What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (64 Viewers)

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Does MUD have a newbie dunce award? If so, I nominate me. I couldn't wait to find out if my loaned out (or possibly lost) timing light was around, so I ordered a new one on Amazon. Of course they delivered it at 7am. Did you know they have ones with digital screens with built in Tachs? Even if my old one is found, it will never get used again. Sorry old friend, but the new guy has better tricks. I couldn't' wait. I started it, put it outside to warm up and then unboxed the newbie. Pulled it back in where I can work and went to find the 10mm that loosens the distributor. Hmmmm, what's this? One of the plug wires is disconnected at the distributor. How long has than been like that? Probably from when I pulled the carb. Hook it back up and shut it down. It dieseled like crazy. Loosen the distributor and checked timing. BB nowhere in sight. Adjusted a bit. Tightened, check again, looks good. Ran like a champ on the way to work. Shut down ok. If you need more evidence of my idiocracy, I can provide it as part of the nomination process. :bang::bang::bang:
I guess you missed my earlier post where I ran out of gas. Twice. Almost made it 3x this morning on the way to work.
 
Does MUD have a newbie dunce award? If so, I nominate me. I couldn't wait to find out if my loaned out (or possibly lost) timing light was around, so I ordered a new one on Amazon. Of course they delivered it at 7am. Did you know they have ones with digital screens with built in Tachs? Even if my old one is found, it will never get used again. Sorry old friend, but the new guy has better tricks. I couldn't' wait. I started it, put it outside to warm up and then unboxed the newbie. Pulled it back in where I can work and went to find the 10mm that loosens the distributor. Hmmmm, what's this? One of the plug wires is disconnected at the distributor. How long has than been like that? Probably from when I pulled the carb. Hook it back up and shut it down. It dieseled like crazy. Loosen the distributor and checked timing. BB nowhere in sight. Adjusted a bit. Tightened, check again, looks good. Ran like a champ on the way to work. Shut down ok. If you need more evidence of my idiocracy, I can provide it as part of the nomination process. :bang::bang::bang:

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There's an old saying that goes something like this... "90% of carburetion problems are actually ignition problems." I find this to be true. Of course having gas in the tank helps too. ;)
 
Does MUD have a newbie dunce award? If so, I nominate me. I couldn't wait to find out if my loaned out (or possibly lost) timing light was around, so I ordered a new one on Amazon. Of course they delivered it at 7am. Did you know they have ones with digital screens with built in Tachs? Even if my old one is found, it will never get used again. Sorry old friend, but the new guy has better tricks. I couldn't' wait. I started it, put it outside to warm up and then unboxed the newbie. Pulled it back in where I can work and went to find the 10mm that loosens the distributor. Hmmmm, what's this? One of the plug wires is disconnected at the distributor. How long has than been like that? Probably from when I pulled the carb. Hook it back up and shut it down. It dieseled like crazy. Loosen the distributor and checked timing. BB nowhere in sight. Adjusted a bit. Tightened, check again, looks good. Ran like a champ on the way to work. Shut down ok. If you need more evidence of my idiocracy, I can provide it as part of the nomination process. :bang::bang::bang:

View attachment 3775884
Hitch timing light did you go with?
 
There's an old saying that goes something like this... "90% of carburetion problems are actually ignition problems." I find this to be true. Of course having gas in the tank helps too. ;)
:rofl::rofl: Yup. I'm glad I took the carb apart, if nothing else it had some loose screws/bolts and forced me to read up on how to tune it. I'm now thinking I was not out of fuel, but we will see. I don't know the capacity of the aux tank and the filler hose between the outside and tank is so kinked the way it was installed, you almost can't add gas to it. The PO warned me about it. I put 5 gallons in, spilled about a cup on the ground and gave up after several minutes. I need to tackle this and the senders being wired backwards next.
 
Hitch timing light did you go with?
Innova 3568

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Thanks. That is the one I had in my Amazon cart. :)
I have the Innova 5568. Read up on the difference between the 3568 and the 5568. If you have points, you'll need the 5568 to set the dwell angle. It appears that the 3568 does not have that feature. If you go with a Pertonix module/pickup, or you have an electronic ignition you won't need the dwell hook up.
 
These single DIN units came with either a cassette or single CD player. They also came with an internal amplifier or premium that uses an external amplifier. I like the remote CD changer with a cartridge but after the 1978 model not as easy to find a place to mount one. Those the single DIN changer in the glove box would be a good option. Interesting that the external CD players either single CD or six CD will work with either type in the main unit. The CD player was either a single CD or six CD that could be bolted together with the main unit to make a double DIN or use a remote six CD changer. The external CDs players with also work with the early 2000s double DIN audio with either a single or six CD changer built in. I haven't found any $10 units lately but I have collected a bunch of 1998-2002 Toyota audio units over the years. Some came with bracket the single DIN units slide into. Thinking might be possible mount to the dash of an FJ40. External amplifier would possibly to upgrade the amplifier from these units to more modern amplifiers. Toyota's amplifier around the turn of the century were pretty lame.

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Have you run that "head unit" with the built in amp and the external amp to compare? Any other stickers on the separate amplifier that indicate the RMS output power? I love the functionality of my head unit, but a little more juice would be good, if for no other reason that to have a little more headroom before the head unit output starts distorting.

Yes I could get an aftermarket amplifier ... but why not use this small little Toyota unit.

FYI the $10 price I mentioned was at the pick and pull yard. They look at early 2000s stock radios as junk and price them accordingly.
 
I have the Innova 5568. Read up on the difference between the 3568 and the 5568. If you have points, you'll need the 5568 to set the dwell angle. It appears that the 3568 does not have that feature. If you go with a Pertonix module/pickup, or you have an electronic ignition you won't need the dwell hook up.
Thanks. Someone commented on the pic I posted last night of my distributor and said it did not have points, but good info to know.
 
The Distributor is OEM, but the cap is aftermarket? Says, made in W. Germany. Mine came with a similar cap. They get some rust from the coil grenerating ozone. At some point, it might be worth cleaning-up / inspecting the centrifugal advance. The rust dust creates issues with the governor springs, pins, and plastic bushings.

Some folks running electronic ignitions have higher voltage coils, which allows you to run greater spark plug gap.
 
The Distributor is OEM, but the cap is aftermarket? Says, made in W. Germany. Mine came with a similar cap. They get some rust from the coil grenerating ozone. At some point, it might be worth cleaning-up / inspecting the centrifugal advance. The rust dust creates issues with the governor springs, pins, and plastic bushings.

Some folks running electronic ignitions have higher voltage coils, which allows you to run greater spark plug gap.
I was going to take some fine sand paper and clean the metal tab on the top. I’m hesitant to dig too far into as I’ve never done it before.

The cap…the orange color drives me crazy. The plug wires have orange ends. Also annoying. First world problems. Is there another cap I can just replace it with?
 
Haha, yeah I guess I forgot that part..... It works great. Stank be gone.

Perfect name for your new product line: "Stank-B-Gone".
 
I was going to take some fine sand paper and clean the metal tab on the top. I’m hesitant to dig too far into as I’ve never done it before.

The cap…the orange color drives me crazy. The plug wires have orange ends. Also annoying. First world problems. Is there another cap I can just replace it with?
Both the cap & rotor are still available thru Toyota Toyota 19102-41010 Rotor Sub-Assy, Distributor Toyota 19101-41010 Cap Sub-Assy, Distributor
 
I was going to take some fine sand paper and clean the metal tab on the top. I’m hesitant to dig too far into as I’ve never done it before.

The cap…the orange color drives me crazy. The plug wires have orange ends. Also annoying. First world problems. Is there another cap I can just replace it with?
I shelved my original distributor, after I restored it. My '75 2F came with an original orange distributor cap, and a funky original orange PCV hose (valve to intake)... I installed a new OEM black cap distributor, but, the one I restored received an orange cap. 4Cruisers put me on track with a correct orange cap, an OEM part. His contribution to the 40/55 page for distributor-tech has been a serious asset to Mud, probably the 60/62-Forum as well.

I actually like the safety colors on the high voltage side of the coil, distributor, and plug wires. Just today, I noticed that the next to last chapter in the Haynes Manual is titled, "Safety First." I probably read it for the first time today, oops. In it, the author reminds us that the high voltage ignition circuit is serious business, and in certain conditions, the shock could prove fatal.

Sand paper might be okay, but, green Scotchbrite, or steel wool is what I'd initially use on the distributor cap and rotor.
 

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