What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (31 Viewers)

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Seats are in (need to fab a spacer for the passenger side).

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Tried the half done exhaust (it's quite loud).

Went for a "long" drive. Need to address brakes, whatever that clack is, and tires.

 
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Nice job, but your 40 doesn't look like a diesel.
Been running that stuff for over 15 years in my gas 2f's. No issues. Read somewhere on here years ago that is was a good Oil for these tractor engines.
 
Been running that stuff for over 15 years in my gas 2f's. No issues. Read somewhere on here years ago that is was a good Oil for these tractor engines.
I’ve run it in pretty much everything including my Lexus GX
 
Got the valves adjusted…. Some were a bit loose, one a bit tight and some were just right. But I know they are now good to go for awhile.

She still idles a bit rough, which just started in the last month or so…. Working my way down the list - new plugs, new distributor cap/rotor, (plug wires < 1yr old), reset the timing, re-torqued the manifold and carb bolts ( thinking it might possibly be a small air leak), and even tinkered with the Sniper settings a bit… but no solution so far. Will probably go ahead and replace the fuel filters so I can check that box as well.

But she runs great at rpm >1000 with plenty of power (although “power” is a relative term on these 2F’s 🤣) which still makes me think it might be an air / vacuum leak somewhere.

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Help Required.... Any Suggestions?

I replaced the body mounts this winter and upgraded the headlights. When put everything back together, I now have gaps on the hood. I did the mud search and found the reference shown below.

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I have tired these steps and the gaps are worse if I shift the tub on the frame. While I don't expect a perfect fit, I'm trying to get it closer than it is. Nothing is bolted to the frame. The gap on the hood to cowl is even. The fender mounts are against the frame with no gaps. Passenger fender is OEM. Driver's is replacement.

The gap was significantly less before I did the work this winter. There doesn't seem to be any other place to adjust the gap out.

Driver's side:

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Passenger's side

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How's your front bib hinge? There's some room for adjustment there which is where I find you get most of your side to side play from. Just my 2c
 
Still broke, so still no paint in sight. Still, at least that means I get to just drive it!

Longest haul out of town so far, went to the farm to visit my dad just as they are starting to combine. Was a good day.


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Power steering overhaul continues with redoing the box mount the ignorant PO (in this case that’s Present Owner 🤫) erroneously welded on.

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Horn almost all cleaned up, damn that thing was really welded on there…
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Plate position mocked up. I am not responsible for the gaping maw in the frame but I am on the hook for how to elegantly fix it.
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When you changed the body mount on tub did you do them all at once or in sections?
I’m curious about this too as I’ll be tackling this in the future. My thought was to start with the two rear most and work my way forward… if that’s even possible.
 
I’m curious about this too as I’ll be tackling this in the future. My thought was to start with the two rear most and work my way forward… if that’s even possible.


I have dealt with the hood alignments in the past. Seen too many hoods too far forward. Strongest point is at the very front edge where the vertical and horizontal meet. What to keep the edge to the pads on the bib. I have to pull bend the lip back down. Spring loaded hooks and washboard roads put a lot of stress on the front edge.

It might sound backwards but if your alignment is good I would do the hood, fenders, aprons and bib first. Then once that's done do the tub and align it the front clip. So many adjustments in the front versus the tub. If the front clip is done and misalignment when done with the tub should only have to deal with a single piece (tub) versus multiple adjustments on the front clip.
 
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i have never seen or heard of this before other then when you could still purchase a original 82600-30022 fuse box at your local TOYOTA Dealer Parts Dept. counter ...

- so this is indeed the next best thing , and well i suppose Vintage TOYOTA Land Cruiser History is being made after all , this being the worlds first very limited edition 20 fuse-box's full-on production run of my new reproduction 6-bay fuse box , that sports my NON-USA far-away muti-language Anglo-Saxon English TEXT and International Language LOGO's period correct milky-white cover .

Fully Loaded with only the best period correct OEM NOS Anodized
Color Keyed filaments glass tube fuses as the main course ....

and as a icing on the
TEq cake , some #4 mark head gold plated reproduction made in JAPAN double SEMS bolts all period correct and all .....
- if i ever said the words sexy azz early fuse box , this is absolutely it :D
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Had the transfer case rebuilt, resealed, knuckles redone, vacuum 4wd module rebuilt and breaks adjusted. A big Thank you to Beau Parker @ Safari Classic in Hot Springs Arkansas. A great guy and Landcruiser mechanic.
 
A friend recently spoke with an oil scientist. The guy stated older motors should not run synthetic oil due to it not containing zinc, Anyone every heard of this?
1200 ppm is why we run it. These engines will run on about anything.
 

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