What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (64 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It's got a DD slip-shaft.

If the next owner wants to buy new U-joints, they are welcome to.
Nothing wrong with the U-joints. On my phone screen it looked like a round shaft welded together solid (which could be bad). With the strong U-joint, a DD slip shaft and some solid welds you should be good to go.

In these parts welds aren’t permitted on steering components on street driven vehicles. No exceptions. That said, I understand they are accountable at the race track. Go figure.

I didn’t want any potential hassles so I designed my conversion without any wheels on the steering components. The scab plates are welded to the frame on both sides, but the strength comes from the grade 8 bolts with lock nuts, lock washers, Loctite, and thick wall DOM tubing crush sleeves.
 
Not the most exciting but installed hubs on my rig today…first time it’s ever had a chance to “freewheel“ since it’s birth in 82’…these Saudi rigs didn’t come with locking hubs (saved the original end caps, hate to throw away serviceable parts…😉)

View attachment 3297177
Great update, congrats mate!
It seems that all 40-Series in Saudi (if not in the whole Middle East) do not have free wheeling hubs...

Could you please give the part number of your AISIN hubs? I will soon order them for my FJ45 restoration...
 
Painted my fender flairs off white last night to look more period appropriate ( and not look like overspray)

CB06E243-52E9-4687-B128-DDB0B1851CBD.jpeg


37FC0C62-DC57-4462-A508-78EA09B4B0C8.jpeg
 
Three days of looking for a short - rear tail lights on a 68FJ40. Turns out the paint shop removed the rear license plate light and that was the issue. Ordered a new light from FJParts.

Cleaned up a lot of wiring in the process.

image.jpg
 
Restored a 1964 SD40 carb. My 3rd one this year. Trying to decide if I should put it on my swb or sell it.
854FEF8C-C2C1-4A9E-A980-EEDA3F71B04B.jpeg
 
Both the cad and the blue paint are amazing condition, buried under a layer of sludge for many decades. I pulled it off a parts rig in ‘93, and from the looks of things, it had only been rebuilt once before.
20317C3F-73BA-47C6-9C88-4AA6C7A5A2CF.jpeg
 
Went for a drive yesterday to test the new Energy Suspension body mounts installed months ago. I’m happy to report, the ride is significantly smoother vs my older mounts. The softer polyurethane mounts improve the ride. You can see my old mounts in post #32,791 within this thread.

Then went for a ride.

2EA0A400-F706-47AE-82A7-731DB1CC1E6E.jpeg
0BC47EAA-2A67-4FB3-9F88-B79624B1C6DE.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Help Required.... Any Suggestions?

I replaced the body mounts this winter and upgraded the headlights. When put everything back together, I now have gaps on the hood. I did the mud search and found the reference shown below.

1681597059529.png


I have tired these steps and the gaps are worse if I shift the tub on the frame. While I don't expect a perfect fit, I'm trying to get it closer than it is. Nothing is bolted to the frame. The gap on the hood to cowl is even. The fender mounts are against the frame with no gaps. Passenger fender is OEM. Driver's is replacement.

The gap was significantly less before I did the work this winter. There doesn't seem to be any other place to adjust the gap out.

Driver's side:

1681597350155.png


Passenger's side

1681597417126.png

1681597901061.png
 
Last edited:
Help Required.... Any Suggestions?

I replaced the body mounts this winter and upgraded the headlights. When put everything back together, I now have gaps on the hood. I did the mud search and found the reference shown below.

View attachment 3299155

I have tired these steps and the gaps are worse if I shift the tub on the frame. While I don't expect a perfect fit, I'm trying to get it closer than it is. Nothing is bolted to the frame. The gap on the hood to cowl is even. The fender mounts are against the frame with no gaps. Passenger fender is OEM. Driver's is replacement.

The gap was significantly less before I did the work this winter. There doesn't seem to be any other place to adjust the gap out.

Driver's side:

View attachment 3299158

Passenger's side

View attachment 3299160
View attachment 3299171
Did you get new hood hinges? How is the gap between the cowl and the hood? I had the same issue because of the cowl and the hinges being different
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom