What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (55 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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blossett
SILVER Star
Started with just putting in caster shims but the pin that came with them is slightly too large for the hole in the spring pack. Gotta remove the springs to enlarge the hole a bit. Figured I should cleanup the spring pack and reassemble while they are out. Should I just treat rust , paint and reassemble or should I grease between the springs as well?
Green Bean
SILVER Star
I broke a lot of drill bits drilling through the OME spring packs with a hand drill. That is some really hardened spring steel. Finally got one side and ended up taking the other side to a machine shop with a heavy drill press. In nether case did I separate the packs. Good luck.
blossett
SILVER Star
Thanks!
16470-24010 is now a permanent fixture ......
100% MADE IN JAPAN Genuine NipponDenso ....
- Can be Bottom-Fed or TOP-Fed\
- comes with the correct profile OEM mounting bracket too ....
- Lower-FED comes with a generous 36" of oem overflow hose
- x 3 OEM spring clamps too
- or
- Traditional TOP - FED type , same length your choice
.
100% MADE IN JAPAN Genuine NipponDenso ....
- Can be Bottom-Fed or TOP-Fed\
- comes with the correct profile OEM mounting bracket too ....
- Lower-FED comes with a generous 36" of oem overflow hose
- x 3 OEM spring clamps too
- or
- Traditional TOP - FED type , same length your choice
.
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This weekend I installed an upgrade 60amp alternator and voltage regulator on my 69 F145 that I got from @ToyotaMatt. Added one of his slick adjusters for my driver side mounted setup. The 60 amp is a little bigger and required a slightly longer belt. Everything working great now!
This weekend I installed an upgrade 60amp alternator and voltage regulator on my 69 F145 that I got from @ToyotaMatt. Added one of his slick adjusters for my driver side mounted setup. The 60 amp is a little bigger and required a slightly longer belt. Everything working great now!
you know Martin I always have your back …
and the correct longer needed 17mm x 1190mm
Cogged OEM Mitsubishi Bando Japan spec.Drive Belts too ...Alas….. Bando-Japan spec. on a Sunday morning is so simply Bliss ….
..
Your little buddy there , your NOS DENSO son has 8 sexy Yellow Decals NOS freshies ....chasing after him now !
.
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micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Awhile back (last month? 
) I was dealing with fuel delivery issues and found a fuel leak in the cab, which has dissolved the floor paint. 
Maintenance program commenced: remove passenger seat and fuel tank and find this:
Yep that ther iz rust-through. . . Found the oxy-acetylene gas supplier had retired, but another garage picked up his inventory so I exchanged the empty bottle for a new one and proceeded to re-learn my molecular joining skills with mild steel 16 ga. thickness. Then after carefully isolating the under-cab fuel and brake lines with spare pieces of metal roofing and wood blocks, I cut out the rusty bits and located some sheet steel which turned out to be too thin- burning excess and not getting good welds. They broke apart easily when I hammered them (F%#@c£).
Then I got inspired by looking through the odds and ends of junk metal and found the struts from an old BBQ grill were the exact thickness of 16 ga. (1/16”), ground off the rust to shiny metal and got a couple good tacks and FIRE
(undercoat began to burn), hearty breathing put that out 
Then I got underneath and scraped it off around the weld site and started over again. Welding is tough with oxy-acetylene torch and rod. Probably will search for a good value MIG setup.
Here’s the fuel tank:
I installed it back in ‘99. Obviously it hid moisture underneath which led to the rust.
Mid-project right now, and I’ll post up photos after welding is complete. UPS is delivering new welding rods . . . I’m still waiting.
) I was dealing with fuel delivery issues and found a fuel leak in the cab, which has dissolved the floor paint. Maintenance program commenced: remove passenger seat and fuel tank and find this:Yep that ther iz rust-through. . . Found the oxy-acetylene gas supplier had retired, but another garage picked up his inventory so I exchanged the empty bottle for a new one and proceeded to re-learn my molecular joining skills with mild steel 16 ga. thickness. Then after carefully isolating the under-cab fuel and brake lines with spare pieces of metal roofing and wood blocks, I cut out the rusty bits and located some sheet steel which turned out to be too thin- burning excess and not getting good welds. They broke apart easily when I hammered them (F%#@c£).
Then I got inspired by looking through the odds and ends of junk metal and found the struts from an old BBQ grill were the exact thickness of 16 ga. (1/16”), ground off the rust to shiny metal and got a couple good tacks and FIRE
(undercoat began to burn), hearty breathing put that out Then I got underneath and scraped it off around the weld site and started over again. Welding is tough with oxy-acetylene torch and rod. Probably will search for a good value MIG setup.
Here’s the fuel tank:
I installed it back in ‘99. Obviously it hid moisture underneath which led to the rust.
Mid-project right now, and I’ll post up photos after welding is complete. UPS is delivering new welding rods . . . I’m still waiting.
Out with the old and in with the new. The shackles were a breeze, but the pins were a pain in the arse.
The PO put poly bushings on the shackles many years ago, so they came right out. However, the pins were the original rubber bushings and were seized on.
I had to burn them out.
It's true what they say about the handling... way better with new bushings! Unfortunately, I had to cut my exhaust to make room for the shackle, but I will fix it this week.
The next project will be the body mounts and maybe Dobinsons springs, but it will be a while. The wife said no more spending money on the FJ.
The PO put poly bushings on the shackles many years ago, so they came right out. However, the pins were the original rubber bushings and were seized on.
I had to burn them out.
It's true what they say about the handling... way better with new bushings! Unfortunately, I had to cut my exhaust to make room for the shackle, but I will fix it this week.
The next project will be the body mounts and maybe Dobinsons springs, but it will be a while. The wife said no more spending money on the FJ.
Took my Meano HJ45 truck to a local safari park in the UK with the kids to give them a first taste of African safari.
That's what it was built for, so felt pretty good driving around the wild animals.
I didn't get out to take photos of the truck; the captive lions aren't so forgiving.
That's what it was built for, so felt pretty good driving around the wild animals.
I didn't get out to take photos of the truck; the captive lions aren't so forgiving.
I added a 12v cigarette lighter plug to test out my new GMRS radio but somehow knocked out my 58 year old ignition switch in the process (I wasn't working near it but did monkey with the 58 year old fuse panel). After some non-specific fiddling with the switch, it works again but I fear there are worn contacts or something failing inside. I haven't looked to see if this can be rebuilt but I may be needing to hit up toyotamatt for a new switch. Can a locksmith re-core my door lock to match the new ignition swtich?
Well back on topic…
I installed new window roller handles. The one on the left keeps popping off the little c clip and falling off. I think it may be the door card that’s somehow pushing it out as I turn it to open/close.
I installed new window roller handles. The one on the left keeps popping off the little c clip and falling off. I think it may be the door card that’s somehow pushing it out as I turn it to open/close.
Rebuilt (really just crazy glued the plastic insert that holds the contacts and pull rod in back together) the fan switch as when I pulled it the rod just fell out and no fan!! Pics attached. Also repainted the front bezel (it was poorly done 1st time around by PO with bubbles/chips) with Cruiser Corps spray Cygnus White. Turned out pretty good. Pics as well
Replacing the body mounts will also be a noticable ride improvement and even less vibration at idleOut with the old and in with the new. The shackles were a breeze, but the pins were a pain in the arse.
The PO put poly bushings on the shackles many years ago, so they came right out. However, the pins were the original rubber bushings and were seized on.
I had to burn them out.
It's true what they say about the handling... way better with new bushings! Unfortunately, I had to cut my exhaust to make room for the shackle, but I will fix it this week.
The next project will be the body mounts and maybe Dobinsons springs, but it will be a while. The wife said no more spending money on the FJ.
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Highly recommend the CCOT leaf springs if you decide to move fwd with that project (although you will need to confirm if your replacement shackles are the correct length to use for those springs to get the amount of desired lift)
What is CCOT?
cool cruisers of texas
Thanks!
1911
chupacabra
We hand crafted a bunch of fresh tubs! No biggy.
