Lifted the top beam in the back into place.
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It was a nightmare today. I'd do one good weld and then blow 3 holes in it.For Body sheet metal a 110v welder, .023 solid wire and c25 gas.
I would hate to use anything else. ( Thicker solid wire or flux core)
My last project I tacked them with the MIG with that setup and TIG welded them solid for fun.
For $1000 I could get an low end Miller or Lincoln, is this really that good?there are a lot of expensive commercial-grade models out there…. but this one works great for me at a much lower price point (and even cheaper when its on one of their coupon sales)
For $1000 I could get an low end Miller or Lincoln, is this really that good?
The “somewhere else but not here again for a bit” is the hardest part for me. If I can’t put my hand on the weld and leave it without burning me, then it’s not ready for more welding. I literally will set a timer otherwise I’ll start rushing tacks before they’re cooled.You don't want to weld it....you want to tack it....here, there, somewhere else but not here again for a bit.
Good advice, I really do need a J60 and J80.The “somewhere else but not here again for a bit” is the hardest part for me. If I can’t put my hand on the weld and leave it without burning me, then it’s not ready for more welding. I literally will set a timer otherwise I’ll start rushing tacks before they’re cooled.
Patience here saves time later. This is precisely why you need 2-3 cruisers minimum. By the time you get done tacking patch panels on the third one, the first is cooled and ready for more!
I just didn’t feel like arguing with him.there are a lot of expensive commercial-grade models out there…. but this one works great for me at a much lower price point (and even cheaper when its on one of their coupon sales)
The older 211s were awesome machines....I mean the whole series was good, but the first round or two were overbuilt/underrated.My Miller-Matic 211 has successfully taken 5/8 plate using .035 wire taking pieces to make fireboxes in several smokers I use to build. The auto-set feature has proven to be 98% accurate for anything I have done with it. Nice thing about 5/8…no cooling necessary…bad thing, you can’t lift it after the first 3 pieces get stuck together
HArd coreSome people talk the talk, and some people WALK the WALK!
Thanks. I’m going rustic green on this 1981, as the purists die a little…Nice Blue.
Props for the Seinfeld quote!They’re real and they’re spectacular…16 GA. sheet metal and solidly constructed.
That’s me!
They are from a company called Sykopaths (I think out of Canada). The little lip at the rear, which I believe is for attaching a soft top window frame, is pretty far back and I never hit my elbow on it. As far as the plates, I got some connects out here on my Island.
You are correct, they came from them. They look great now, but had quite a few fitment problems and needed a lot of fab work to make them work. Plus, we welded door limiter tabs to work with OEM limiters, added interior OEM door handles, and some other body work improvements to make them better. I’m not complaining, as they were sent to me for free to test for quality and fitment. Not sure if they ever corrected our suggestions for improvement though. They cleaned up nice and we painted to match body color. Here are some pics:
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I had my alloy bits and valve cover vapor polished, which is a very fine bead blasting using a liquid medium. It results in a bright, clean surface.I have almost completed the Craigslist rebuild. I am sure I added 20hp with all this black paint. I am not sure what to do with the valve cover though. I don't really want to paint it or buff it shiny so I may just leave it somewhat as is.
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Also got my tank up, a very not fun job. But after looking at that tank in my office for 7 years it is finally where it is supposed to be.
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This was topped off by installation of a Daystar kit and exhaust rail plugs both vintage 2016 purchases.
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After using so many parts from last decade I keep humming. All I do is Win Win Win Win.