What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (51 Viewers)

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I haven't finished everything so haven't done a write up yet. Happy to help if I can though, I spent way more time than I'd like to admit researching and thinking about this wiring project!
 
Sometimes it is the little things like some Velcro powered organization.

Don't forget about the bottom side of the console!

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I can't, I have a cooler in there.
 
I'll join in.... See my build link for more. Pelican charger held by 3M double sticky tape.

Saw that this weekend and instantly added to a Amazon Wish List! :thumbsup:

I also keep my first aid kit (5.11 tear away) as well as a Maxpedition hook and loop holster that way. Lots of cool admin pouches put there as well for cords, tools, etc.

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Yes, been doing it all year with an ARB fridge . That said, I'm getting ready to run wires from aux battery to a new fuse block for the fridge and rear LED lights to run from.

Surprised to hear that. The factory wires running to the rear plug are pretty small. What's the fuse size on the accessory circuit ?

The arb fridge pulls. 7 amp and calls for a. 15 amp fuse I believe.

Running my 50L Ironman like that with no problem. But I am also preparing to get my wiring squared away.
 
It's good to hear that a refrigerator performs properly when plugged into the stock plug. A plan to run an ARB 63 liter that way.
 
It's good to hear that a refrigerator performs properly when plugged into the stock plug. A plan to run an ARB 63 liter that way.

I'm running at 37qt, so make sure the amps draw in the 63 aren't higher than 10A max. The whole factory system is spec'd at 120Watts.

I know a few folks that have turned their nose up at my use of the stock config. Also, install a second battery with split charging system even if you do run this way. I've had several flat batteries because I wanted the ARB to stay coldest even if it took my battery low. I have secondary aux battery and tweak that in for an engine start if the fridge took me low. Better than spoiled food, IMO.

All that said, it's not optimal configuration... Which is why I am pulling a new wire and fuse block to the back and letting all aux things run from the aux battery. That's in addition to the solar panel input, which is how I'll keep it charged when it is sitting around between trips and deployed at camp.

For me, it was just wanting to have some fun with the rig and fridge before I had the time and means to do the rear wiring the right way.

BTW, I consider the ARB fridge one of the best mods on my truck !
 
Four boxes of brake parts arrived just in time for me to be snowed in... Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing kit is pictured along with a smoking deal I stumbled across for cross drilled slotted Power Stop rotors from Rock Auto ($240 for all four including shipping; one set was left last time I checked but price went up $100). I was originally not doing cross drilled slotted until I found this deal so we will see how they work out. I also got OEM Toyota pads from Beno after a little homework on mud from people complaining about the noisy Powerstop pads and also Slee apparently now includes Toyota pads in their brake kits. Ready for install as soon as I get a break in the weather here...



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Four boxes of brake parts arrived just in time for me to be snowed in... Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing kit is pictured along with a smoking deal I stumbled across for cross drilled slotted Power Stop rotors from Rock Auto ($240 for all four including shipping; one set was left last time I checked but price went up $100). I was originally not doing cross drilled slotted until I found this deal so we will see how they work out. I also got OEM Toyota pads from Beno after a little homework on mud from people complaining about the noisy Powerstop pads and also Slee apparently now includes Toyota pads in their brake kits. Ready for install as soon as I get a break in the weather here...



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I don't run the Power Stop rotors. But OEM pads + drilled/slotted work fabulous.
 
Four boxes of brake parts arrived just in time for me to be snowed in... Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing kit is pictured along with a smoking deal I stumbled across for cross drilled slotted Power Stop rotors from Rock Auto ($240 for all four including shipping; one set was left last time I checked but price went up $100). I was originally not doing cross drilled slotted until I found this deal so we will see how they work out. I also got OEM Toyota pads from Beno after a little homework on mud from people complaining about the noisy Powerstop pads and also Slee apparently now includes Toyota pads in their brake kits. Ready for install as soon as I get a break in the weather here...



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I've used drilled rotors in the past on one of my fast cars. I liked them, but wasn't too impressed with the lifespan of the rotors. (I'm sure it couldn't have been my :steer:) I'd really be curious to know how well they work long-term on the LC.
 
Does your hoop bring all the boys to the yard?
 
pulled out a stuck Heep liberty in the snow.
 
I believe the opposite unless there are pictures. ;<)
 

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