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Going all big league on us I see…Received these TMR Toe-In Adjustment Plates and put them to use. From the FSM:
3.5mm (A - B = 3.5mm (0.12-0.20")
A = the rearward side of the front tire.
B= the front facing side of the front tire
Adjusted the toe with the tie rod and using 2 tape measures: The front tape measure should be 1/8” to 1/4" shorter than the rear tape measure.
Previously, I had used the thumb tack method and set the toe-in at approximately 1/8". For grins, I set the toe-in to about 1/4" and will see if I can detect any difference.
View attachment 3707580
Nope, just trying to keep up with you folks. Copied from Bryan (@OlYellr ) But the really deep dive happened when I followed his lead into the world of borscopes. So far, I think that I have mastered how to plug it in to charge the battery. It might be a bit before I can figure out how to synch it and shove it down a spark plug hole.Going all big league on us I see…
On my shackle reversed 60, I ran 1/8" for a while, then adjusted to about 1/4" toe in. It helped considerably. Different application for sure, but just an example that another 1/8" can make a difference.Received these TMR Toe-In Adjustment Plates and put them to use. From the FSM:
3.5mm (A - B = 3.5mm (0.12-0.20")
A = the rearward side of the front tire.
B= the front facing side of the front tire
Adjusted the toe with the tie rod and using 2 tape measures: The front tape measure should be 1/8” to 1/4" shorter than the rear tape measure.
Previously, I had used the thumb tack method and set the toe-in at approximately 1/8". For grins, I set the toe-in to about 1/4" and will see if I can detect any difference.
View attachment 3707580
You got this. You even upgraded to powder coated TMR I see.Nope, just trying to keep up with you folks. Copied from Bryan (@OlYellr ) But the really deep dive happened when I followed his lead into the world of borscopes. So far, I think that I have mastered how to plug it in to charge the battery. It might be a bit before I can figure out how to synch it and shove it down a spark plug hole.![]()
I feel like I need to order this to finish up my front end and linkage swap properlyReceived these TMR Toe-In Adjustment Plates and put them to use. From the FSM:
3.5mm (A - B = 3.5mm (0.12-0.20")
A = the rearward side of the front tire.
B= the front facing side of the front tire
Adjusted the toe with the tie rod and using 2 tape measures: The front tape measure should be 1/8” to 1/4" shorter than the rear tape measure.
Previously, I had used the thumb tack method and set the toe-in at approximately 1/8". For grins, I set the toe-in to about 1/4" and will see if I can detect any difference.
View attachment 3707580
I made a set out 2” aluminum angle I had laying around.I feel like I need to order this to finish up my front end and linkage swap properly
I used the TMR tool, love how easy it is.Received these TMR Toe-In Adjustment Plates and put them to use. From the FSM:
3.5mm (A - B = 3.5mm (0.12-0.20")
A = the rearward side of the front tire.
B= the front facing side of the front tire
Adjusted the toe with the tie rod and using 2 tape measures: The front tape measure should be 1/8” to 1/4" shorter than the rear tape measure.
Previously, I had used the thumb tack method and set the toe-in at approximately 1/8". For grins, I set the toe-in to about 1/4" and will see if I can detect any difference.
View attachment 3707580
I need to do this. I would adjust strikers/ plates so that you don’t have to super slam the door, but enough they don’t rattleRehung the doors after installing the new OEM weatherstripping. I’ve included a couple pictures of how the seal looks when I shut the door vs slam it shut. I noticed the doors are harder to close but will latch fully when I slam the door and sort of “spring open” when I pull the handle. Is this normal until the weatherstripping breaks in or should I readjust the door/striker? Didn’t have my lift table unfortunately but stacked some tires for the perfect height would’ve been easier with 2 people.View attachment 3708338View attachment 3708339View attachment 3708343Door closed with normal force and weatherstripping is exposedView attachment 3708344Door slammed shut and fully latched
Thanks for the input! My 1st time doing something like this.Your fit looks great. If it really bothers you, lube and fiddle with the striker.
Thanks for the input I honestly wasn’t sure how it would come out but the affirmations from you guys are definitely a good sign that I was doing it correctly. Now onto the ambulance doors.It really is a pain in the butt working on a two person project alone. My friends are older than I so asking is out of the question. Those weatherstrip seal will compress over a short time as well. Great job now off the list. It’s got to be satisfying. I’m betting your happy with the results
Built an A frame just to change the distributor on the old tractor when two of us could have just lifted it off. Nothing like a 2 hour job taking 6 hours to do!
View attachment 3708374
When your door is closed with normal force, is the weatherstripping on the top corner making contact with the body? My driver door closes pretty much like this one all the time. Tired to adjust the striker and can't get any more movement out of it. Door is pretty sealed most of the way around except about 4" along the top corner.Rehung the doors after installing the new OEM weatherstripping and added some edge guards. I’ve included a couple pictures of how the seal looks when I shut the door vs slam it shut. I noticed the doors are harder to close but will latch fully when I slam the door and sort of “spring open” when I pull the handle. Is this normal until the weatherstripping breaks in or should I readjust the door/striker? Didn’t have my lift table unfortunately but stacked some tires for the perfect height would’ve been easier with 2 people.View attachment 3708343Door closed with normal force and weatherstripping is exposedDoor slammed shut and fully latched
You need the bib in on that fitting.
Yes it is making contact in the top corner when not forced shut. There is another piece of weatherstripping that is supposed to go into that corner. Not sure if that would help you or not. I’ve yet to install it still waiting for it to show up.When your door is closed with normal force, is the weatherstripping on the top corner making contact with the body? My driver door closes pretty much like this one all the time. Tired to adjust the striker and can't get any more movement out of it. Door is pretty sealed most of the way around except about 4" along the top corner.