GA Architect
SILVER Star
Yes, 9" bead to bead. I plan on going with either a 32x11.50 or 33x12.50 tires, and a 5.5" wheel width just wasn't what I wanted. It was pure personal preference on my part.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (23 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Stock wheels are too narrow to run anything more than a 10.5" tire safely. There's been lots of back and forth what is "safe" to run. I've seen people mount 36x12.5 on stock rims, but you run into wear issues with the tires because its causes them to round out. I'm probably going 8-8.5".
Ahh, thanks for the clarification guys.
Well, while I dislike drilling holes in the body, '44' came with 4 Jerry Can (JC) mount holes in the rear-passenger fender, so I added 4 new holes to the rear-driver side fender and mounted two red 20L Scepter Gas Cans (from Petr (VidereStudios), here on MUD).
While considering this mod, I realized my rear-passenger fender was not original... it is not the same stiff steel as the rear-driver's side fender. My guess is this fender was replaced with a newer, slightly thinner gauge steel fender.
To make these JC mounts more stable (and less likely to result in damage to my fenders), I fabbed 3/4" angle (1/8" thick) into a square-Z (sZ) bracket (one for each side) and welded gussets to the two 90 degree angles on each.
I then mounted the two front JC mount bolts (each fender) thru the fender and thru the sZ bracket (6" leg) and bolted the 3" leg of each sZ bracket to the existent bolt holes in the frame (not sure why these frame holes were present, but the exhaust hanger (driver's side) was mounted to two of them (maybe they were there on the passenger side for the same reason?)).
I cut 3"x4" (1/4") plate steel "washers" and mounted the back two holes of each JC mount thru the fender and thru these 'washers'. I used yellow grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts.
At this point, the locking straps made the whole install seem perfectly stable, but I really didn't like nothing securing the JCs at the top... so, (again, the passenger side had 4 painted screws about where I would have secured the top of the JC) I drilled two 1/4" holes (using one of the existent screw holes) for stainless u-bolts on each side - these bolts come thru the double seam of the bottom rail of the top of '44', then thru the u-bolt plate (as washers). I secured the u-bolts with nylock nuts.
I mounted the JCs in the JC mounts and cut the red strap off of a two ratchet strap ratchets, cut two 20" lengths of strap and tied each 20" length to a ratchet - then ran the strap thru the scepter handles, thru the u-bolt (each side) and looped back over the handles to ratchet the strap and secure the top of each JC to the body of my 40.
I doubt the cans would move at all, even if I rolled '44'.
Since the JCs cover my rear marker lights, I stuck a red adhesive reflector to the JC on each side.
Question: Does anyone know if there is a law in their state that a vehicle have working marker lights visible on the side of their rear fenders? If so, I will add marker lights to the JC mounts.
Here are a couple of pictures (can't really get a good pic of the full rear and JCs right now):
I'm still looking for an auxiliary tank that I can mount under the back - but haven't had time or money to get serious thus far - this will give me 40 liters of breathing room in the meantime.
I'm trying to figure out where I might hang a 20L water can, but I suspect it will continue to ride inside the back.
Edit: Turns out I did have one picture of the back/JCs - I know I have a bit of a lean - had it already and will address it at some point.
While considering this mod, I realized my rear-passenger fender was not original... it is not the same stiff steel as the rear-driver's side fender. My guess is this fender was replaced with a newer, slightly thinner gauge steel fender.
To make these JC mounts more stable (and less likely to result in damage to my fenders), I fabbed 3/4" angle (1/8" thick) into a square-Z (sZ) bracket (one for each side) and welded gussets to the two 90 degree angles on each.
I then mounted the two front JC mount bolts (each fender) thru the fender and thru the sZ bracket (6" leg) and bolted the 3" leg of each sZ bracket to the existent bolt holes in the frame (not sure why these frame holes were present, but the exhaust hanger (driver's side) was mounted to two of them (maybe they were there on the passenger side for the same reason?)).
I cut 3"x4" (1/4") plate steel "washers" and mounted the back two holes of each JC mount thru the fender and thru these 'washers'. I used yellow grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts.
At this point, the locking straps made the whole install seem perfectly stable, but I really didn't like nothing securing the JCs at the top... so, (again, the passenger side had 4 painted screws about where I would have secured the top of the JC) I drilled two 1/4" holes (using one of the existent screw holes) for stainless u-bolts on each side - these bolts come thru the double seam of the bottom rail of the top of '44', then thru the u-bolt plate (as washers). I secured the u-bolts with nylock nuts.
I mounted the JCs in the JC mounts and cut the red strap off of a two ratchet strap ratchets, cut two 20" lengths of strap and tied each 20" length to a ratchet - then ran the strap thru the scepter handles, thru the u-bolt (each side) and looped back over the handles to ratchet the strap and secure the top of each JC to the body of my 40.
I doubt the cans would move at all, even if I rolled '44'.
Since the JCs cover my rear marker lights, I stuck a red adhesive reflector to the JC on each side.
Question: Does anyone know if there is a law in their state that a vehicle have working marker lights visible on the side of their rear fenders? If so, I will add marker lights to the JC mounts.
Here are a couple of pictures (can't really get a good pic of the full rear and JCs right now):
I'm still looking for an auxiliary tank that I can mount under the back - but haven't had time or money to get serious thus far - this will give me 40 liters of breathing room in the meantime.
I'm trying to figure out where I might hang a 20L water can, but I suspect it will continue to ride inside the back.
Edit: Turns out I did have one picture of the back/JCs - I know I have a bit of a lean - had it already and will address it at some point.
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Mounted my 'new' Con-Ferr rear bench and some new belts - now the whole family fits. Gonna refinish the Con-Ferr when I redo the front seats, which is on the list...
Created and mounted a new locking center console, using the ideas of other MUDders (most recently (to my knowledge) ducktapeguy , in post# 7815, above. I have several different sized ammo cans and I have since, as the pictures show, painted the console to match '44', so I can't recall the caliber for this can. But it measured 11"Lx5.5"Wx10"T.
I used my original center console as the base for this, so that I could retain the 'open' storage it provided and facilitate mounting over the rear heater hoses.
The lock is from a locking hasp, available at many places - I bought mine from Home Depot - couldn't find one at Lowes.
I used my original center console as the base for this, so that I could retain the 'open' storage it provided and facilitate mounting over the rear heater hoses.
The lock is from a locking hasp, available at many places - I bought mine from Home Depot - couldn't find one at Lowes.
Sat in the 40, had a few cold ones while listening to The Steve Miller Band waiting for my Trollhole Carb to arrive.
...Sent from the Swell using sticks and rocks
...Sent from the Swell using sticks and rocks
You must be in the desert. Those wouldn't last long on my truck. They would be ripped off in about 30 seconds of starting up a trail.
But, I did see a tree the other day! 
Changed spring bushings. Hours with jacks, hammer and lot's of verbal persuasion!
In attempt to get rid of my pinging at high speed, I rebuilt and reinstalled the carburetor, reinstalled the dizzy and adjusted valve lash and timing. Now, while I seem to have cured the ping, the vacuum secondary still doesn't open and I can't get the truck over 65 MPH. It just stops accelerating... no drop off, it's as if that's all she's got, though I know there is more.
picked up repaired radiator and media blasted and painted radiator support bracket. Media blasted and painted front bumper brackets and stays. I need to be tightening bolts not loosening them. No wonder I start with one project and end up with five more. I need to tack weld my ratchets clockwise only.
Cheers!
Cheers!
That's exactly why my simple blown head gasket job has been going on since October of last year...lol...can't stop with the "well, since I'm this far..."
Instead of tightening my ratchet, I need to tighten the loose screw between my ears. Since the radiator is out, today I blasted and painted the grill and support bracket rods and flywheel guard. Given the time spent today under the hood, I've decided to do the same with the air cleaner cannister, brackets, horn brackets. Thank goodness the shock mounts are riveted. I am going to paint an arrow on my valve cover pointing toward the front. Proceeding in this direction, there will be less for me to take apart-unless I add a winch.........Hmmm
oh, and I drove the 40 to lunch one day this week 
and looked at the future position of the rear fender flares now that the axle has been moved back . . . it's all about the looks, 'ya know . . .
and looked at the future position of the rear fender flares now that the axle has been moved back . . . it's all about the looks, 'ya know . . .
exactly how far is it from any point in Nevada to the nearest gas station ?
I'm really not sure if you were asking a serious question...
but, I'll answer, nonetheless.Exactly? I've never been to every point in Nevada
But, I can tell you, The Big Empty is big and empty... if you stay on pavement, even FJ40 fuel efficiency will generally give you a chance of reaching the next gas station, with just the factory tank.
If you leave pavement, who knows... as an example, Alamo Road, in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge (DNWR 20 miles northwest of Vegas) runs about 86 miles to a dry lake, where the road is closed - so, about 172 miles roundtrip. IIRC the speed limit on this road is 25mph, but, trust me, it's best driven at about an average of 15-20mph. The signs will tell you that only high clearance vehicles should attempt it and there are no services.
Another road on the refuge, Morman Wells, is much the same as Alamo, but much rougher.
I like to hike and to get to the trailheads, I have to leave Alamo Road and drive, in some cases, 4-6 miles (8-12 roundtrip).
So, the DNWR, alone, tests the boundaries of my 40's fuel efficiency...
... and the DNWR is only a small portion of The Big Empty - so, to return to your question...
... it's exactly as far as the next gas station
HTH
A couple of things today...
First,
First,
A few weeks ago, I bought a NIB SOR Steering Damper from a fellow MUDder, who had bought it a few years back and never used it.
I did a bit of MUD research to find out just how difficult everyone felt removing the old steering damper had been - no surprise, same struggle as TREs, etc. So, I postponed tackling it until I had some more pressing issues resolved.
Today, I set up my torch, got out my 12vdc impact driver and 19mm socket, a 19mm wrench, penetraing oil and BFH and crawled under the front of '44', prepared for the worst.
Sure I was wasting the effort, I started to put the wrench on one of the nuts and noticed it had a 1/4" gap. I put the wrench down and completely unscrewed it by hand. Then I reach over to the other nut and completely unscrewed it by hand as well. Once I had the nuts off, I put a piece of wood over the bolt-end and 'tapped' it with my hand and the bolt flew out and slid under '44' and out the garage door (like it was greased). Once that happend, the other bolt fell out of the center arm and the damper fell on the floor with a 'crash'.
So, while the damper had been installed backwards, at least it wasn't installed backwards correctly...
There is no cotter pin hole in the bolts and there were no lock washers, but at least the nuts weren't torqued either... so, everything was wrong... and this after I thought I had already corrected everything that was wrong with the steering.
Here's the old Monroe that was on it and the new one, side-by-side
Second,I did a bit of MUD research to find out just how difficult everyone felt removing the old steering damper had been - no surprise, same struggle as TREs, etc. So, I postponed tackling it until I had some more pressing issues resolved.
Today, I set up my torch, got out my 12vdc impact driver and 19mm socket, a 19mm wrench, penetraing oil and BFH and crawled under the front of '44', prepared for the worst.
Sure I was wasting the effort, I started to put the wrench on one of the nuts and noticed it had a 1/4" gap. I put the wrench down and completely unscrewed it by hand. Then I reach over to the other nut and completely unscrewed it by hand as well. Once I had the nuts off, I put a piece of wood over the bolt-end and 'tapped' it with my hand and the bolt flew out and slid under '44' and out the garage door (like it was greased). Once that happend, the other bolt fell out of the center arm and the damper fell on the floor with a 'crash'.
So, while the damper had been installed backwards, at least it wasn't installed backwards correctly...
There is no cotter pin hole in the bolts and there were no lock washers, but at least the nuts weren't torqued either... so, everything was wrong... and this after I thought I had already corrected everything that was wrong with the steering.
Here's the old Monroe that was on it and the new one, side-by-side
Building on the ammo can motif, I mentioned while showing my center console earlier in this thread, I converted a 40mm ammo can into a locking toolbox and mounted it on my front bumper.
Plenty of air flow around/above it - temp gauge stays at about 1/3 and thermostat housing remains constant (as before) at 135 degrees
Plenty of air flow around/above it - temp gauge stays at about 1/3 and thermostat housing remains constant (as before) at 135 degrees
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