What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (10 Viewers)

[DylanH239]

Obviously power is going thru the ammeter, it's just not registering the current.

I’m hoping it’s just a faulty gauge/stuck I ordered a replacement ammeter gauge from “Florida Yard” in case I can’t fix the one I’ve got now. I was messing around a bit more with the truck and the volts are around 15 at start then taper down to 14.1-14.3 volts and stay steady after idling a few minutes.

 

[45Dougal]

1) Sounds like your regulator needs adjusting. Voltage shouldn't get over 15 even with the engine at full chat.
2) pull the ammeter out and inspect - you've probably shorted one side to ground against the steel opening while installing and melted the winding.

 

[DylanH239]

1) Sounds like your regulator needs adjusting. Voltage shouldn't get over 15 even with the engine at full chat.
2) pull the ammeter out and inspect - you've probably shorted one side to ground against the steel opening while installing and melted the winding.

How would I adjust the regulator?

Planning on pulling the cluster out again tomorrow. Look for burnt/melted on the backside?

 

[knuckle47]

The ammeter on mine was the same…dead! …the PO basically twisted the two wires together ..and not stock color codes. Fortunately I did have another 30A gauge from an old dash cluster and replaced it. With the angle of the connection terminals on the gauge , when removing the cluster it can easily arc against the dash frame so it is a great idea to disconnect the battery. On the other hand, unless you removed the gauge and jammed up something on the re-install, you could have simply fried the gauge .

the ammeter wiring is easily thought of as a single cable that was cut into two pieces with the ammeter spliced in. I have @Coolerman fuse able link and he does a great job….additionally the gauge is fully insulated from the cluster plate so when you get in there, watch out for those little insulators on each terminal. They have a molded portion that fits into the plate so it won’t move and cause a short.

 

[DylanH239]

The ammeter on mine was the same…dead! …the PO basically twisted the two wires together ..and not stock color codes. Fortunately I did have another 30A gauge from an old dash cluster and replaced it. With the angle of the connection terminals on the gauge , when removing the cluster it can easily arc against the dash frame so it is a great idea to disconnect the battery. On the other hand, unless you removed the gauge and jammed up something on the re-install, you could have simply fried the gauge .

the ammeter wiring is easily thought of as a single cable that was cut into two pieces with the ammeter spliced in. I have @Coolerman fuse able link and he does a great job….additionally the gauge is fully insulated from the cluster plate so when you get in there, watch out for those little insulators on each terminal. They have a molded portion that fits into the plate so it won’t move and cause a short.



View attachment 3521965View attachment 3521966View attachment 3521967

I’ve ordered a replacement ammeter but plan on taking the cluster apart again tomorrow will definitely take the battery cables off before. Is this picture the “insulators” you talking about?

 

[knuckle47]

@DylanH239 yep…they’re tiny and pass thru from the face side of the cluster to the rear under that washer and nut. If you’re removing the gauge, they will likely pull out on the terminal screws with the gauge BUT BUT BUT they’ve been mounted a long time and may stick to the metal dash plate, then you go to put it down somewhere and at the same time one of them gets jarred loose and falls on the floor…bounces 10 feet away and you’ll spend another hour looking for it

hahaha..don’t ask how I know that

 

[DylanH239]

@DylanH239 yep…they’re tiny and pass thru from the face side of the cluster to the rear under that washer and nut. If you’re removing the gauge, they will likely pull out on the terminal screws with the gauge BUT BUT BUT they’ve been mounted a long time and may stick to the metal dash plate, then you go to put it down somewhere and at the same time one of them gets jarred loose and falls on the floor…bounces 10 feet away and you’ll spend another hour looking for it

hahaha..don’t ask how I know that

Thanks for the info & have a happy new year everyone!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

something very special new & different for folks who like to have options at there finger tips on demand , when conditions demand more options ..

.


NOTE : make sure to CLICK ON the VOLUME little speaker icon lower RH corner , turn your device volume on to its MAX volume level ,,

 

[ijonesinsp]

Refreshed my front heater.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Is there a way to test the gauge itself without adding power??

Fluke makes some nice clamp meters that read DC current.


Know any electricians?

 

[Michael B]

I borrowed this from another forum.

 

[45Dougal]

How would I adjust the regulator?

Planning on pulling the cluster out again tomorrow. Look for burnt/melted on the backside?

Assuming that you're still using the original mechanical regulator, you can open it up, clean, and then bend the actuator slightly - I think this may be covered in the FSM. Otherwise go solid state and enter the new century.

Pull the gauge out and trace the wire between the two terminals - its probably melted somehow or else the gauge is stuck.

 

[DylanH239]

Assuming that you're still using the original mechanical regulator, you can open it up, clean, and then bend the actuator slightly - I think this may be covered in the FSM. Otherwise go solid state and enter the new century.

Pull the gauge out and trace the wire between the two terminals - its probably melted somehow or else the gauge is stuck.

I looked at the voltage regulator today it looks like its been replaced at some point currently it has a “New Era” regulator in there (1st pic). Thinking about just swapping it out since it already after market.

Is this the wire your referring too? One is white and the other white and blue. (Pic2)

 

[MaltbyPenn]

After a long mental block, I’ve finally finished my trim pieces for the top. I really need my garage back, but the tops off my FJ40 and the roll cage is preventing me from fitting these trim pieces.

Here is the finished product, sorry for the dark pics as the top is out in the dark.

IMG_5493.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Jan 1, 2024

IMG_5494.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Jan 1, 2024

The backer has magnets that hold it firmly in place.

IMG_5496.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Jan 1, 2024

I bought the material from Corbeau so it’s a match to my seats.

IMG_5495.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Jan 1, 2024

Door panels are next.

 

[rex in bama]

I recently had my hood blow open on my FJ40 at highway speed (forever memorialized in my thread "Have you ever wondered"). During the repair, the 51 year-old rubber hood latch bumpers finally gave up the ghost. I couldn't find anyone stocking OEM replacements so I came up with my own fix that is more like stock than the aftermarket bumpers SOR sells as replacements. I got some rubber feet (for cutting boards as I recall) off Amazon and attached them with stainless steel rivets. Though not OEM, it works quite nicely and was a pretty economical fix. The foot print isn't identical (and it has a hollow center for the fastener) so it doesn't perfectly cover the area where the old bumpers rubbed off the paint so I need to address that before it starts to rust. Still, I was pleased with the result.View attachment 3519878View attachment 3519879View attachment 3519881View attachment 3519882

Well that gave me a great idea for a quick fix this w/e! Thanks!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Pulled a 2f engine apart and put it on an engine stand this past week. some good and bad. the distributor was toast and the carb seems to be too far gone to rebuild. I think I am going to spring for a new exhaust manifold as well. Currently debating weather I want to go the extra and put new bearings in the bottom end. I dont think I am going to have it rebuilt as I can still see cross hatching in the cylinders. but still unsure. hopefully going to put this engine in my sbc swapped fj40 along with the 4speed trans the engine came with. the gears and syncros in the trans still look good.

I only broke two bolts in the whole tear down. technically one was not me as well. see if you can find them.

Pistons had a lot of carbon. been slowly cleaning them up currently.

 

[knuckle47]

Nice job pulling this out and finding some problems so quickly. My guess for the broken bolts is;

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Nice job pulling this out and finding some problems so quickly. My guess for the broken bolts is;

View attachment 3523153

You got it! yeah the water pump one seems to be a stud frozen In there. I broke half the stud off trying to get it off after this picture. I think I am going to try and weld on a nut to get it off next.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Refreshed my front heater. View attachment 3521994

Did you have to drain the radiator to accomplish this? I assume "yes" so I have been holding off for a full hose replacement project.

 

[RMD3050]

Polished the Warn hubs…….