Yeah, 95-97 have a less substantial mounting system (no big plate piece up front and attach to the radius arm with a band).
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (45 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Rear heater bypassed with kit from Wits End @NLXTACY. One day I'll probably add the rear heater back but until then this will do.
Power steering pump replaced w/ new OEM (classic leak from the rear section). And all lines to/from the pump and reservoir replaced. someone had been in there before me and replaced the big hose from the reservoir but the rest were original and very hard. I replaced them with Wits End @NLXTACY hoses but discovered the factory spring clamps won't grab the hoses tightly, as I guess the hoses have a slightly smaller OD. Had to use worm clamps from Napa to snug everything up. The hardline I replaced with the Rein part from Rockauto. 1/2" cordless impact and a 2-jaw puller made quick work of the gear and nut.
Rear washer diverter replaced. Took about a minute of pumping for anything to come out the rear nozzles, making me question whether a $45 part was the fix, but when the blue stuff started pouring down the back glass I was overjoyed.
Checked the torque on my knuckle nuts. All good. Those backing plates don't make it easy.
and new keys from @ToyotaMatt. took a few minutes to free up the hatch lock w/ a couple shot of graphite spray but now I have keys which operate ALL locks in the truck...including the hatch and glovebox. the old keys i had were either too worn down or a valet key. the new key even turns the drivers door lock better. i used to have to fiddle with it to lock the truck, but now a quick left turn and all is good.
Power steering pump replaced w/ new OEM (classic leak from the rear section). And all lines to/from the pump and reservoir replaced. someone had been in there before me and replaced the big hose from the reservoir but the rest were original and very hard. I replaced them with Wits End @NLXTACY hoses but discovered the factory spring clamps won't grab the hoses tightly, as I guess the hoses have a slightly smaller OD. Had to use worm clamps from Napa to snug everything up. The hardline I replaced with the Rein part from Rockauto. 1/2" cordless impact and a 2-jaw puller made quick work of the gear and nut.
Rear washer diverter replaced. Took about a minute of pumping for anything to come out the rear nozzles, making me question whether a $45 part was the fix, but when the blue stuff started pouring down the back glass I was overjoyed.
Checked the torque on my knuckle nuts. All good. Those backing plates don't make it easy.
and new keys from @ToyotaMatt. took a few minutes to free up the hatch lock w/ a couple shot of graphite spray but now I have keys which operate ALL locks in the truck...including the hatch and glovebox. the old keys i had were either too worn down or a valet key. the new key even turns the drivers door lock better. i used to have to fiddle with it to lock the truck, but now a quick left turn and all is good.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
We now have party mode!
Mic tuning Bluetooth controlled so I only had to connect to power and zip tie in place.
Honestly these are added just incase there is a night run.
Recommend by wheeleveryweekend
Mic tuning Bluetooth controlled so I only had to connect to power and zip tie in place.
Honestly these are added just incase there is a night run.
Recommend by wheeleveryweekend
Very close in geography. I was actually in the Dells Region just south east of Lake Petenwell. They are doing some Oak Savana restoration in a designated natural area. This means temporary access and skid steer tracks to play in
I am looking for a driftless area spot to explore. Once i find one ill post up on the Minnesota Overlanders FB page
Most of MN overland and 4x4 is generally in the north from what I can tell.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 4,475
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
After changing from ome to dobbs springs, the steering wheel was pointing roughly at 11 o'clock when going straight. So, undid the clamps on the drag link and the DS rotated easily, the PS required a pipe wrench and crescent to break free and rotate. Took about 1 complete turn to get the steering wheel to go from 11 o'clock to 12 o'clock. Rotate as per the picture to adjust the steering wheel clockwise.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
Finally got back out wheeling again after being down for repairs and upgrades for a couple of months. The new tx case gears on the high and low side made a huge difference with the 37" tires. So much more controllable on obstacles and being able to do descents without riding the brake was nice too. DC front driveshaft was added and new downpipe and CAT so less vibes and no more sound of angry bees on the highway as the CAT inners would resonate at certain rpm.
Found some hiccups on the shakedown run ... tx case was popping out of gear when I would come off throttle hard. Used a bungee to hold it down and that worked fine, but not sure if the gears need to wear in a bit or it there is some kind of adjustment that can be made to the selector shaft? Also found that I ruined one of the bushings on the rear panhard. Wheel it, break it, fix or upgrade it ... wash, rinse, and repeat.
Not prime season in central PA, but still a nice drive to Rausch Creek.
![20211114_074330[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20211114_074330-1-jpg.2840071/ "20211114_074330[1].jpg")
Just a monthly club trail day. A 200, two 100 Series, three 80 Series, a 4-Runner and a Tacoma.
![20211114_130924[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20211114_130924-1-jpg.2840072/ "20211114_130924[1].jpg")
My personal trail guide and Spirit Animal @VBRoamer ... he is 80 and still driving trails
. He led the group for a good chunk of the day.
![20211114_131249[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20211114_131249-1-jpg.2840073/ "20211114_131249[1].jpg")
![20211114_140438[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20211114_140438-1-jpg.2840074/ "20211114_140438[1].jpg")
![20211114_131306[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20211114_131306-1-jpg.2840075/ "20211114_131306[1].jpg")
Nothing too difficult, just a nice day of doing some mid-level trails.
Found some hiccups on the shakedown run ... tx case was popping out of gear when I would come off throttle hard. Used a bungee to hold it down and that worked fine, but not sure if the gears need to wear in a bit or it there is some kind of adjustment that can be made to the selector shaft? Also found that I ruined one of the bushings on the rear panhard. Wheel it, break it, fix or upgrade it ... wash, rinse, and repeat.
Not prime season in central PA, but still a nice drive to Rausch Creek.
Just a monthly club trail day. A 200, two 100 Series, three 80 Series, a 4-Runner and a Tacoma.
My personal trail guide and Spirit Animal @VBRoamer ... he is 80 and still driving trails
. He led the group for a good chunk of the day.Nothing too difficult, just a nice day of doing some mid-level trails.
What OMEs/Dobinsons did you go from/to? Why'd you make the change?After changing from ome to dobbs springs, the steering wheel was pointing roughly at 11 o'clock when going straight. So, undid the clamps on the drag link and the DS rotated easily, the PS required a pipe wrench and crescent to break free and rotate. Took about 1 complete turn to get the steering wheel to go from 11 o'clock to 12 o'clock. Rotate as per the picture to adjust the steering wheel clockwise.
cheers,
george.
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 4,475
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
^
I replaced the front springs/shocks and control arms. The fronts were ome850 and had the cheapo fox shocks and a 1.5" spacer on top of the coils. The rear was/is ome863 and radflo remote shocks. The ome was at least 20 years old, the fox I can't remember - likely 5 years based on how fast time flys.
The front is now dobs using their C97-144VT dual rate coils. I also went with King 2.5" remotes with adjuster (since one of my son's is an ME there and gets a discount and no 'production delays'... plus he built them up and tuned them for me). Also went with delta's 3" arms for caster etc. The dobs gave me about an 1" more lift versus the 850 and 1.5" spacers.
The front of my 80 has dual bats, s/c, arb bar, m12000, and a few other bits of steel. Also steel sliders. So a reasonable amount of weight distributed there and a bunch out if front of the axle.
So, the combination of the dobs and king makes for a much superior and supple suspension for of course quite a $$ outlay
I've not had issue with the ome on the rear, but the front end has always been somewhat harsh over some bumps and the shock damping was lacking - plenty of rocking when hitting bumps at an angle. Seems to me that since as driver/passenger we sit close to the front axle, any bump/harshness will be more noticeable versus something that happens 'behind' us some time later
cheers,
george.
I replaced the front springs/shocks and control arms. The fronts were ome850 and had the cheapo fox shocks and a 1.5" spacer on top of the coils. The rear was/is ome863 and radflo remote shocks. The ome was at least 20 years old, the fox I can't remember - likely 5 years based on how fast time flys.
The front is now dobs using their C97-144VT dual rate coils. I also went with King 2.5" remotes with adjuster (since one of my son's is an ME there and gets a discount and no 'production delays'... plus he built them up and tuned them for me). Also went with delta's 3" arms for caster etc. The dobs gave me about an 1" more lift versus the 850 and 1.5" spacers.
The front of my 80 has dual bats, s/c, arb bar, m12000, and a few other bits of steel. Also steel sliders. So a reasonable amount of weight distributed there and a bunch out if front of the axle.
So, the combination of the dobs and king makes for a much superior and supple suspension for of course quite a $$ outlay
I've not had issue with the ome on the rear, but the front end has always been somewhat harsh over some bumps and the shock damping was lacking - plenty of rocking when hitting bumps at an angle. Seems to me that since as driver/passenger we sit close to the front axle, any bump/harshness will be more noticeable versus something that happens 'behind' us some time later
cheers,
george.
Last edited:
This makes things look slightly more proper ... I've missed the dirt.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Finally had some time last night to figure out what I messed up in my front end on my last trip. The magnet gave a hint and then it was confirmed when I got the diff out.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on FlickrUntitled by Adam Tolman, on FlickrUntitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
Where you running the lockers when you grenaded that ring?Finally had some time last night to figure out what I messed up in my front end on my last trip. The magnet gave a hint and then it was confirmed when I got the diff out.
Finally had some time last night to figure out what I messed up in my front end on my last trip. The magnet gave a hint and then it was confirmed when I got the diff out.
Oooffff!
That is painful.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
No. Did not have either diff lock engaged. Center diff lock was on.
Finally got around to installing my new Delta Radius Arms. This would have been a 2 hour project but I ended up having a steel bushing press tool made, and had to reverse some of the notches from the caster plates that I installed about 10 years ago. Finding steel bushing presses is impossible right now, and I didn't want to bother with the aluminum ones from Slee as they are quick to deform, so @lelandEOD used his lathe skills to make a set out of some 2.5" round stock that I picked up. Good thing I grabbed a 6" piece as we didn't realize that the axle side and frame side bushings are different sizes, so two different press tools are needed.
It probably would have been ok to mount the new arms without reinforcing the steel below the front mounting hole, but it was a good excuse to practice some off hand and upside down welding.
It only took about 7 tons of force to pop out the old bushings. I replaced them a few years ago so I decided to reuse them. They slid right in the new arms. Most of the time spent on this project was waiting for primer/paint to dry. These arms are pretty well built and clear the HD tie rod with room to spare. The trail repaired OEM arm (broke on Rubicon, truck has not been driven since) actually still looked good and probably would have been fine long term...but not something to chance.
Did you get new radius arm mounts from Toyota or just add material.
After changing from ome to dobbs springs, the steering wheel was pointing roughly at 11 o'clock when going straight. So, undid the clamps on the drag link and the DS rotated easily, the PS required a pipe wrench and crescent to break free and rotate. Took about 1 complete turn to get the steering wheel to go from 11 o'clock to 12 o'clock. Rotate as per the picture to adjust the steering wheel clockwise.
cheers,
george.
My steering wheel is the same way, do you have to remove the link in the rear before adjust the front one.
BadReligion
SILVER Star
Just added some 3/16" mild steel. After the paint, they do almost look like new mounts.
