What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (58 Viewers)

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I feel like your work-to-fishing ratio is unfairly staggered toward fishing. Also your "I took it out and drove it" pictures are like 500% cooler than mine.

You’ll be driving yours to the beach before you know it!

Gotta get the fishing in while I can, the water will be skinny by the end of the month.

 

[bikersmurf]

Drove it!

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Shakedown runs and 350 break in continue - I put about 50 miles on it tonight, and found a gravel lot where I could make sure the transfercase (rebuilt by me with LOTS of help from @orangefj45) worked as it should.

Everything is running well, but tonight I found something odd -

I get a small fluctuation in amperage, which in turn creates a small (30rpm) idle fluctuation. Normally, idle fluctuates between ~710-740 rpm. I thought that was just the nature of a carbureted engine. What is REALLY odd is that the more electrical load I put on the truck, the BETTER the idle gets. Idle drops (to be expected) under load, but if I have lights, wipers, and fan all running, the truck idles perfectly at 600rpm. Zero (I mean zero) fluctuation or surge.

Alternator issue? Distributor issue? I’ve seen idles hey WORSE when accespries sap power from the distributor - this is the first time I’ve seen it get better...

Tomorrow I’ll unhook the alternator and see if my idle stabilizes without it. Any other thoughts of what might cause something like this?

Took it fishing today.
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I feel like your work-to-fishing ratio is unfairly staggered toward fishing. Also your "I took it out and drove it" pictures are like 500% cooler than mine.

I'm envious of all of you... I only had time to walk past it this week. I'd post a picture, but it'd be so lame some pixles would likely rather die than display it.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I'm envious of all of you... I only had time to walk past it this week. I'd post a picture, but it'd be so lame some pixles would likely rather die than display it.

It takes some time to get it going! Mine was down for a couple of years, I’m still working on a lot of issues on mine.

Get it roadworthy, then work on the little things.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I'd look pretty dumb driving down the side of the highway all the way to GA just for some beer!

What the heck

Could be the adventure of a lifetime.

 

[oregon fj]

Get it roadworthy, then work on the little things.

"Get it roadworthy," the man says. Right...

 

[thecrazygreek]

Bolted on my dual master kit from man a fre. It converts the single master to a dual. Doing it for safety reasons. I'm running a 76 front axle with disc brakes, and this master is built for that scenario.
Notice no booster.... That's right... dual master, front disc non powered brakes. Did a ton of research and found it works just fine...

 

[bikersmurf]

Bolted on my dual master kit from man a fre. It converts the single master to a dual. Doing it for safety reasons. I'm running a 76 front axle with disc brakes, and this master is built for that scenario.
Notice no booster.... That's right... dual master, front disc non powered brakes. Did a ton of research and found it works just fine...

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Good to know that discs will work without the booster... It seem's to come up often.

I'm sure it'll take more pressure... but so does and unboosted brake setup.

 

[40Man]

Received my new tie and relay rods from @cruiseroutfit this afternoon and threw them on the car.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

"Get it roadworthy," the man says. Right...

You’re almost there.

 

[bikersmurf]

It takes some time to get it going! Mine was down for a couple of years, I’m still working on a lot of issues on mine.

Get it roadworthy, then work on the little things.

It is 100% insured and roadworthy... which makes it even worse. It has things that could be worked on, but that’s not why I haven’t had it out

 

[TheHardWay]

You’re almost there.

Yeah, if you meant towworthy

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Yeah, if you meant towworthy

it takes some imagination.

 

[65swb45]

Pulled the trans out of the 45 for an overdue clutch job. IIRC, the clutch is original from 2001 when I installed the rebuilt F135 in the truck. 117k on the odo since then. I pulled the three on the tree for a 4 on the floor conversion shortly after I bought the H42 from @ROOSTER in 2005. I dont remember if I rebuilt the case then, but probably did; if not when I did the motor.

The clutch was in very good condition overall. Still had light swirl marks across the disc surface of the flywheel, lots of meat on the disc; no burn marks on the PP. Not exactly sure why it was starting to slip intermittently. Best guess is that the coil springs on the PP themselves were starting to fade.

But I am glad that I pulled everything regardless. The pilot bearing still turns, but feels like it is not up to snuff any more. Which explains why the input shaft on the trans is galled. I will be replacing it with a lo mileage used on from that H42 with the fubar tail shaft I just posted in the Wall of Shame thread. I bought that trans as a core...28 years ago!

Of course all the resto /detail work I've been doing for people like @DSB345 and @SW20 the last couple of years has affected my judgement. So I HAD to change the fully functional bell housing out with a fully detailed one I got from @kevos37 last year. Bling.

The downside of not taking my own advise about servicing the t-case every 70k [along with the clutch] is that the idler gear in my tcase will now need to be changed. Luckily, I know a guy in Burbank that gives me a good deal on parts. Otherwise, I'll be gutting the case I got from @LAMBCRUSHER earlier this year for what I need.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Which explains why the input shaft on the trans is galled. I will be replacing it with a lo mileage used on from that H42 with the fubar tail shaft I just posted in the Wall of Shame thread.

Question...On that input shaft, is that galling that bad that you couldn't clean up and reuse. How bad does it need to be for replacement? A learning lesson for me.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

The downside of not taking my own advise about servicing the t-case every 70k is that the idler gear in my tcase will now need to be changed.

Just curious because I just rebuilt my case - what does a 70,000mi service look like for the T-case? New bearings? The idler gear in my last case was hosed, as well as the idler gear in a core I'd bought.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Received my new tie and relay rods from @cruiseroutfit this afternoon and threw them on the car.

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Yup, you needed new ones

 

[65swb45]

Question...On that input shaft, is that galling that bad that you couldn't clean up and reuse. How bad does it need to be for replacement? A learning lesson for me.

Mine was pretty bad.

 

[65swb45]

Just curious because I just rebuilt my case - what does a 70,000mi service look like for the T-case? New bearings? The idler gear in my last case was hosed, as well as the idler gear in a core I'd bought.

YMMV. As a general rule, I’ve always advocated 70k for tcases 74 and older (narrow gear) and 60k for the 75-80 cases. While my idler suffered, it was still in preliminary stages: no marring of the thrust washers.

I distinctly remember offering you a smoking deal on a brand new idler gear.

And FWIW, my output shaft looks virtually the same as when I put it in.

As for your idler...that’s just karma.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Front bib assembly under way...

 

[thecrazygreek]

LEDs...