DJWUZJ Build out thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
525
Location
Fairfax, VA
Mud has provided me with a wealth of ideas – some of which I’ve implemented with this build. I’ll try to reference those as I go!

I’ll preface with the statement that I’m not a hardcore wheeler, and live in the semi-concrete jungle of Northern Virginia. This is my daily driver, and I am on 1-3 appts per day with my work, so it needs to be a balancing act. If I lived in Utah and worked out of my home, it would be a different story.

I purchased the truck locally in August 2012 from another Mud Member (4Peanut). While I was focused toward a 2004 or newer, and leaning toward a dark colored LX, this Truck was in excellent shape, had some basics done already, and I fell in love right away.



I made it the first 6 months only adding the PA-15TOY iPhone adapter, and doing the 90k maintenance. The prior owner installed a 2” OME lift, and 33’s, so I was happy with it.

In planning for a build out, I wanted to be able to have a system that achieved the following:
- Ability to keep one rear jump seat installed/fold down in the event I had to accommodate another passenger (friends in town, events, etc)
- Ability to have a flat surface to accommodate 1-2 overnight guests, or my own ability to stay in the truck a night or two if needed
- Room for storage for various items – a fridge, tools, firearms, and other equipment at a minimum

Here is my Drawer Set-Up Shopping List
- 2 x sheet of ¾” Plywood (went with cabinet grade oak)
- All slide hardware from McMaster Car
o 500lb lock-in/lock-out slides (Don’t actually lock out!)- for Fridge
o 250lb Accuride Slides (Utility drawer)
o 75lb Accuride Slides (Cooktop storage drawer)
o 75lb Accuride Slides (Cooktop station)
- 8 x Surface mount D-Rings (for fastening to truck, as well as securing goods in transport)
- 6 x fully expandable hinges
- 4 x U-bolts for securing fridge to platform
- 3x handles
- 1 x clasp for non-locking drawers
- 1 x bottle opener
- 4x mid-size 90* angle iron for wing supports
- 4x small 90* angle iron for support while building
- 4x turnbuckles (fasten between drawers and factory seat supports)
- Various screws (1/2”, 1 5/8”, 2”)

The start was to build a utility station for camping trips. This would include a fridge slide, cooker storage, and workstation. Borrowed some of this from nickswan (Homebrew fridge/stove slide combo).

And so it began… I spent some time planning in the garage, measuring, etc.




I started framing the basic structure to make sure I was happy with it. Goal was to have the seats extend all the way up, and still make maximum use of the storage areas.




I recessed the front access point to build a larger storage space up front. I lost some drawer space, but no big deal since I wanted just enough to store the camp stove in it. The front storage bin is now home to a toaster, bread, chips, keurig, etc as they are well protected.




Continued with building of the drawers... making sure they nested without issue.



I built the top pull out for the fridge 3” taller just to be big enough to accommodate the drawer slides. With this, there is also good storage space for other items (silverware, camp cookware, etc.)



First test run! 45L Norcold fit well, even though it is higher than most set-ups, as there is enough clearance.



Like a glove!




I used some cardboard to make some templates, cut out the wing, rounded edges with router for better fit, and no sharp edges. Also ran pieces of thin ¼ ply to help prevent the fridge slide from rubbing/tugging anything stored on wing or other side.



The 2nd (drivers side) drawer was thrown together in about 3.5 hours since I was trying to get it done the night before a winery/camping trip. Very basic, just some good storage space.

I used a simple recessed latch to secure the drawer, along with a turnbuckle at the front. For anyone considering it, I’ve found that keeping this a simple platform, without a wing, is the most effective storage solution for “odds and ends” to go in the wheel well portion.




I decided to add slats that I could reorganize based on the components that were going in, giving additional flexibility to this storage solution, using a radial arm saw.




I tie both of the boxes together using just a simple hidden nut (J-nut). Its worked well thus far.




I used simple surface mount D-rings (screws still have to be swapped out with bolts) and turnbuckles. They kept getting in the way so I modified an old plastic cable hook to secure them.




Here the are side by side. One item you should note is the ¼” plywood that runs each side to cover the platform for the fridge. This was a nice way to make sure that anything stacked on either side didn’t come pulling out with it each time the drawer went in/out.




While the eventual goal may be to go with a M416 trailer, I went with a RTT and awning in the interim, for which the tent can later go on the trailer.

I purchased a TJM, given that it was a SWEET package deal with the tent (from British 4x4 Outfitters) drop shipped from TJM. I kept working this night to rig up some mounting for the awning.

I used simple galvanized angle iron from Home Depot (I think from their roofing section), along with one bolt (drilled through the Thule Bar) and two u-bolts per mount. Not the prettiest, but you cant see them. Have also held up well with over 1000 miles of 70+mph on them.




The tent went on smoothly as well. I will say that the biggest PIA with this is getting the U-Bolts on with the load bars. In a perfect world, line it up on saw horses, have an extra set of hands, and you can probably do it in 15 minutes as opposed to my 45, doing it alone, in the dark, with neighbors staring out their windows….

 
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DJWUZJ Contd.... Electrical Goodies

Next up was adding my electrical system (which continues to evolve). Here is the shopping list, followed by illustrations/explanations.
Electrical Shopping List
• IBS-DBS Kit (note: includes awesome battery terminals
• 16’ 2 AWG Red Marine Battery Cable
• 16’ 2 AWG Black Marine Battery Cable
• 15’ Red and Black 14 AWG Primary
• 1’ 10 AWG Yellow Primary 11 x 2AWG Tinned Battery Lug
• 10 x 14 AWG loop terminal connector
• 6 x 14 AWG female terminal connector
• 2 x Red Terminal Boots
• 2 x Black Terminal Boots
• 2 x Blue Sea 12V outlets
• 1 x Two Post Line Junction
• 1 x Blue Sea 6 fuse box w/ grounds
• 1 x 2 pin 14 AWG trailer quick disconnect (for Fridge Plug)
• 1 x 200A Blue Sea Breaker (Main breaker near battery)
• 1 x 150A Blue Sea Breaker (Dedicated inverter breaker)
• 1 x 80A Blue Sea Breaker (Dedicated Fuse Box Breaker)
• Various sizes of heat shrink wrap
• Various zip ties and line secure pieces
• Fire Rated Braided Expandable Wire Sleeve (for main cables and inverter cable)
• Various 5A, 10A, and 20A fuses for low voltage sockets, and fridge
• Bestek 1000W inverter (Amazon buy)
• Norcold NRF 45 (Amazon Buy)
• Slee Aux Battery Tray
• Die Hard Platinum Marine Group 34 (if using in conjunction with Slee Tray, you will also need new battery clamps, as the included rods are about 1” too short)
• White Flexible LED Ribbon Light (Mounts under awning, and other areas where may be needed)
• Panel mount switch (for controlling ribbon lights)
• LED indicator light (runs from fuse box to illustrate power is active to rear)

There are few projects I hate… but electrical is one of them. I took what I knew from work on a M35A2 that a friend of mine and I added an independent 12v system for, did some more homework, and cooked up the following…
I went with a Diehard Platnium Marine Group 35 Battery, on a Slee Tray, and IBS System. The tray is great for not only the battery, but also mounting a 200A breaker, and the IBS Relay. Buyer beware… add longer J-bolts to your shopping list since Slee’s are too short for this battery.




The IBS system was surprisingly simple to do. In all, it took about 2 hours for this novice to do. Add on another 30 minutes for the re-work I did with better organizing and wrapping wires later on.
All components are professionally delivered. This system came from Sierra Expeditions.




For mounting, it was already midnight, so I threw two screws in the lower part of the dash, and its been there ever since. The thought of seeing an electrical project completed (SUCCESSFULLY) at 1AM on a week night was amazing… photo worthy.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/97090426@N04/8971712965/" title="IMG_1193 by DJWExpo, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3712/8971712965_2f9407079a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1193"></a>

As for the separate power systems, I ran a cable over the passenger side frame, and up through a drain plug in the back before sealing with silicone. This then follows the wheel well, where it joins a 12V post for distribution. All main cords came from Genuine Dealz and is wrapped in their fireproof wrap for extra protection – good stuff.




From here, it ties into the board of breakers and fuse box that distribute power. As you’ll see, the first box goes to the 1000w inverter (150A) and the second is an 80A to power the fuse box. The di-pole plug below was a nice pickup from Autozone to help power the Norcold Fridge



Good access, but tricky to get into the breakers… still requires pulling back the panel a bit, but overall good enough for me since I don’t mess with them much.




I only ran 2 12v car outlets for power, but also added another 12v plug-in type outlet for the LED lighting (more to follow)

After the first night of camping, I decided that there had to be a better solution for music than playing an iphone through a small portable USB powered speaker… so I went to the drawing board and this was born:
Shopping List
- ½” 2’ x 4’ plywood
- 200w 2 ch Pyle Marine Grade amp + speakers
- 2x Blue sea outlet, cord, etc. (inlet and outlet)
- LED indicator
- Inline fuse
- Various wires/cables
- Positive and negative bus bars
- Foam corner guards




Front includes the input jack, controls, and speakers. In/outs are on opposite ends. I routered out a rear panel for future access if needed. The foam is furniture guard that was intended for furniture, but does a good job of protecting it/making it skid proof, adding a little more to it for form and function.

 
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DJWUZJ Build... Contd...Putting it all together

Again, I was in a mad dash to help get everything together before a weekend camping trip with friends, that I didn’t take many photos, but here is a good wrap-up/synopsis to date with how it sets after the preceding steps, and what I’ve done to improve it since then…

I was stoked when the tent showed up. She now sits on the truck, using two Thule Load Bars, on factory rack. My girlfriend and I have spent 2 nights up there so far, without issue… will keep updating should anything change.

















A late addition was an LED light strip down the back side of the awning. Gives some good camp light…



Here she is ascending on the Peters Gap trail of the GW National Forest, outside of Edinburg, VA




Deployed tent & awning



Nighttime shot

 
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Nice build!
 
Love the drawers!

I really like the drawer design. Can't beat that 3/4" plywood!
 
The weight between the drawers and RTT were starting to add up... To the point that the rear would sag a full inch with the OME 865's in there. I went ahead and picked up a set of 866's from Slee to counteract saggy booty.

While I haven't loaded up the truck yet, I can say that there is no overly difference in ride quality. I'm hoping that it handles corners a little better with the weight as well.

In all, it's a good 1 hr project to knock out. Here is a comparison of the 865 vs 866... Lots more coils!

image-1108575826.jpg
 
Added the Front Runner 2.2, along with roof tent mounts, expedition bars, rubber inserts, and my modified homemade awning mounts.

In hind sight, I wish I had picked up some of the Rhino mounts for awnings. Not sure if it will fit my TJM awning, but totally better than the mangled pieces of galvanized steel I have holding it up now to get her where she needs to be.

While Front Runner claims a 1.5 hr install time, my experience was closer to 3... I'll blame it on tight quarters and an arthritic wrist!

image-2875225261.jpg


image-209973032.jpg


image-1395905474.jpg
 
While there are lots of ways to add light under your rear hatch, I think this method is overlooked as one of the easier, cheapest and most effective. This is the same way I added light under my awning...

I picked up a roll of LED tape light from Amazon (3 different shades of white in all... Highly recommend staying away from the "warm white")

The strip of lights run at the bottom of the rear window. i ran some cables through the molding, then through the rubber grommet, through a switch and then to my aux fuse box. Here is the result:

image-1131254831.jpg
 
Those are the plain Jane "white".


After some reading, it looks like "cool white" throws more light. I had some on there but they mysteriously crapped the bed. I had just enough to do my awning with what was left... Will see if I can get some from an angle to compare.
 
Amazon.com... Stuff is cheap too. In all, about a $15 project with switch and leftover 18ga cable.

I love amazon! And I can't wait to see your truck to get some ideas! I love light! I want my truck to light up the world when I want it too!
 
Bilstein Breakage and Fox Install

While heading down Black Bear Pass, I all of a sudden had a massive clunking sound (along the steps before the big decent). At first, I thought the driveline was bound up, or I broke a sway bar. It wasnt until after getting down to the falls that I thought to reach up and grab the rear passenger Bilstein Shock. Sure enough, the threads were all but disintegrated, and had been pounding around with every flex of the suspension.

As luck would have it, two days prior I ended up winning a nice CVT Awning and Changing Room at the raffle for the 3rd Annual 100's In The Hills, that I traded Garcia for his Fox Shox. (Shout out to BlueCruiser for being the Fox hookup).

By the time we got to Kansas City, I couldnt take it any more... stopped at a Midas for them to torch out the prior Bilstein Upper, and install the new Fox's in the rear.

The ride difference with just the rears is AMAZING. I took CruiserHead05 for a ride yesterday and his response was "it feels like my truck" which is running a stock suspension. This is exceptional, especially given that my truck is sitting on OME 866's.

I'm hoping to get the fronts installed next week, and will do a full review soon after.

From the experience thus far, these things are killer. I think its the closest you can get to feeling like you're in a Caddy with this set-up. The worst part is that you cant see much of these, and they're too damn sexy to be hidden!

Once I make my call to Bilstein, I'll have 5 shocks (3 used, 2 new) up for grabs :)

Fox vs. Bilsteins.jpg
 
Good to hear!!! That shock deal really worked out for you. Cool.
 
Awesome to hear the shocks worked out too. You've got a great setup!
 

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