to the pipe on the firewall. It's a real PITA when everything is installed.

Nice work on the manifolds.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You might want to replace that original hose (you can get a generic gates hose with a 90* bend) that goes to the pipe on the firewall. It's a real PITA when everything is installed.

Nice work on the manifolds.

Thank you! This one?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You might want to replace that original hose (you can get a generic gates hose with a 90* bend) that goes to the pipe on the firewall. It's a real PITA when everything is installed.

Nice work on the manifolds.

Gloves, smoves. I hate wearing gloves, they just get in my way.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What's the story w/ putting these back on? Anything special on the threads?