Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (5 Viewers)

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That looks like rust and the machinist won't put his tools to it that way I don't think. So either you or he will have to clean it. If you have Harbor Freight this is a good $3 investment:

Combination Sharpening Stone

If you hear a machinist talking about "stoning" something they are talking about running a stone like this over it to take the burrs off. I wouldn't hesitate to take a cheap stone like this with some kerosene and knock that rust off. Obviously you don't want to damage the surface but scratches don't hurt as it's getting machined anyway.
Ah I do have two of those. (I have an old carbon steel knife I use for killing my birds when it comes necessary). That will be easy. Thanks for the guidance. :)
And at @mwebfj60, I might be a keeper but I've run twice. So far none has managed to keep me long... aside from my 60's.
 
How clean is clean @Prairie Swamp ?

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If you're going to have the assembly surfaced, then it will clean up when they do it. If not, you need to get all that old gasket material off the mating surfaces around the intake openings. I prefer using fresh, single-edge razor or a very light fiber wheel on a die grinder.

The process for surfacing is like putting the whole assembly face-down on a very large belt sander.

Q: Do you get Free-Range chicken that tastes like 90w ? :rolleyes:
 
Welp she's out of my hands. Wed is pickup day.

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If you're going to have the assembly surfaced, then it will clean up when they do it. If not, you need to get all that old gasket material off the mating surfaces around the intake openings. I prefer using fresh, single-edge razor or a very light fiber wheel on a die grinder.

The process for surfacing is like putting the whole assembly face-down on a very large belt sander.

Q: Do you get Free-Range chicken that tastes like 90w ? :rolleyes:
Call me a poor excuse for a chicken farmer. I've killed mean roosters and sick or injured hens. I've not plucked alone cuz it's too messy indoors so only skinned for thighs, legs and breasts but I failed to stew so all were tough (they are free range) plus I'm a tad squeamish eating my own birds. Killing birds never gets easier; I seriously don't like doing it but I hate seeing anything suffer.
 
Such a great thread glad to see someone else from CT with one of these. I've had 83 60 for 8 years. My daughter was so little when I got my rig now she's in high school and might learn how to drive it . Who knew ?
Right of passage on mine was rebuilding the front axle hubs and steering knuckles. I studied the diagrams for months before tackling it . Best of luck with your cool rig .
 
Such a great thread glad to see someone else from CT with one of these. I've had 83 60 for 8 years. My daughter was so little when I got my rig now she's in high school and might learn how to drive it . Who knew ?
Right of passage on mine was rebuilding the front axle hubs and steering knuckles. I studied the diagrams for months before tackling it . Best of luck with your cool rig .
Knuckle rebuild and caliper rebuild kit and new rotors, ect waiting to be done in the spring. If your in CT I might call on you!
 
This video is awesome, it's an involved job but doable and not expensive really just time consuming and tedious, best to just do everything all at once while it's apart . I reused my wheel bearings they were ok just repacked them with grease and they've been fine . I'd be glad to help if I can just let me know .
 
Pretty sure I have seen that one but will watch again. And I've been watching a few threads folks have going on it but every time I see some mention measuring preload I feel nervous. Do I need a scale for that?
And I need to get a brake bleeder as I have new lines I bought for the job as well. Funny how anything to do with fluids and bleeding throws me tho. In my old truck had a friend help me do the master for the clutch and it was easy enough then after the fact I had to do its slave a few months later. And I did the slave in this truck back in June with zero issues with bubbles ect. (Did it while my kid napped no less). But I still get antsy.
I appreciate the offer!
 
So I picked up a stock power steering pump that was functioning fine when it was pulled. I bought it because my pump is from a Volvo and its reservoir is setup super ugly and hangs off my air horn so I cant get a cold air duct in place as a result. It works and I have no issues with it leaking, its literally just an eye soar and an annoyance.
My question is before I pull it I am truing to figure out the hardline from the pump to the top of the gear box. The one on the Volvo pump comes off the side near the tstat housing and so has a funky C bend in it. I am unsure if I can simply cut it and use a new tapered washer (sorry blanking on the name, I am thinking of plumbing lines I have installed). I have thumbed through the FSM to see if there is a pix of the line and have yet to find one to get an idea of how exactly it should be lined and angled. If anyone has one I'd be grateful for a pix.
Below is the "new"stock pump held over the fugly Volvo one (the section of brass goes to the res) and the hardline in question covered in insulation.

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Pretty sure I have seen that one but will watch again. And I've been watching a few threads folks have going on it but every time I see some mention measuring preload I feel nervous. Do I need a scale for that?
And I need to get a brake bleeder as I have new lines I bought for the job as well. Funny how anything to do with fluids and bleeding throws me tho. In my old truck had a friend help me do the master for the clutch and it was easy enough then after the fact I had to do its slave a few months later. And I did the slave in this truck back in June with zero issues with bubbles ect. (Did it while my kid napped no less). But I still get antsy.
I appreciate the offer!
Fish scale works great.
 
Fish scale works great.
Yep, @Felnik just said that too via pm to me. Sports shop in Columbia most likely has them. (I chuckled to him... my son was weighed on one here when he was born. Yep, home birther here).
 
I use the digital suitcase scale (if you want you can put fish in the suitcase)
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More pictures and torque settings in link below, I read and watched videos a lot before doing the front, and did it in steps because it is so funny to take it apart: new rotors are waiting.
Must have brass drift, 3 kilo hammer (at least not a small weight hammer) and socket 54 and c-clip spreading tool to be fast.
Having spare nut for cone washer slamming saves the thread.
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Birf-propeller-shaft-diff-yoke-flange-spider-snap

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you need all gaskets:
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I have the terrain tamers rebuild kit from Georg and the 54 socket as well. I've got a 2lb sledge as well a big 5lb'r too and have the spreader but def need a brass drift. Thanks for the tool check list!
 
A thing of beauty. Yoda even approves!

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Looks great.

If you have a round file or dremel, slightly 'even out' the holes where the Intake and the Exh meet and do not line up. Will ease installation so you don't get hung up on any studs, or have difficulty inserting bolts.

Where'd the snow go? (what's snow ? :cautious:)
 
Looks great.

If you have a round file or dremel, slightly 'even out' the holes where the Intake and the Exh meet and do not line up. Will ease installation so you don't get hung up on any studs, or have difficulty inserting bolts.

Where'd the snow go? (what's snow ? :cautious:)
Ah I see what you mean. I can do that w/ my dremel, thanks for pointing it out. Guy said it was way off and he was at it for a while. Flange bolt facings appear equal. I asked them to spot face them but said they didn't need to. I laid it down and eyeballed them, hoping they are right, I'd rather not have to chop washers.

Yeah snow is pretty much gone but we're due for more tmrw and Sat, tho not much thankfully!
Hoping to get some peas in the ground this afternoon w/ the kiddo.
 

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