What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (76 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the post. I'm probably going to run it around, drain it, and then fill it again anyway just seeing how dirty it was. I downloaded a copy of the FSM but I haven't seen that chart yet. This has been a big lesson on rtfm. Wish me luck on getting these freaking retaining wires out of the clutch fork.
Are your yellow metals going to show up on a magnet?
Are you saying that you use that in your transmission too?
Yes
Not to spark the whole debate again, but that bottle clearly says “for use in non-synchronized manual transmissions” = not for use in our trannys. Why even tempt it when other GL-5 bottles are listed as yellow metal safe?
It also says GL-4 on the bottle. What do you suggest?
Differentials: API GL-5
Non-synchronized manual transmissions: API GL-4
Maybe it’s semantics, or just a very grey shade of grey, but considering our transmissions have synchros, that GL-4 doesn’t apply to us.
By no means am I an expert, I just noticed the specific wording on that bottle and think it might not mean what you think it means. Maybe it’s a non-issue. Here’s the data sheet. Specifically calls out a different oil for synchronized manual transmissions.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
FWIW, I put GL5 in my TC and transmission…and I could feel the difference in shifting (not in a good way). I thought my transmission was having an issue…I even started a thread on it. I was having to double clutch while driving, which I never had to do before. I drained it and put in GL4 and there was almost immediate improvement. Weird thing is that no metal came out when I drained the GL5, but the difference was apparent.
jhynesrockmtn
SILVER Star
I am getting closer to being done with my Sniper and Hyperspark install. It has several hundred miles on it now. My latest mini project was installing the charcoal canister kit from Red Line. I had to make some modifications to the bracket they sell that goes on the blower motor due to the dual battery setup. I cut off the bottom and flipped it around to raise the canister. I made hard line out of some aluminum tubing left over from a race car fire suppression setup I did a few years back. The dumbest thing I did was fill up with gas and left the gas cap at the station. I drove away thinking I must have really screwed something up because it smells like gas horribly in the rig now. Derppp!
jhynesrockmtn
SILVER Star
I finished modifying the used Yakima towers I bought. I added an inch using some hard plastic sheet I bought and cut. Some bolts and large cotter pins finished it off.
Didn’t know you are doing the Hyperspark along with this EFI. I have re-discovered a few things about timing settings along with help from @Jdc1 while my truck was out in his shop. When I installed the Hyperspark last summer, I had set up the values from data I had with the setup information…that may have been too high. When I go back out to the truck later, I am going to see where my setting are now. I’ll send them to you to see how yours compare if interested
I never really thought I was way off but, it does appear to be running well with lower numbers. Still, I am very impressed the way it starts now…. Instantly
I never really thought I was way off but, it does appear to be running well with lower numbers. Still, I am very impressed the way it starts now…. Instantly
jhynesrockmtn
SILVER Star
Thanks. I would like to see them. I did this in stages. I bought the hyperspark distributor from @zerotreedelta but installed the Sniper first with my existing distributor. It was ok, but the hyperspark made it so much better. No more stalling when cold. Starts instantly. Idle is stable and consistent. Good power.
I watched @zerotreedelta do his mods and install religiously…. GREAT work… I followed the same routine you did with the Sniper 1st and the Hyperspark about 4 months later. I’ll pass them along…see what the comparisons might be
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Are they trashed?
Happy to answer this. We have a very wide variety of Cruisers, 20, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 150, 200 and 250 Series. Most are either stock survivors (no restoration effort) or fully restored with an emphasis on trying to be as original as possible. Not all of them are perfect and we continue to refine or replace as better samples become available. You can see most of the collection in photographs here:
Land Cruiser Heritage Museum - Vehicle Collection
Click on photos to learn more about each vehicle. 1953 BJT ToyotaJeep 1958 FJ25 ToyotaLand Cruiser 1960 FJ25 ToyotaLand Cruiser On loan courtesy of Mike Bradshaw 1960 FJ28 ToyotaLand Cruiser 1960 FJ28 ToyotaLand Cruiser 1960 FJ28L ToyotaLand Cruiser 1960 FJ28LV ToyotaLand Cruiser 1962 FJ40...
Planning to dabble with my timing/fueling maps a bit more, but I've got this on deck for the weekend first. Been chasing a finicky exhaust manifold gasket, so since I'll have it pulled apart anyway, I'm going to just swap out the manifold. The '76 doesn't have the extra ears on the ends for the last bolts, and those are the areas that are having issues on mine when cold, but tend to clear up once hot. Picky picky...
Going to keep the manifold and downpipe in the parts pile too, never know.
