What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (43 Viewers)

[El Jefe]

I picked up two headlight kits yesterday - $31.69. The pricing doesn't make sense to me, but I'm not complaining too much either. One kit will go on the truck, and one is a spare. I'll install the lights after I finish the TRE's this week. I'll send the 40 to Red Line in the next week or two to have them do the work I can't: revive the engine, upgrade the brake system for the FJ-55 axles, etc. It's going to be strange not having the 40 in the garage for a few weeks!

 

[flee]

@knuckle47 I didn't try to set up the gears. While it looks doable, it also looked like something that I could easily screw up. For me any way, as @Skreddy said, I just let @cruisermatt work his magic since he is all set up for that. Removing and installing the 3rd member is pretty straightforward but boy are they heavy and unwieldy. I think that it would be far easier with a lift and a proper transmission jack setup.

Heck, the diff is designed to come out as a unit with simple tools - that's the beauty of it. When I bought this 40, much maintenance had been
'deferred' and the rear end was shot. I luckily live about 3 miles away from Spector and they had a rebuilt one sitting on the floor behind the
counter that I was able to swap into my '63! Of course I did the axle bearings and brake cylinders while everything was apart; they needed it!
Now that old diff is sitting on my floor waiting for me to dig in and learn how to set it up correctly - maybe install a locker when I'm ready.

 

[DylanH239]

After I took apart my stuck odometer and cleaned it I reinstalled the cluster and took it for a test drive to make sure everything worked. The odometer now rolls over correctly and the speedometer is accurate. The only issue I’m having now is my ammeter doesn’t work before I took out the cluster it worked perfectly and would show amp draw/charge. I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any fuses for the 30 amp ammeter I can only find one white wire leading to the fuse panel under dash and one white and blue wire leading to the alternator/fusible link. If I smoked the gauge/wiring would anything else be effected? I didn’t notice any other issues with the vehicle lights, cluster, horn etc only the ammeter not reading.

 

[pb4ugo]

I don't think there's a fuse. From what you describe, I'm not sure your connections are correct. Usually the white connects to the batt thru a fusible link. The other end goes to the + pos side of the ammeter. The - neg side of the ammeter gets the white/Blue stripe wire. The neg side of the ammeter is not a ground, so dont ground it. It's a ref of current direction in relation to the gauge. B4 removing the cluster be sure to disconnect the batt. Accidently grounding the ammeter connections can be catastrophic to the harness.

 

[DylanH239]

I don't think there's a fuse. From what you describe, I'm not sure your connections are correct. Usually the white connects to the batt thru a fusible link. The other end goes to the + pos side of the ammeter. The - neg side of the ammeter gets the white/Blue stripe wire. The neg side of the ammeter is not a ground, so dont ground it. It's a ref of current direction in relation to the gauge. B4 removing the cluster be sure to disconnect the batt. Accidently grounding the ammeter connections can be catastrophic to the harness.

Sorry I should’ve been clearer the white wire does lead to the battery/fusible link. Have it hooked to the (+) on the ammeter and white/blue goes to (-)negative. Would it be obvious if I grounded the harness? I have no other issues beside my ammeter not working. No burnt wires, all the lights work, working radio etc.

 

[pb4ugo]

The only issue I’m having now is my ammeter doesn’t work before I took out the cluster it worked perfectly and would show amp draw/charge. I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any fuses for the 30 amp ammeter I can only find one white wire leading to the fuse panel under dash and one white and blue wire leading to the alternator/fusible link. If I smoked the gauge/wiring would anything else be effected? I didn’t notice any other issues with the vehicle lights, cluster, horn etc only the ammeter not reading.

I can only go by what you describe.

Is the wire circled the white wire?

 

[DylanH239]

I can only go by what you describe.

Is the wire circled the white wire?

I appreciate the help my apologies but, yes sir the circled wire is the white wire going to the battery and the white/blue goes to alternator.

 

[pb4ugo]

Is the white/blue stripe wire connected to the neg side of the ammeter?

Have you checked continuity thru the ammeter?

 

[DylanH239]

Is the white/blue stripe wire connected to the neg side of the ammeter?

Have you checked continuity thru the ammeter?

Yes the white/blue stripe wire is connected to the negative side here’s a picture.

How would I check for continuity? I’m sorry I’m not the best with electrical.

Would it be obvious if I grounded the harness would I have more issues? I have a different set of battery cables/fusible link I canb swap to see if it burn the link up but I don’t see anything visual indicating burnt wiring.

 

[pb4ugo]

The only wires to be grounded are usually the white/black stripe wires and the neg batt cable to the frame. It looks like it's hooked up correctly and unmolested. It probably has continuity if it starts and accessories work. With the batt hooked up along with the white wire, the engine off, does the needle move to neg side when you turn on the lights? Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter?

 

[DylanH239]

The only wires to be grounded are usually the white/black stripe wires and the neg batt cable to the frame. It looks like it's hooked up correctly and unmolested. It probably has continuity if it starts and accessories work. With the batt hooked up along with the white wire, the engine off, does the needle move to neg side when you turn on the lights? Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter?

No the gauge doesn’t move at all but before I fixed my odometer with the engine off & battery connected it would do as your describing and show a draw but now it doesn’t move at all no matter what you do turn on lights, turn on radio etc. It doesn’t show it’s charging either when I’m driving/rev engine just no movement at all.

Yes I have a multimeter.

 

[pb4ugo]

See if the system is charging or not. The FSM is limited on its info. I guess it either works or not. Maybe something internally like the moving plate (as in the diagram) in the meter is stuck. Idk.

 

[DylanH239]

See if the system is charging or not. The FSM is limited on its info. I guess it either works or not. Maybe something internally like the moving plate (as in the diagram) in the meter is stuck. Idk.

Thanks for the help/insight I will test to see if the system is charging and will probably order a replacement gauge. I just replaced the cables and fusible link and the ammeter isn’t working so I think I can rule the fusible link out.

 

[pb4ugo]

If the fusible link was bad then most everything wouldn't work.

 

[DylanH239]

I replaced the original battery cables with the Heavy Duty Cable set from @Fourrunner and replaced the fusible link with one from @Coolerman. I gave this a try to see if it would fix my 30 amp ammeter not working unfortunately my ammeter isn’t reading anything but I got a badass battery cable set. If anyone has input on possible things to inspect on the ammeter please let me know.

Pic1: Final product both grounds, positive terminal and fusible link.

Pic2: Positive side connected to battery, started and fusible link.
(cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)

Pic3: Frame side ground
(cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)

Pic4: Ground to starter (cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)

Pic5: Original battery cables and fusible link as part of positive battery cable

 

[DylanH239]

If the fusible link was bad then most everything wouldn't work.

I went ahead and tested the battery/charging system with the battery connected and the vehicle off I got 13 volts. With the vehicle on idling in neutral the max it got to was 15.3 volts but the truck was idling high so I’m assuming that’s why the voltage is a bit higher than 14.5 volts. The only time I noticed a real drop was when I was idling with my headlights on the voltage tapered down to around 14 volts.

 

[pb4ugo]

15+ volts is a little high. You say the ammeter was working b4 you worked on the odometer, I think id tap on the ammeter/cluster or crack open the cluster and look and see if something is stuck in the ammeter.

 

[DylanH239]

15+ volts is a little high. You say the ammeter was working b4 you worked on the odometer, I think id tap on the ammeter/cluster or crack open the cluster and look and see if something is stuck in the ammeter.

I will take the cluster out again tomorrow I’m assuming it was at 15+ volts since the engine was idling high I’m assuming I’d have to drive it some the emissions computer probably reset when I had the battery cables off usually runs crappy for a bit afterwards.

 

[pb4ugo]

Obviously power is going thru the ammeter, it's just not registering the current.

 

[70fj40]

Is there a way to test the gauge itself without adding power??