M416 (re)build/modification (1 Viewer)

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Aug 4, 2012
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Location
Fairfax, VA
After lugging my RTT, and all of my gear around in the 100 series... I quickly decided that I wanted to get the weight off the top, and decrease the wind resistance of a brick on top of a brick.

I researched, scoured high and low, before finally finding the perfect candidate: a 1967 M416. I picked it up for $750 - so the price was right and I knew I'd be happy with having this as my canvas.

6 months later... It was time to go to work. I rolled the axle out from under it, and started to clean her up.
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The PO did a sloppy job painting it with Latex. A friend and I did a M35A2 two years prior, and was much cleaner... apparently he didnt read that rollers spread more evenly than a brush.

I cleaned up the frame with a wire brush on angle grinder, and similar tools for drills, knocking away scale, loose dirt, etc. I then applied Krud Cutters "The Must for Rust." The jury is out on this.

I hosed her down, applied TSP-Substitute spray, hosed it again, and then applied a product that has done well by me - Eastwood's Rubberized Rust Encapsulator. I sprayed some rock damage on the Hundy last year and its been great. Should do the trick for this.

The next task was to sand, sand some more, apply primer filler, and sand some more before I gave up.... its not going to be a beauty queen.
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I called up Redneck Trailer Supply and ordered up a Dexter Axle.

The specs I asked for were
59" wide
38" spring on center
electric brakes
5x5
SOA.

Because I went a bit wider, it lowered the capacity to 3150#... no big deal. RTS must have assumed I only had 3-4 leafs, so the bolts were short. I ran to autozone and got a set of 2 1/2" ID, 6 1/2" long u-bolts to bolt up the axle.

When wiring the axle, polarity doesnt matter for Dexter axles. There are two leads (both white) so wire however you please.
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Months ago I also ordered a set of adapters that are 1" wide, and go from 5x5 to 5x150 to accommodate 98+ Land Cruiser/07+ Tundra wheels. The axle comes with lug nuts, which were 13/16, which is a tight fit to get in there. I applied loctite and torqued to 90ft/lbs before adding the Tundra wheels/tires I also picked up on craigslist.
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The wheel/tire clearance is perfect. It tracks about 6" narrower than the Land Cruiser with this set-up with 255/70R18 tires. She will get hand me downs next weekend when the tow rig gets new shoes.
 
I'm using a ConnTek 7 Blade Junction box - very high quality, lots of grommets, and fits snug. I mounted a bar on the tongue to support this, and wired up a set of LED tail lights. After learning how to wire trailer leads, she lit up like a slot machine.
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After the axle was plugged in, and she was rolling, I leveled it out and took some measurements:
- Floor to top lip of trailer = 48"
- Bottom of ball mount = 29"
- Outside of tub to outside of tire = 14"

My plan is to have a rack that raises another 18-24" to be able to get under it in the annex. I'm meeting with a fabricator on this next week to have it thrown together.

I started to regret the SOA, but that lasted about 30 seconds.

Factory tow hitch on lifted truck is 17" to the same point. She will ride super low in the front now, but here is how she will be level again:
- New rear bumper with integrated tow hitch= +~4"
- New 34" tires on truck and 15mm lift = +~1"
- Max Coupler mounted on inverted 2" drop = +~2"
- Tongue extension mounted under current tongue = +~3"

With all of these, it should work out to be within an inch of being level.
 
Nice work.:beer:

So, custom fenders next or ?
 
Thanks @greentruck! Yes, taking her out to a fabricator for new fenders (lower given SOA), and a tent lift. Should have that done in the next few weeks.

In the meantime, I've also modeled up my drawer system that will ride on top using some graph paper and paint. Will be figuring out materials, etc, and will report back as it progresses.
Trailer Mock Up1.jpg

This is actually the first model I built of something like this... will definitely keep in mind for the future - really coming together now.
 
Dropped the trailer off at the fabricator last week... Getting fenders, cross member supports for slides, and a Tent lift, along with some more goodies.

Max Coupler is on order.

Old lady is headed out of town after Memorial Day for the weekend... Will be a prime opportunity to make some progress!
 
Trailer drawers are about 80% done. Trailer itself is due back from the fabricator this week.
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Game plan is to mount the drawers for finish work... Fine tuning hinges and latches.

To do list:
PVC frame for vinyl canopy
Plumbing for water system
Finish electrical work
Paint trailer
Install roof top tent

Goal is to have it ready for a shake down over 4th of July weekend... Then wrap up anything else before Hundreds in the Hills!
 
Wow, that drawer system is great!!!

Will you still have space inside the trailer for extra gear, duffel bags, tent, camp chairs, etc. Fridge in the trailer or still in the back of the truck? Do you already have the RTT or is that on the purchase list?

Very nicely done, hope you can get it done in time!
 
Thanks @fireball !

Yes, yes and yes. The drawers will sit on top of the trailer itself, on steel plate rails. This will allow them to roll out for access, and then tuck back inside. My only concern now is weight and center of gravity. Structurally, I will likely shore up the frame of the trailer. As far as lowering the center of gravity, I will have 100lbs of wheel/tire, 100lbs of battery, and 250lbs of water to play with.

All goods will store under the drawers, in the trailer. The drawers are only 34" wide, so I still have 28" of access at the rear. RTT is already in possession. Will be nice to keep that on the trailer 24/7. This should make sense when I get it back and will post up then.

I'll keep the fridge in the truck, but everything else in the trailer... May even redesign the truck drawers given the new storage options!
 
Sorry to hear about your injury DJ. At least this way you get some chair time to run over all your planned mods for the 1000th time (you're clearly detail oriented).

May even redesign the truck drawers given the new storage options!

Does this mean your old drawers are up for grabs?!? Still drooling over those.
 
Sorry to hear about your injury DJ. At least this way you get some chair time to run over all your planned mods for the 1000th time (you're clearly detail oriented).



Does this mean your old drawers are up for grabs?!? Still drooling over those.

LOL - No, going to hang onto them, plus shipping your way would be insane. For the cost to ship, you might as well get yourself a Trexxbox.

Building drawers is actually super easy. The one tool I wish I had the first time around is a pocket hole jig. It made the trailer drawers go together like a breeze - no worries of splitting ply, etc. As long as your cuts are good, these create a great finishing touch with zero exposed screws on my build.
 

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