What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Never replaced a clutch or removed a tranny before. Hopefully this thick board works well for my floor jack to tranny jack mod. Wish me some common sense if not luck. Going to use angle steel and some cardboard to hold it in place and strap it down. I will refer to the FSM later if nobody answers but doesn't this transfer case take the same fluid that goes into the front diff? I got three liters of this GL-5 SAE 80w-90 gear oil. This fluid that's in there is yellow and I'm assuming it's the same stuff that is used in the front and rear diff.
Got the oil pressure gauge working. Just had to reconnect the wire from the pressure sensor to one of the threaded terminals on the rear of the gauge. Don't know why the PO had installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge & temp gauge into the dash at one point. All the original gauges work.
Maybe because the original gauges are notoriously inaccurate and slow to respond?
& Probably because it has numbers on it.
I like numbers on a gauge.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
The answer was 7/8” Gates hose. Fit nice and snug. 1” was too big for comfort and 3/4” mushroomed out too much. Will use a 7/8” to 5/8” barb to reduce.
Also, got the block drain out. Nothing came out and I’d seen the horror stories…got a pick and it was just sludge…then poured out.
@ToyotaMatt Is there a torque spec on the drain you sell? I torqued it until ‘good and tight’, put water in the block and no leaks.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Yep, same stuff all around. I am not clear on what the board is for. You can usually wrap a strap or two around the trans/transfer combo on the jack and roll them off together. A smooth clean floor and rolling wheels on the jack are your best friends.
I have mostly pulled the engine tranny and transfer as a unit. I have always put them back in that way. Once I dropped the T/T but I wasn't boy enough to put them back in. Next day pulled the engine, mated everything up - installation complete in like 3 hrs by my self. Label all the wires on both sides of the connections. Bag/label all the bolts/nut/washers in cheap ziploc sandwich bags. Take the starter off - its gives you a little more wiggle room.
I now have a very nice A frame on wheels, there is a truck on the I beam for the chainfalls. I have the harbor china load leveler and the transmission jack too. My technique was to lift some push LC back some, rinse repeat. That was before I had the A frame.
I now have a very nice A frame on wheels, there is a truck on the I beam for the chainfalls. I have the harbor china load leveler and the transmission jack too. My technique was to lift some push LC back some, rinse repeat. That was before I had the A frame.
I'm going with your idea. Couldn't get it off completely and think I need one of those pullers. Looks like the bell housing bolts are on the sides with the motor mounts and two at the top.
We decided not to make our build a frame off after all. That means that we can concentrate on getting it on the road instead of making it pretty. That's huge progress in my book. It will still get paint (rattle can) and I'll work on the body a little at a time while I'm driving it.
@RedOx the internet is full of debates about using GL-5 in the transmission/transfer case. The short version is the claim that GL-5 is not safe for "Yellow Metals" which would apply to synchros in the transmission apparently. Time marches on and a lot of GL-5s claim to be "Yellow Metal Safe" now, but there are also several options still available for GL-4 gear oil. I have personally used AmsOil and RedLine in mine, and they.... IDK work, are fine? How can you quantify if your transmission gear oil is working well?? LOL I don't seem to have synchro problems, or any problems that I know of, so there is that. Anyway, I thought it worth mentioning in case you wanted to dive into that can of worms. On a side note, I do put GL-5 in the differentials, it's cheaper and no yellow metals to worry about. Hope that helps!
*Edit* Here is a discussion on our own forum about it: Is GL5 gear oil really bad for our transmissions? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-gl5-gear-oil-really-bad-for-our-transmissions.623367/
*Edit* Here is a discussion on our own forum about it: Is GL5 gear oil really bad for our transmissions? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-gl5-gear-oil-really-bad-for-our-transmissions.623367/
Last edited:
Back in the late 80's I did all the boxes with Kendall 85-140. When it was 35 below zero shifting into 1st would put a bow in the lever. After moving 10' or so the oil would shear up and shift fine. A few weeks ago I put in Valvoline Synchromesh Manual Transmission fluid in the tranny and transfer. I suspect the seal between the units is out - so they will end up the same oil with the very nice bypass unit I got from @shipmag. I'll be looking at the pumpkin's soon. First I need to install the new china Delco dizzy and see if I can get the Rochester working better or I'll be getting Amorons china one.
I can add the the MT-90 made an immediate difference to my Transmission and transfer case.. the feel of the stick is more “direct” if that means something…it’s hard to explain but the movement is very positive and the gear seem quieter. Time will tell
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
You have to pull the flywheel to access all the bell housing bolts.
Drive a 1,000 mile after. Drain the oils and check it with a magnet? I would think if it isn't lubed right you'll find some metal? But it could be residual from the previous oil? They question I would be asking if the rubber seals are comparable with that oil? To me those are question for the tech department at the company that made the oil? I would think they might know more about their product? But don't talk to the sales department as their job is to sell not solve problems?
Hope this helps. This is the Toyota FSM, and this is what I have been using. In fact, I topped off my leaky transfer case this afternoon.
Thanks for the post. I'm probably going to run it around, drain it, and then fill it again anyway just seeing how dirty it was. I downloaded a copy of the FSM but I haven't seen that chart yet. This has been a big lesson on rtfm. Wish me luck on getting these freaking retaining wires out of the clutch fork.