Hey felicity.. @stainless 40/45 is parting out a 60 and might have the hardlines you need for your power steering. He's been easy to deal with and has put up with all my need, wait don't' needs via 50 messages. Give him a try.
Build Work In Progress aka: Badass
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
FWIW, I used the Fel-Pro one shown, but Toyota has updated the part to 17172- 61041
Also, you may want to read this thread starting around post #35 or so....
What's a Parts Guy to Do??
Also, you may want to read this thread starting around post #35 or so....
What's a Parts Guy to Do??
- Thread starter
- #323
You think I should be worried? RTV or copper?
- Thread starter
- #324
Gotcha. Thank you. Bummer I can't see post numbers via my mobile app. I'll check it out later. At least I got the gasket for free.
- Thread starter
- #325
Cool thanks Ryan.
- Thread starter
- #326
Other thing to, this was a 'new' purchase via Cruiseroutfitters that @Breitz6989 (right Brad?) had bought when he did his. I'll check that thread but if Toyota updated the parts and the numbers why would Cruiserputfitters be selling the 'old' one?
Not at all, didn't mean to open a can of worms. Definitely no RTV or sealant, it would just burn off eventually.
The Fel Pro works fine. I actually like it better than the old Toyota one. Don't worry, Fel. Keep moving forward.
- Thread starter
- #329
Thank you Dave.
- Thread starter
- #330
@hj 60, just looking back at this... how is that scale measuring anything with it held vertical? I don't get how a bolt that is horizontally sticking outward can provide a "weight" to a scale that is opposite it? Can you explain it in layman terms? And the diagram, holey fxxx nut, is there seriously that many layers? from the 1-5? Great diagram btw even tho its a tad intimidating as hell. Thank you again.I use the digital suitcase scale (if you want you can put fish in the suitcase)
More pictures and torque settings in link below, I read and watched videos a lot before doing the front, and did it in steps because it is so funny to take it apart: new rotors are waiting.
Must have brass drift, 3 kilo hammer (at least not a small weight hammer) and socket 54 and c-clip spreading tool to be fast.
Having spare nut for cone washer slamming saves the thread.
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Birf-propeller-shaft-diff-yoke-flange-spider-snap
you need all gaskets:
A picture is worth a thousand words but I'm a bit under the gun here so I'll try and explain. So were trying to measure torque or turning force just like you do with a torque wrench. But for a free spinning hub the torque is very small compared to what you torque a lug nut to for example. So HJ60 utilized a work around for measuring small torque values.
Torque is called out in Newton-Meters or Foot-Pounds or Inch-Pounds. A torque wrench does the math for us but in this method you have to measure and do the multiplication. Metric or Imperial pick your poison. In the picture he would have measured from the centerline of the axle to the point where he has his fish scale attached. For talking purposes say it's 3 inches. (I can't tell - did he wrap string around the round part of the hub a few times and pull on that - that would be an excellent method.) Then he would read his fish scale as he slowly rotates the hub by pulling on the scale. Say he reads 1.5 lbs of force on the gage (I'm not going back to his picture to see what he is reading - this is hypothetical.) Then you just multiply the distance (3 inches) by the force (1.5 lbs) and get 4.5 Inch-Pounds.
I would think the FSM gives the torque in inch-lbs so measure in inches and multiply by the pounds force read on your fish scale. The method of setting pre-load on your trunnion bearings is the same but there I think they specify a little stick of steel you bolt on that is say 6 inches long but it's the same thing. I picked up an electronic fish scale on Amazon that is popular for this task (has a peak memory function I think) for around $10.
Hope that's not too confusing.
Went back and looked - he just hooked a nylon loop to a wheel stud. I think I would tape a length of string to the diameter of the hub and then wrap a few turns and pull on that for a more accurate reading. This is for setting wheel bearing pre-load I believe BTW.
- Thread starter
- #333
Thanks that helps. I appreciate the explanation Eric. Makes a lot more sense now.
When you have the scale hooked to a wheel stud, you need to pull at the same angle the wheel stud is going to travel at when it moves. Since it travels in a circle, that angle will change as you pull, just keep your pulling hand in the same relative location. You are just measuring the force needed to break "friction torque" so you don't need to move it very far.
The FSM specs are set off of the wheel stud, if you measure from a point farther from center say the edge of the rotor, the value would be less...like a lever. If you measure closer to center...like off a hub stud, the value would be higher.
I've changed hand fulls of wheel bearings. I just tighten them until the hub spins freely with a slight bit of drag.
- Thread starter
- #337
I put in my vaca requests recently. It always gives me great pleasure to do truck maintenance on a vaca day. Truck fun while getting paid w/ a beer by my side.
- Thread starter
- #338
Been working a bunch and weather only cleared today after days of rain so I've done squat on the truck. I did get a sweet t'shirt in the mail today... I wasn't at the meet but I was in spirit! My favorite colors too!
- Thread starter
- #339
Link for when I did a cold valve adjustment w/ video sans valve cover.
"Cold" Valve Adjustment
"Cold" Valve Adjustment
- Thread starter
- #340
Got the side of the block cleaned up for the gasket and cover.
Then reinstalled the diz which is in no way super simple. Glad I added marks to the housing and have a high powered flashlight to see down inside. Lining up the diz shaft w/ the oil pump slot and making sure the rotor is pointing the right way is most def a feat in patience.
Then reinstalled the diz which is in no way super simple. Glad I added marks to the housing and have a high powered flashlight to see down inside. Lining up the diz shaft w/ the oil pump slot and making sure the rotor is pointing the right way is most def a feat in patience.