What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (77 Viewers)

[Dubbinchris]

Just pick the same spot on the tire front and rear. It’s easy to go 3 and 9 o’clock and from the widest part (I have that pic of the rod in the initial post) instead of the tread. If you have a tread design with a uniform outer lug that works, but most modern offroad tires don’t.

Using the telescoping rod is much easier than trying to use a tape measure where you need 2 people and it bends. The 1/8” isn’t a rocket science measurement for a larger size - I’ve run it like this forever without any premature wear and the slight toe-in improves tracking in a condition where caster is on the lower end for taller lifts.

My TRE weren’t damaged and I ended back up with a perfectly centered steering wheel so I knew it was where I had it before. With 38’s I didn’t feel the need to be overly specific about the radius, just out towards the edge.

1/8” at 1 foot out is going to 1/2 the toe in of 1/8” at 2 feet out and so on which is why I asked. I understand the method mostly as degrees of toe in aren’t affected by the distance or length of the rods are too hard to measure accurately so my math brain kicked in.

 

[BILT4ME]

1/8” at 1 foot out is going to 1/2 the toe in of 1/8” at 2 feet out and so on which is why I asked. I understand the method mostly as degrees of toe in aren’t affected by the distance or length of the rods are too hard to measure accurately so my math brain kicked in.

Actually, the correct measurement for proper toe-in on a solid axle front is 1/8" per MILE.

This is from the old school alignment shops for 4WD. They used to align these by tire scuff pads.

This is why I have an actual alignment shop check my toe-in.

This method will get you close enough to drive it, but you will have massive wear if you DD it.

 

[Nay]

Actually, the correct measurement for proper toe-in on a solid axle front is 1/8" per MILE.

This is from the old school alignment shops for 4WD. They used to align these by tire scuff pads.

This is why I have an actual alignment shop check my toe-in.

This method will get you close enough to drive it, but you will have massive wear if you DD it.

It’s still 1/8” for a mile . I’ve run it exactly like this since 2010, 150K miles. Ideally you’d use the tread for a longer radius, but I was setting it back to where it was with the TRE’s I removed - tierod to radius arm scuffs, centered steering wheel and all - and those maths checked out.

I had 42K on a set of 37” K02 with zero cupping or irregular wear - good enough shape with 8/32” tread that I was able to sell them for $400. Anybody who wants to do the at home stuff can take 1/8” down to however you measure hairs and the logic holds.

I also risk MUD death by not turning my 80 into a brick with high tire pressure and other assorted math offenses. Except for longer panhards to center the axles. You can’t cheat Pythagoras.

But you could use the telescoping rod to just barely have any toe-in (1/64” would be just as easy to do as 1/8”), that’s why it’s a good hack you can’t do with a tape measure. I think if you aren’t seeing any irregular wear you can be liberal with factory specs. I’m probably near 0 degrees caster at 5.5” of lift and it doesn’t wander.

 

[BILT4ME]

It’s still 1/8” for a mile . I’ve run it exactly like this since 2010, 150K miles. Ideally you’d use the tread for a longer radius, but I was setting it back to where it was with the TRE’s I removed - tierod to radius arm scuffs, centered steering wheel and all - and those maths checked out.

I had 42K on a set of 37” K02 with zero cupping or irregular wear - good enough shape with 8/32” tread that I was able to sell them for $400. Anybody who wants to do the at home stuff can take 1/8” down to however you measure hairs and the logic holds.

I also risk MUD death by not turning my 80 into a brick with high tire pressure and other assorted math offenses. Except for longer panhards to center the axles. You can’t cheat Pythagoras.

But you could use the telescoping rod to just barely have any toe-in (1/64” would be just as easy to do as 1/8”), that’s why it’s a good hack you can’t do with a tape measure. I think if you aren’t seeing any irregular wear you can be liberal with factory specs. I’m probably near 0 degrees caster at 5.5” of lift and it doesn’t wander.

It's OK to do it how you like.

I got 95,000 miles out of my last set of GY Duratracs.
For me, it's worth $100 at an alignment shop to get an extra 40,000 miles on a set of tires.
I put on about 20,000 miles each year, driving between malls and Starbucks.....

 

[Dusten]

18.9 mpg's on the first tank of the road trip. 65-75 highway speeds for about half the tank.
2 lane 45-55 for the second half except for about 2 hours playing in the sand and running the winch for dipshits.

 

[lasoundguy]

Got out camping with the kids.

Living up to the license plate!

 

[DirtyPepper]

Broke out the purple stuff.

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I didn't need it to be showroom perfect but I also didn't want all that dust and schmoo affecting heat dissipation. I love how easy these engine bays are to clean.

Did you just spray, let it set/soak, and then pressure wash while running?

 

[DirtyPepper]

Happy to help!

I drew inspiration from the YouTube channel Legit Steet Cars in which the host often cleans their engines in a similar manner.

Supplies:
- "The Purple Stuff"
- A round brush
- Gunk Engine Protector
- One of those microfiber towels with a coarse side
- Garden hose (not pictured)
- Eye protection (Do NOT get "The Purple Stuff" in your eyes - I cannot stress this enough)
- Gloves
- Plastic bags

View attachment 3394519

I started out by covering the distributor and battery with some bags. As I wasn't using a pressure washer or spraying directly at it, I left the alternator exposed.

Next was thorough application of degreaser, followed by gentle agitation with the brush. Don't need to use a ton of pressure, just loosen everything up and let those harsh chemicals do their job. Once everything is degreased and scrubbed, follow that up with the garden hose with a tight fan spray pattern. The goal isn't to pressure wash but rather rinse all the degreaser away and the schmoo with it. I did this process twice, as I missed a bunch of spots the first time around and some of that filth was really caked on.

After the second degrease/scrub/rinse cycle I patted everything dry with the towel, removed the plastic bags, and wiped off the distributor and battery with the now damp towel. That was followed up with a thorough application of the engine protector stuff and another wipe down.

All in all the end result seen took me about 45 minutes.

Once everything was done I fired it up, let it idle for a few minutes while I cleaned up, then drove it for a bit to bring it all up to temperature and evaporate any lingering water.

This was intended to be more of a functional clean over a full detail, there are a bunch of places I could have done better but didn't feel like putting in the elbow grease. I understand there are a lot of different methods and products available, this is just how I did it.

Thanks for the write up!
Been meaning to clean mine also...this helps a bit, process wise.
I remember cleaning my Dodge Power Wagon when i was a kid and covering the distributor...that I remember

 

[COYS]

Refreshing the Clearplex and XPEL 20% everywhere but windshield at 70%. It’s only getting hotter!

 

[Nay]

It's OK to do it how you like.

I got 95,000 miles out of my last set of GY Duratracs.
For me, it's worth $100 at an alignment shop to get an extra 40,000 miles on a set of tires.
I put on about 20,000 miles each year, driving between malls and Starbucks.....

I used to put on 20K year skiing etc and that‘s why I had the KO2. I’d have gotten 60K out of them except I wanted to go back to a proper sized tire and retired the 80 from family duty.

The point being that 60K is the rated lifespan of the tire in any size, and off-road use will generally preclude 100,000 mile replacement intervals. So that’s a good thing for folks to know who are spending twice as much to fit big tires on small lifts as it would cost to have a much bigger lift that drives ‘in spec’ from a road manners perspective if not from a FSM perspective.

The 80 is obnoxiously stable, you have a lot to work with in managing the lift amount these rigs need to the alignment of large tires. I don’t have any fender trimming inner or outer and I run 38’s with perfect fitment on stock radius arms that I have not notched for a larger OD DOM tierod. There are things we can do with these rigs that are very unique without abandoning the factory design or parts.

 

[80sgirl]

Had a blast wheeling in Ouray with @DangerNoodle, @raisinhell2, @SHELLBACK, @Muddy Feet @80sgirl, @sogncab, @fjdiesel and @Broski View attachment 3394756View attachment 3394757View attachment 3394764View attachment 3394754

Yes! So much fun with you guys!

 

[Feldrian]

Took a stroll in the woods

Dropping off the boulder on the right was interesting.

One of the XJs with us decided to honor @jcardona1 and break both arms at once.

 

[jcardona1]

Took a stroll in the woods
View attachment 3395224
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Dropping off the boulder on the right was interesting.

One of the XJs with us decided to honor @jcardona1 and break both arms at once.
View attachment 3395215

Oof, that looks fun! Were you guys able to get it fixed on the trail?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Lacking oil changes but internals look good so far. This is one of the few ones I have torn down that did not have a blown head gasket.

 

[Bryanseye]

Goodbye Amazon garbage. These PO installed Hella knockoffs sounded worse than an 80’s stock tone. Grabbed these from a junkyard Sequoia.

 

[Dusten]

Goodbye Amazon garbage. These PO installed Hella knockoffs sounded worse than an 80’s stock tone. Grabbed these from a junkyard Sequoia.
View attachment 3395486

Looks like the horn on my Datsun. It's so high pitched

 

[Feldrian]

Oof, that looks fun! Were you guys able to get it fixed on the trail?

Yeah, we started cannibalizing links off another XJ with us just to get the broken rig back to the trailer when another wheeler in an XJ came by, mentioned he had a spare set in his garage 20 min away and called his girlfriend to grab them and bring them up. He actually fixed it on the trail and wheeled out the rest of the day with us.

Sketchy fix though. The truck was stuck coming out of a tank trap at a precarious angle. Glad I wasn't the one working under there. I supervised with a safety line on

 

[nigelsiam]

I've yet to take a long trip in 80 without some issues.

This trip? Cc stopped working. Lights on. No cruise.

I'll look into it when I get back

Did you check if you have a blown brake light?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Torn down and looks amazing even with the burnt Oil on everything. This truck had 270k on it and barely smoked on start up( valve guide seals) it’s gonna get a full rebuild. The bearings even looked new. Cross hatching was Present and no markings on the piston skirts.

 

[Fj80oregon]

more pics and when your ordering bearing crankshaft or rod bearings they are keyed to your crank. There is numbers stamped on the side of each bearing, you order up the correct ones and still have the tight tolerance Toyota intended.