What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (81 Viewers)

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Putting the 80 to work. Losing approximately 5000' in elevation certainly helps.

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BTDT! šŸ˜‚
 
There was discussion in the thread below about doing a 1A Diode in place of the 7.5A fuse for the alternator to increase the ability of your factory alternator.

1A Diode

I just ran a 2 gauge wire from the positive side of the starting battery to the alternator. I checked voltage with the LC running. The starting battery was just over 14 volts, the house battery was 12.7 with out the Blue Sea ML-ACR on, with the ML-ACR on it was over 13 volts. So for now I will go with this as I am happy with the results and the LC idles smoother as well.
Did you just replace the 7.5amp fuse with the diode like it was done in the video? (in the thread you linked to) Do you have AGM batteries or do you just want more voltage to your starter battery?
 
Did you just replace the 7.5amp fuse with the diode like it was done in the video? (in the thread you linked to) Do you have AGM batteries or do you just want more voltage to your starter battery?
I in fact did not replace the 7.5 AMP fuse. I just ran a 2 gauge wire directly from the alternator to the starting battery. Once the Blue Sea ML-ACR kicks on the house battery sees over 13 volts charging.
 
I've yet to take a long trip in 80 without some issues.

This trip? Cc stopped working. Lights on. No cruise.

I'll look into it when I get back
 
I've yet to take a long trip in 80 without some issues.

This trip? Cc stopped working. Lights on. No cruise.

I'll look into it when I get back
From the archives of IH8MUD. Maybe you can get lucky and have a 30 minute fix.

 
Haven't had much time to get away from work but we had one weekend that the family could go do something before heading back to school etc. So we took off to Moab for a few days. Of course I didn't get more than a few photos of the 80. But got a gazillion photos of my oldest on his first real wheeling trip in his 1980 Minitruck. He's put a lot of work into it (even though it isn't a beauty queen) and it all paid off. Truck worked perfectly in Moab and it was awesome to see my son's confidence grow minute by minute with the truck. Good times.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Learning to trust his spotter. :)
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I was jealous of my son's 26mpg on the trip with the 3RZ. But I did manage to get 15mpg on the 4 hour drive home. I'll take it.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
From the archives of IH8MUD. Maybe you can get lucky and have a 30 minute fix.



I looked into it. I suspect my reed sensor failed.

When I jumper the posts on the data link I get a rapid blinking. No code.

I'll use the fsm and troubleshoot after my trip.
 
Check your rear fenders and seat anchors. My truck is a Colorado truck and considered rust ā€œfree.ā€ But the wheel well coating failed and let water into the cavity between the sheet metal and the seat anchor plate. So here we are:

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tell me more about the process you used. My engine bay needs a serious cleaning.
More details on your process? How long did that take?

Happy to help!

I drew inspiration from the YouTube channel Legit Steet Cars in which the host often cleans their engines in a similar manner.

Supplies:
- "The Purple Stuff"
- A round brush
- Gunk Engine Protector
- One of those microfiber towels with a coarse side
- Garden hose (not pictured)
- Eye protection (Do NOT get "The Purple Stuff" in your eyes - I cannot stress this enough)
- Gloves
- Plastic bags

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I started out by covering the distributor and battery with some bags. As I wasn't using a pressure washer or spraying directly at it, I left the alternator exposed.

Next was thorough application of degreaser, followed by gentle agitation with the brush. Don't need to use a ton of pressure, just loosen everything up and let those harsh chemicals do their job. Once everything is degreased and scrubbed, follow that up with the garden hose with a tight fan spray pattern. The goal isn't to pressure wash but rather rinse all the degreaser away and the schmoo with it. I did this process twice, as I missed a bunch of spots the first time around and some of that filth was really caked on.

After the second degrease/scrub/rinse cycle I patted everything dry with the towel, removed the plastic bags, and wiped off the distributor and battery with the now damp towel. That was followed up with a thorough application of the engine protector stuff and another wipe down.

All in all the end result seen took me about 45 minutes.

Once everything was done I fired it up, let it idle for a few minutes while I cleaned up, then drove it for a bit to bring it all up to temperature and evaporate any lingering water.

This was intended to be more of a functional clean over a full detail, there are a bunch of places I could have done better but didn't feel like putting in the elbow grease. I understand there are a lot of different methods and products available, this is just how I did it.
 
Happy to help!

I drew inspiration from the YouTube channel Legit Steet Cars in which the host often cleans their engines in a similar manner.

Supplies:
- "The Purple Stuff"
- A round brush
- Gunk Engine Protector
- One of those microfiber towels with a coarse side
- Garden hose (not pictured)
- Eye protection (Do NOT get "The Purple Stuff" in your eyes - I cannot stress this enough)
- Gloves
- Plastic bags

View attachment 3394519

I started out by covering the distributor and battery with some bags. As I wasn't using a pressure washer or spraying directly at it, I left the alternator exposed.

Next was thorough application of degreaser, followed by gentle agitation with the brush. Don't need to use a ton of pressure, just loosen everything up and let those harsh chemicals do their job. Once everything is degreased and scrubbed, follow that up with the garden hose with a tight fan spray pattern. The goal isn't to pressure wash but rather rinse all the degreaser away and the schmoo with it. I did this process twice, as I missed a bunch of spots the first time around and some of that filth was really caked on.

After the second degrease/scrub/rinse cycle I patted everything dry with the towel, removed the plastic bags, and wiped off the distributor and battery with the now damp towel. That was followed up with a thorough application of the engine protector stuff and another wipe down.

All in all the end result seen took me about 45 minutes.

Once everything was done I fired it up, let it idle for a few minutes while I cleaned up, then drove it for a bit to bring it all up to temperature and evaporate any lingering water.

This was intended to be more of a functional clean over a full detail, there are a bunch of places I could have done better but didn't feel like putting in the elbow grease. I understand there are a lot of different methods and products available, this is just how I did it.
Thank you. I'm not looking for detailing instructions, just a good cleaning process and this is perfect. Thanks for the response.
 
Check your rear fenders and seat anchors. My truck is a Colorado truck and considered rust ā€œfree.ā€ But the wheel well coating failed and let water into the cavity between the sheet metal and the seat anchor plate. So here we are:

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Yep, I think this might be going on on my HDJ81. Not sure what I should do other than see about getting it fixed.
 
How do you use the telescoping rod to check toe? The measurement from tire to tire in the rear is 1/8ā€ more than in the front?
1/8ā€ less in tire front for slight toe-in.
 
At what distance?
Just pick the same spot on the tire front and rear. Itā€™s easy to go 3 and 9 oā€™clock and from the widest part (I have that pic of the rod in the initial post) instead of the tread. If you have a tread design with a uniform outer lug that works, but most modern offroad tires donā€™t.

Using the telescoping rod is much easier than trying to use a tape measure where you need 2 people and it bends. The 1/8ā€ isnā€™t a rocket science measurement for a larger size - Iā€™ve run it like this forever without any premature wear and the slight toe-in improves tracking in a condition where caster is on the lower end for taller lifts.

My TRE werenā€™t damaged and I ended back up with a perfectly centered steering wheel so I knew it was where I had it before. With 38ā€™s I didnā€™t feel the need to be overly specific about the radius, just out towards the edge.
 
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