What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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After I took apart my stuck odometer and cleaned it I reinstalled the cluster and took it for a test drive to make sure everything worked. The odometer now rolls over correctly and the speedometer is accurate. The only issue I’m having now is my ammeter doesn’t work before I took out the cluster it worked perfectly and would show amp draw/charge. I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any fuses for the 30 amp ammeter I can only find one white wire leading to the fuse panel under dash and one white and blue wire leading to the alternator/fusible link. If I smoked the gauge/wiring would anything else be effected? I didn’t notice any other issues with the vehicle lights, cluster, horn etc only the ammeter not reading.
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I don't think there's a fuse. From what you describe, I'm not sure your connections are correct. Usually the white connects to the batt thru a fusible link. The other end goes to the + pos side of the ammeter. The - neg side of the ammeter gets the white/Blue stripe wire. The neg side of the ammeter is not a ground, so dont ground it. It's a ref of current direction in relation to the gauge. B4 removing the cluster be sure to disconnect the batt. Accidently grounding the ammeter connections can be catastrophic to the harness.

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pb4ugo said:
I don't think there's a fuse. From what you describe, I'm not sure your connections are correct. Usually the white connects to the batt thru a fusible link. The other end goes to the + pos side of the ammeter. The - neg side of the ammeter gets the white/Blue stripe wire. The neg side of the ammeter is not a ground, so dont ground it. It's a ref of current direction in relation to the gauge. B4 removing the cluster be sure to disconnect the batt. Accidently grounding the ammeter connections can be catastrophic to the harness.

Sorry I should’ve been clearer the white wire does lead to the battery/fusible link. Have it hooked to the (+) on the ammeter and white/blue goes to (-)negative. Would it be obvious if I grounded the harness? I have no other issues beside my ammeter not working. No burnt wires, all the lights work, working radio etc.
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DylanH239 said:
The only issue I’m having now is my ammeter doesn’t work before I took out the cluster it worked perfectly and would show amp draw/charge. I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any fuses for the 30 amp ammeter I can only find one white wire leading to the fuse panel under dash and one white and blue wire leading to the alternator/fusible link. If I smoked the gauge/wiring would anything else be effected? I didn’t notice any other issues with the vehicle lights, cluster, horn etc only the ammeter not reading.
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I can only go by what you describe.

Is the wire circled the white wire?
 
Is the white/blue stripe wire connected to the neg side of the ammeter?

Have you checked continuity thru the ammeter?
 
pb4ugo said:
Is the white/blue stripe wire connected to the neg side of the ammeter?

Have you checked continuity thru the ammeter?
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Yes the white/blue stripe wire is connected to the negative side here’s a picture.

How would I check for continuity? I’m sorry I’m not the best with electrical.

Would it be obvious if I grounded the harness would I have more issues? I have a different set of battery cables/fusible link I canb swap to see if it burn the link up but I don’t see anything visual indicating burnt wiring.
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The only wires to be grounded are usually the white/black stripe wires and the neg batt cable to the frame. It looks like it's hooked up correctly and unmolested. It probably has continuity if it starts and accessories work. With the batt hooked up along with the white wire, the engine off, does the needle move to neg side when you turn on the lights? Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter?
 
pb4ugo said:
The only wires to be grounded are usually the white/black stripe wires and the neg batt cable to the frame. It looks like it's hooked up correctly and unmolested. It probably has continuity if it starts and accessories work. With the batt hooked up along with the white wire, the engine off, does the needle move to neg side when you turn on the lights? Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter?
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No the gauge doesn’t move at all but before I fixed my odometer with the engine off & battery connected it would do as your describing and show a draw but now it doesn’t move at all no matter what you do turn on lights, turn on radio etc. It doesn’t show it’s charging either when I’m driving/rev engine just no movement at all.

Yes I have a multimeter.
 
See if the system is charging or not. The FSM is limited on its info. I guess it either works or not. Maybe something internally like the moving plate (as in the diagram) in the meter is stuck. Idk.
 
pb4ugo said:
See if the system is charging or not. The FSM is limited on its info. I guess it either works or not. Maybe something internally like the moving plate (as in the diagram) in the meter is stuck. Idk.
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Thanks for the help/insight I will test to see if the system is charging and will probably order a replacement gauge. I just replaced the cables and fusible link and the ammeter isn’t working so I think I can rule the fusible link out.
 
If the fusible link was bad then most everything wouldn't work.
 
I replaced the original battery cables with the Heavy Duty Cable set from @Fourrunner and replaced the fusible link with one from @Coolerman. I gave this a try to see if it would fix my 30 amp ammeter not working unfortunately my ammeter isn’t reading anything but I got a badass battery cable set. If anyone has input on possible things to inspect on the ammeter please let me know.

Pic1: Final product both grounds, positive terminal and fusible link.
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Pic2: Positive side connected to battery, started and fusible link.
(cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)
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Pic3: Frame side ground
(cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)
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Pic4: Ground to starter (cleaned mating surfaces and applied dielectric grease)
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Pic5: Original battery cables and fusible link as part of positive battery cable
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pb4ugo said:
If the fusible link was bad then most everything wouldn't work.
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I went ahead and tested the battery/charging system with the battery connected and the vehicle off I got 13 volts. With the vehicle on idling in neutral the max it got to was 15.3 volts but the truck was idling high so I’m assuming that’s why the voltage is a bit higher than 14.5 volts. The only time I noticed a real drop was when I was idling with my headlights on the voltage tapered down to around 14 volts.

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15+ volts is a little high. You say the ammeter was working b4 you worked on the odometer, I think id tap on the ammeter/cluster or crack open the cluster and look and see if something is stuck in the ammeter.
 
pb4ugo said:
15+ volts is a little high. You say the ammeter was working b4 you worked on the odometer, I think id tap on the ammeter/cluster or crack open the cluster and look and see if something is stuck in the ammeter.
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I will take the cluster out again tomorrow I’m assuming it was at 15+ volts since the engine was idling high I’m assuming I’d have to drive it some the emissions computer probably reset when I had the battery cables off usually runs crappy for a bit afterwards.
 
Obviously power is going thru the ammeter, it's just not registering the current.
 
pb4ugo said:
Obviously power is going thru the ammeter, it's just not registering the current.
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I’m hoping it’s just a faulty gauge/stuck I ordered a replacement ammeter gauge from “Florida Yard” in case I can’t fix the one I’ve got now. I was messing around a bit more with the truck and the volts are around 15 at start then taper down to 14.1-14.3 volts and stay steady after idling a few minutes.
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1) Sounds like your regulator needs adjusting. Voltage shouldn't get over 15 even with the engine at full chat.
2) pull the ammeter out and inspect - you've probably shorted one side to ground against the steel opening while installing and melted the winding.
 
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